The Force

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Dark Side

Elephant Man


23.
+0
0 votes

Mind Meld 5.12d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Hugh Loeffler
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route begins just right of The Force. Boulder up through spock fingered pockets, make a difficult third clip, then continue climbing. Hang on before the anchors.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.48 stars (21 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12d (16 votes)

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Comments

1
Power2U said on October 27th, 2004
Rad line up the center of the wall... solid 12D+ a little sharp, but super fun!
2
wolverine said on March 28th, 2005
This route is harder than The Force. I'd give it 3 out of 5 stars. It lacks memorable moves/features/ character, just a line of quickdraws up a steep wall. It's also sharp.
3
ashtray said on October 15th, 2007
This route was bad ass. a must do for the darkside connoisseur. The moves aren't as hard as the force (to the left) and e-man(to the right), but they are hard enough to be very entertaining. Plus there is a longer continuous bit than those routes, and is definitely more sporty. Even though H. Loeffler is a huge jerk, he does bolt a good line and this is one of his best.
4
chriss said on March 23rd, 2009
Great continuous movement for the first five bolts. The third bolt should be lowered, or the second raised. As is, a sketchy third clip with the potential for a bad fall.
5
Meadows said on April 23rd, 2009
Great line and I think the 3rd bolt is just fine. It was the 5th one that gave me fits because it's so far away. Wicked sharp! I sliced my finger open. It's a joke that on the same wall, Shanghai is rated the same as this.
6
512OW said on April 23rd, 2009
Meadows, is this subtle spray??? Notice the "it WAS the 5th one that gave me fits...". Have you been taking classes from Andrew?
7
Meadows said on April 24th, 2009
That one gave me trouble even after hanging on the first 4 bolts. Sorry, from now on I'll emulate you: LOOK AT ME!!! I sent this and it's probably 12b at most.
8
Meadows said on April 24th, 2009
Oops ... sorry, that's actually what i do.
9
pigsteak said on April 25th, 2009
ya got it wrong meadows..let me help..it is 12b onsight, but if done on gear probably 11a. or if team short bus, after 17 days straight of endurance tutelage under their esteemed coach, sends it, it is only 10c and I send em back to the social scene at club climbing gym....so meadows, quit pussing around on these non inspiring lines, and yo, check out my latest promo vid. peace. (btw, kris and ray, you two chumps are getting waaay to old to keep trying so hard. please borrow my drill more on the weekends, and for god's sake, quit climbing and making other old farts like myself feel so useless.)
10
Meadows said on April 26th, 2009
Pigsteak, every time I see you, you're fit and trim and wrinkle free. I think that insecure teenage girl's voice in your head has taken over.
11
512OW said on April 27th, 2009
Piggie, you've drilled all the choss in the Red. Theres none left for me to develop... And Meadows... I KNOW I spray. I live for it. I just expected more from you...
12
Meadows said on April 27th, 2009
Apparently you missed comment #2.
13
512OW said on April 27th, 2009
Shit, you're right. Not only do I suck at spray, subtle spray, and lack of spray, I also suck at reading spray. Shit. Shit.
14
pigsteak said on April 27th, 2009
I am currently drilling a steep cliff with 8-10 lines on it...holler if you want to quit climbing and start trail work:)
15
512OW said on September 23rd, 2010
Great route, bad warmup. Better than the Force... doesn't have the slimy rests. 3rd bolt is neither scary nor hard to clip, though it would suck to fall there. There are a bunch of good pockets nearby to choose from.
16
pumpout2004 said on March 5th, 2013
Given the recent verbal infraction by the POTUS regarding the inadvertent mixing of two disparate genres of sci-fi works, I posit that this route name must be changed.