COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.


This route is located in the Southern Region at The Dark Side

American Dream

0 votes

Big Burley 5.13b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Dave Hume
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route lies just right of Shanghai and is the third route from the right on the ramp. Power through pumpy moves to a boulder problem finish.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC

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Quality Consensus

3.83 stars (6 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13b (4 votes)

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Submitted by: edwinteran
Date: Oct 6th, 2013

Submitted by: edwinteran
Date: Oct 6th, 2013


allah said on May 31st, 2003
Im almost posative that Dave Hume got the FA on this, about 2 years ago
512OW said on September 23rd, 2010
Not big or burley, but definitely ultra super mega sharp. Sharpest on the wall times 20. Ouch. Cool moves on razor blade pockets.
allah said on September 23rd, 2010
The only thing that was sharp about this route was the resting pockets before the finishing boulder problem, unless maybe you have vagina skin!
512OW said on May 16th, 2012
After revisiting with fresh skin, the sharpness wasn't so bad, and is well worth it for the finish, which might be the best on the wall
Anonymous said on October 9th, 2013
Visitor to the area. Watched a complete tw*t kill a bat on this route just so he could power scream while dogging his way up this route. Is it really worth killing an endangered species to show off to your girlfriend? Not impressed at all at this behaviour that I felt the need to rant.
Anonymous said on October 9th, 2013
Just come down from the the route completely battered but it was ok as my echo sensors were firing on all guns dude anyway thought it was piss and only needed a power squeal
Anonymous said on October 11th, 2013
The bat was not killed, simply removed from the hold (also being the largest resting jug on the route). The little guy flew off later in the day. Further, though many species of bats are extinct, this particular bat was the 'Little Brown Myotis' (myotis lucifugus). An extremely common bat in this area and not even considered 'threatened' never mind endangered. Fact check before you speak Mr. Visitor, especially when you are speaking about an area which you are after all visiting. Ranting on the net is swell, perhaps next time bring your grievances to light at the time of the supposed infraction like a real man. Thanks for visiting.
pumpout2004 said on June 1st, 2014