Herd Mentality

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

Supafly


9.
+1
1 votes

Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus 5.12b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Hugh Loeffler
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route lies just right of Herd Mentality and just before the last bolted line on the wall. Boulder up to the large hueco and take a breather. Crank out over the top of the hueco and stretch for the next bolt. Climb through sustained pockets and crimps to reach a point where you move left. Edge left and take on the more overhanging headwall to the anchors.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.48 stars (60 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (73 votes)

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Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 14th, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 14th, 2013

Submitted by: Artsay
Date: Jan 4th, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
the lurkist said on May 2nd, 2003
yeah, I did. What about it motha fucka?
2
Anonymous said on May 5th, 2003
That ain't shit compared to 5.15 buddy. You have a long way to go.
3
allah said on August 11th, 2003
This Picture is for the Wrong Route, the pictuer is of the route to the left
4
Power2U said on November 10th, 2003
This is my favorite route at this wall.
5
rdpoints said on March 21st, 2006
Route has some suststained crimps......damn! Great route! I think a bunch harder than than Herd M. Anyone else think so??
6
rhunt said on March 21st, 2006
To me Herd M seemed a little more sustained...at least to the hueco. Both really great routes, my favorites on that wall!
7
rdpoints said on March 21st, 2006
Shit, you're right, I mixed up the names.......Herd M. is the one I did.....definitely harder than BEHJ.
8
chouca said on October 26th, 2006
bouldery start past the first 2 bolts. Good rest in the big hueco and than beautiful sustained climbing on small edges and pockets. It felt easy compared to other 12c's I've tried.
9
Anonymous said on January 11th, 2007
umm, sorry to whomever is projecting blue eyed honkey jesus, cause today i ripped the left crimp just above the first bolt...oops, now it is just a little bit harder, you can still get one pad of two or three fingers above where the crimp was...but it is a little harder to thow for the big right for the verticly chanlenged.
10
Yasmeen said on March 8th, 2009
You don't need that left hand crimp if you use Kenny's magic right hand sidepull beta. I <3 not having to heel hook and throw to that next hold.
11
SCIN said on December 5th, 2009
Took it down to 5.12b
12
dustonian said on June 19th, 2011
beautiful route, lurk
13
said on June 20th, 2011
Why is this rated 12b when the Consensus says 12c.....just wondering....
14
dustonian said on June 20th, 2011
Because Ray is good at face climbing. It would be pretty soft at 12c. What did grandmaster Lurkist rate it?
15
said on June 20th, 2011
I agree with the 12b rating.....but i was just wondering
16
dustonian said on June 20th, 2011
Another thing, most people tend to vote whatever the "official" rating is on this site, and I think in the case of this route the majority of people voted before Ray decided to call it 12b. Anyway... this thing is a clear case of 12b/c!
17
Brentucky said on June 2nd, 2013
This climb was one of the most fun routes I have done in a while. Completely cool all the way up! I agree with Dustin that this is right on the verge of 12b/c. I'd give Herd b and this c, but I guess I suck more at pumpy climbs.
18
StepLEFTskyline said on November 13th, 2016
Im surprised dustin is calling this thing b/c. Maybe you werent such a sandbagger back then! haha Felt like a soft 12b and the one to left felt midrange 12b.