COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.


This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

Broken Chicken Wing

1 votes

Rebar 5.11a (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Josh Thurston, Scott Lappin in 2002
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Just right of Chester Fried Chicken you'll see two obvious cracks splitting the face. This route ascends the left of the two cracks. Begin by climbing Broken Chicken Wing then step left when the crack splits into two.
Moves: Fingers
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC

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Quality Consensus

4.69 stars (35 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (29 votes)

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Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Apr 9th, 2015

Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Mar 10th, 2015

Submitted by: goodguy
Date: Apr 25th, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005


J-Rock said on July 28th, 2004
It is probably best to rappel from the anchor. I was lowered off and the rope was cut more than half-way through the core. Only a few strands were holding me.
Anonymous said on February 25th, 2005
Mega Classic!
Sunshine said on February 6th, 2006
I will fix these anchors!
Anonymous said on February 21st, 2006
Does the FA know you intend to "Fix" the anchors?
goodguy said on February 28th, 2006
So have the anchors been "Fixed" yet?
goodguy said on April 27th, 2006
I was just on this again on 4-22 and I gotta say that having the anchors moved and the large boulder up top cleaned off really make this route much more user friendly, especially for the second. Thank you Sunshine.
2tall said on May 3rd, 2006
This route smoked me, scratch that, slayed me! Straight up! On top rope! Then when I get to the ground Josh is all, "So I think its more like 10c, feels too easy for an 11." First off, you're crazy. Second, you are the worst person to climb with because you're either ripping ass while I'm tying to pull a crux move or you're saying shit like the above after I just got worked. Just work on your motivational skills and plug your poop chute and we'll be cool.
512OW said on September 17th, 2006
As of today, a very nice little family of wasps have decided to take up residence in the crux section. If you plan to climb it, bring gifts.
dustonian said on October 8th, 2009
Stellar route! Too bad about the rest near the top or it would be a bit more sustained.
Becca said on November 7th, 2009
Mega classic for the area! Technical jamming and small foot smears. Great pro!
jrathfon said on November 16th, 2009
simply awesome! i loooove finger cracks. this thing eats green aliens and smaller gear. must get this clean on lead, but man the moves are good.
pkananen said on March 28th, 2010
unless you have girlish hands, don't expect to get as many solid fingerlocks as you'd like.
Cromper said on May 11th, 2012
My god what an amazing climb! Super splitter finger crack. Make sure to bring a hand sized piece for the pod in the center.
Anonymous said on May 11th, 2012
I remember when this thing first went up. So cool to see everyone still likes it!
Willy said on April 8th, 2013
Burly! Getting slapped around by this thing is too much fun