COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Young Jedi

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Dark Side

Count Dooku

1 votes

Grippy Green 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Neal Strickland in 2000
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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As you near the wall from the approach trail,head right and this slab route is the first route on the wall. Boulder up a flake for a few bolts then continue up the slab to a break. Climb steeper rock past a bolt to the anchors.
Moves: Slab
Descent: Chain Anchor
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
bouldery (1) technical (1)
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Quality Consensus

4.42 stars (24 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (19 votes)

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Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}


ray said on September 13th, 2003
I accidentally selected this route for my spray list.
ender_xx said on June 23rd, 2004
so delete it...
Scaife said on November 30th, 2004
If you like crimpy bolt to bolt boulder problems, then this is your route!
jonnyp63 said on April 2nd, 2007
def a fun route
mike_anderson said on May 18th, 2009
Stick clipping the 2nd bolt might be a good idea if you're not solid on insecure smears.
THB said on September 24th, 2009
awesome route! loved it!
Travlinman said on November 29th, 2011
hardest 12a i have ever been on. I know its a stylistic thing, but it kicked me in the jimi for real. Nasty little route, but aesthetically pleasing. Very cool start. Must climb smarter!
Saxman said on March 29th, 2012
Stout 12a.
krampus said on June 3rd, 2013
This just became my favorite 12a. Great consistency on solid rock
Willy said on November 19th, 2014
Bottom is tricky but ultimately not too tough. Several mini cruxes after that. Super fun climb!!
Anonymous said on November 2nd, 2020
Try to name a better vert face climb in the red of the same ball park grade. I’m struggling to come up with any thing close to this good. I keep think lines like swahili slang or soul ram, but they are all mid-range 12s. Ratnips
Cromper said on November 2nd, 2020
Hakuna Matata
climb2core said on November 2nd, 2020
Anonymous said on November 2nd, 2020
Golden Shower
Anonymous said on November 2nd, 2020
The Gift
Anonymous said on November 2nd, 2020
Litmus Test
Anonymous said on November 2nd, 2020
Anonymous said on November 2nd, 2020
Sandy's Ass Cherry
Anonymous said on November 3rd, 2020
The infidel
Anonymous said on November 3rd, 2020
That’s funny Cromper, that was the one line i kept think of too. I for sure thought of the gift, but like golden shower it gets harder in the steeps. I also thought of the 11+ but left them out cause their all a bit soft compared to the start of the grippy, and there’s a lot of ‘em. Haven’t had the pleasure on litmus test, but it looks real nice in the pic, psyched to try it. As for sandy’s ass cherry, i vote that’s what we change ondra’s mr sandy to at the lode! Rat-baby
Anonymous said on November 3rd, 2020
If your wondering why I don’t log in, its not cause I’m lazy, its because if you log in then ray knows where you are and he will travel through the ether at night and alien probe your orifices. Other perverts like the lurkest, and Horacio help him when to many people are logged on.
Anonymous said on November 3rd, 2020
Oh, that last one was me. The rat
Cromper said on November 3rd, 2020
I heard ray works for the colluding super rich liberal doctors who are making a new Covid strain to release this winter once Trump wins.
Cromper said on November 3rd, 2020
They deliver the new strain through emails too. Where’s the server Ray!!
Anonymous said on November 3rd, 2020
WHERE are the Servers?????
dustonian said on November 3rd, 2020
Check out Totoro too, might even be easier than the crux of this one haha
ray said on November 4th, 2020
Rat and Cromper, there’s a package coming for you and you cannot hide. I know where your orifice lives.
Anonymous said on November 5th, 2020
I planned for it ray. I keep the gimp, Horatio Felacio, chained up to “entertain” you while i make a run for it.
Anonymous said on November 5th, 2020
I shoulda signed that last one, but you know all about team clown show. Rat-nuts. Don’t get slobbery thinkin about the O.G. Rat nuts, we all know you liked ‘em.
Anonymous said on November 5th, 2020
That last one was for you ray. I ever tell you about the chick that was so impressed by the o.g. Rat nuts, i heard her telling her boyfriend that he had bigger jewels then he did. That poor bastard. Someone was always holding his balls, but it seemed to always be a guy. Well, it always seemed to be Horacio.