Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

Space Junk


10.
+1
1 votes

Supafly 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Chris Martin in 2001
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the last bolted route before the dihedral on the main wall. Begin on the large flat boulder and make some tough moves to reach the hueco. Take a rest then move left out to the face. Climb through sustained edges and pockets to the anchors. Pumpy.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
pockets (1) bouldery (1) classic (1) pumpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.32 stars (87 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (90 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Nov 12th, 2014

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 14th, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 14th, 2013

Submitted by: climb2core
Date: Oct 14th, 2011

Submitted by: Redpoint
Date: Mar 27th, 2010

Submitted by: Redpoint
Date: Mar 27th, 2010

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
Anonymous said on May 8th, 2003
FA Chris Martin
2
Anonymous said on May 30th, 2003
This is 12a like Baremetal Teen is 12a.
3
Anonymous said on January 22nd, 2005
yes it does seem harder than ethics police and budda hole for sure-both 11d/12a
4
Anonymous said on January 22nd, 2005
yes it does seem harder than ethics police and budda hole for sure-both 11d/12a
5
Wes said on January 29th, 2005
It is helpful to pre-hang a long draw on the 2nd bolt.
6
Green3 said on October 17th, 2005
incredibly fun route
7
Anonymous said on October 22nd, 2005
11c
8
Anonymous said on October 24th, 2005
11b
9
Anonymous said on February 11th, 2006
11a
10
Anonymous said on February 11th, 2006
10d
11
Anonymous said on March 12th, 2006
10b/c
12
Anonymous said on May 24th, 2006
pshhhh 9+
13
Tunica Intima said on November 19th, 2006
fun route should have three stars by the old ratings
14
MSMITH said on September 6th, 2007
Awesome route, can't wait to get back on it.
15
JR said on September 6th, 2007
MSMITH this is a shitty route but what else is there to warm up on.
16
Anonymous said on September 20th, 2007
thats not a picture of supafly
17
MSMITH said on December 10th, 2007
Whateva, we don't all climb 13
18
SCIN said on December 6th, 2009
Took it down to 5.12a
19
pawilkes said on March 11th, 2010
I don't understand how this thing stayed at 12b so long. it feels kinda soft for 12a...
20
climb2core said on February 14th, 2011
This is 12a Pawilkes. You must just be getting stronger. Similar to, but a little harder than Wildfire IMO.
21
Rollo said on March 6th, 2011
this thing is twice as long as wildfire.
22
agdenm2 said on March 6th, 2011
wildfire is shorter, but the moves on it are harder individually for sure. supafly has almost no hard moves in comparison, you just have to pull on more medium holds for longer
23
climb2core said on March 7th, 2011
Longer, but really 2 climbs with the hueco that you can take a nap in. I was comparing the second part of the climb to Wildfire and I thought it was similar with a Redpoint crux going to the chains.
24
Rusty said on November 2nd, 2015
The hanger on the 5th bolt was spinning a bit last weekend - maybe someone smart enough to have a wrench with them can tighten it. Cool climb, wasn't expecting the redpoint crux at the chains. Get it back on the rest at the last bolt before heading up.
25
fosterdi said on April 18th, 2016
spinner on 4th? bolt. Somewhere in the middle
26
Anonymous said on May 31st, 2017
5th bolt loose
27
jkpugel said on June 1st, 2017
The hanger is spinning, the bolt looked alright, but is corroded so when we tried to tighten it down it would not move. Some of that WD40 from Dirty Smelly Hippie would've helped but I donated all mine to the trolls. Next time I'm out I'll try again, but if someone's in the area soon you can give it a go. The 6th feels solid but the sleeve is exposed partially so this route could definitely use some love. I'd be willing to donate some time and money to a rebolt if someone with the tools is up for it.
28
climb2core said on June 1st, 2017
Scheduled for an upgrade to glue ins on Saturday, June 10th during our 3rd Rebolt The Red. We need volunteers to help and could always use donations to help cover costs. You can find more info on the RRG FGI facebook page. Thanks for trying to tighten them down! Ian
29
DrRockso said on September 21st, 2017
Bolts 5 and 6 were replaced reusing the same holes on the Annual Rebolt the Red day 2017. The rest of the bolts looked solid. Thanks Fixed Gear Initiative.