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Buddha Hole

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus

1 votes

Herd Mentality 5.12c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Rob McFall
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the crimpfest just right of Buddha Hole. Boulder up to a sit down rest in a large hueco then head out left and up through crimps to the anchors.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
bouldery (1) contrived (1) steep (1) technical (1) fun (1)
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Quality Consensus

4.16 stars (49 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12c (48 votes)

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Submitted by: Redpoint
Date: Mar 27th, 2010

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005


Anonymous said on May 8th, 2003
FA Rob McFall
Horatio Felacio said on May 18th, 2003
you're not allowed to use the gargantuan hueco on the route. SCEC will be after your ass.
Power2U said on October 25th, 2004
If you like crimping this one is for you... super sustained throught the middle 25 feet or so.
Roentgen Ray said on November 1st, 2004
If the gargantuan hueco is off limits, then why did the route maker put it there?
rhunt said on November 16th, 2004
Best route of the wall!!
Gaar said on January 24th, 2005
Holy Shit this thing is Crimpy!!!!
Wes said on April 28th, 2005
Very cool for sure. Great flow for the middle part.
eroktix said on September 17th, 2005
flashed it, cool route. 12c for sure
eroktix said on September 17th, 2005
flashed it, cool route. 12c for sure
ray said on October 23rd, 2005
Favorite line on the wall. Awesome flow as Wes said.
rdpoints said on March 22nd, 2006
Yeah, good solid 12c.....definitely harder than BEHJ
Yasmeen said on April 6th, 2009
I might be more paranoid than I should be, but one of the anchor biners looked worn through about halfway, so I moved them both up and lowered through the chains to clean. I didn't have any leavers with me today, but I'll bring some with me next time I'm at Solar.
Cleveland said on April 20th, 2011
Does anyone know if the name of this route comes from Frederick Nitche's, The Gay Science?
climb2core said on February 6th, 2012
Does anyone know if the 2nd hueco was not intended to be used by FA? Does using change the grade?
pawilkes said on February 8th, 2012
from what I've been told the FA did not use the second hueco. going into the hueco is kinda tough and clipping the draw from there is weird. there is a good rest hold on the direct/original route just past the point where you'd go over to the hueco.
dustonian said on February 8th, 2012
fruity rules belong in the gym... if you were climbing this route onsight, it would be plain stupid to skip a no-hands rest
climb2core said on February 8th, 2012
Getting in/out of the second hueco didn't seem any more awkward or off route than many other climbs with hueco's that I have climbed. But, it sounds like it would drop the grade if the FA graded it 12c without the hueco, much as Paradise Lost was 13b without that rest. I think this route should just be called 12b then because there is a 12b way to climb it. I agree with Dustin, it seems more contrived to pretend that a huge no hands hueco is not 3 feet from the line the climb takes.
dustonian said on February 8th, 2012
Bush-league Sanka shit, laughable man!!
Anonymous said on February 9th, 2012
This route would not even be solid at 12a if you use the second hueco, just a couple of balancy crimp moves leading into a giant no hands that skips the only moderately challenging move on the route. Which, besides being challenging is the only fun move on the route (big move off sloper rail to good incut left hand crimp). HEY GUESS WHAT CLIMB2CORE AND DUSTONIAN, sport climbing is contrived. And if you use that 2nd hueco i suggest posting an fa and calling it bitch mentality. Also climb2core, or ian or whatever the fuck your name is, you need to seriously chillthe fuck out. The way you so quickly snapped at andrew in the forum regarding training is unacceptable. The way you call him stagnant and refer to him as mediocre and not pushing standards in climbing (13b comment) just reveals to everyone the truth which we all have known since u registered that stupid name (climb2core). YOU ARE AN ASSHOLE. so stop worrying about which climbs you are gonna send and how u are gonna send them. Start worrying about the unacceptable manner in which you conduct yourself on this forum. Also, you and your wife/girlfriend are ugly, inconsiderate people! MY TWO CENTS
Anonymous said on February 9th, 2012
dustonian said on February 9th, 2012
my granny aint no liar or no thief so shut up and i say u aint no better so yea and no ones perfect or aint got a perfect family....NO ONE DOES AND U DONT EITHER SO SHUTUP AND PUT UR REAL NAME UNLIKE A CHICKEN OK!!! THANKS AND U AINT NO BETTER THAN ANY1 NORE IS UR FAMILY SO SHUT THE F*** UP [email protected]!!!
climb2core said on February 9th, 2012
Anonymous, thanks for your insightful comments. Seems you have me at a disadvantage though... You know all there is to know about me, and I don't even know your name. If you ever decide to grow a set or run across me at a crag, make sure to introduce yourself.
tbwilsonky said on February 9th, 2012
this year promises to have the best fights. ever. i got winner.
ThickCable said on February 9th, 2012
man people sure do get mad on these forums. i find having sex frequently drastically reduces my internet rage!