Erik's Second 5.6

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

Red Shift


29.
+1
1 votes

Smoothie Nut 5.10b (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Blake Bowling, Jason Tackett
Length: 60ft
Gear: Small nuts and Aliens (report bad anchors)

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This route ascends the striking, thin, left-facing dihedral just 15 feet right of Liken the Lichen.
Moves: Fingers
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
classic (1) adventerous (1) fun (1) dihedral (1) beautiful (1) shady (1) fingers (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.13 stars (24 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (25 votes)

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Comments

1
Johnny said on July 15th, 2003
I thought Blake did this route.
2
Johnny said on August 11th, 2003
10d - 11a?
3
SCIN said on November 1st, 2003
I thought this route was harder than 5.10b on lead. It's one of those routes where you feel like you're going to fall out of the dihedral the whole time but for some reason you don't.
4
climberbootyman said on April 15th, 2004
Its called Smoothy Nut 5.10b
5
rockman said on August 28th, 2004
Climberbootyman is correct. Smooty Nut is the name and I think it felt 10b mabey 10c. FA was Blake Bowling and Jason Tackett
6
rockman said on August 28th, 2004
Climberbootyman is correct. Smooty Nut is the name and I think it felt 10b mabey 10c. FA was Blake Bowling and Jason Tackett
7
Anonymous said on April 14th, 2006
Blake and Jason were climbing patterners in college
8
Anonymous said on April 14th, 2006
Blake and Jason were climbing patterners in college
9
SCIN said on April 14th, 2006
Is that the same thing as a pattern maker?
10
SCIN said on April 14th, 2006
Is that the same thing as a pattern maker?
11
Anonymous said on April 14th, 2006
It's Smoothy Nut and I hope everyone likes it. Feels like you're going to fall off while climbing the dihedral. Thanks to the magical smoothy nut, no one does. ---Jason Tackett
12
512OW said on September 17th, 2006
I agree with 10b. Climbs like a flared chimney. Good stuff, and the best belay ledge in the Red.
13
woman said on September 17th, 2006
Pretty belay ledge, and I love the magic smoothy nut!!!
14
climbhigh said on September 28th, 2006
i thought it was pretty tricky and pretty much in your face and akward the whole time. if its 10b almost EVERY move is 10b. i wouldnt want to be a new trad leader or just getting into 10s and hop on it. i thought afterburner felt easier. very fun route and should be on everyones to do list.
15
ahab said on December 15th, 2008
no way it's harder than afterburner. you can actually get some good rests on this one. awesome route.
16
der uber said on July 20th, 2009
Freaking awesome.
17
krampus said on July 20th, 2009
first time my little nuts were a benefit to my climbing. Great rout
18
dustonian said on October 8th, 2009
Fun corner! A bit harder than 10b, plus the crux moves are kind of hard to protect except with tiny cams. Watch out for the family of flying squirrels living in the jug in the beginning of the corner!!
19
Jeff said on May 8th, 2011
Great route! Felt much more confident on 2nd run.
20
kman154 said on February 25th, 2013
A sweet route indeed. Wish the finish was better.
21
Rx2Climb said on November 13th, 2016
Awesome Route! Thanks to Taurusclimber for leading this thing and letting me TR. = )
22
taurusclimber said on November 15th, 2016
Anytime. Great route, a little bit of everything.
23
nitrousstone said on November 9th, 2017
I didn't place any smoothie nuts on this guy, but compared to brontosaurus or Oberon this thing is definitely 10+