Rebar

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

Green Tea


47.
+0
0 votes

Broken Chicken Wing 5.9+ (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Josh Thurston, Scott Lappin in 2002
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Classic. This route ascends the left angling hand crack just right of Rebar. Climb hands and fingers to a nice rest then tackle the last few feet for an exposed clipping stance.
Moves: Fingers
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
fists (1) hands (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.41 stars (73 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9+ (63 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Mar 27th, 2012

Submitted by: ahab
Date: Aug 14th, 2008

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Wes said on August 8th, 2003
Pretty cool route, maybe a bit tough for 5.9? Watch out for wasps near the top.
2
J-Rock said on October 13th, 2004
Clean, classic and aesthetic!
3
Josephine said on October 28th, 2007
this was a super fun climb on TR! may be a bit heady to lead, though.
4
Brentucky said on November 11th, 2007
i've done less than 30 trad climbs to date, and all the ones I have done I've TR'd. regardless, this is my current favorite. if you have the option get on it!!!
5
JR said on November 13th, 2007
Brentucky this route comment sounded more like a confession. I accept your confession and you are hereby absolved of your toproping sins. Go forth unto the world and lead my friend.....LEAD. p.s. This route and the Beeneling are delicious.
6
michaelarmand said on May 18th, 2009
Great layback climbing, loved it.
7
rjackson said on May 31st, 2009
Can't rely on a single skill set for this one... Great climb!
8
caribe said on October 9th, 2009
This thing made my day last Saturday.
9
Jeff said on October 9th, 2009
Fun route eh Art?
10
woman said on October 9th, 2009
It must be better than Pint :)
11
jrathfon said on November 16th, 2009
awesome, great moves, lots of different things going on, eats gear. sadly, not a good warmup for rebar... i thought it was a touch soft for 5.9, but i wouldnt give it a 9-, think about crack attack or no return...
12
jrathfon said on November 24th, 2009
fingers? try rattly hands that you lay back then bomber hand jams, followed by more layback.
13
deamicl said on March 21st, 2011
Not sure how this got 5 stars and Rebar only 4. A switch of star rating is necessary.
14
cinciclimber2 said on February 19th, 2012
Had a blast on this thing! Climbed it onsight and was only my fifth or sixth lead. A little tricky getting gear in the bottom where you don't have a whole lot for feet. First half is fun pumpy laybacking to a bomber arm bar rest. From there its a cakewalk to the top
15
toad857 said on February 21st, 2012
slick holds!!
16
chandler said on August 18th, 2013
This and 4 routes to its left stayed dry in downpour.
17
johnwesely said on July 25th, 2014
Where on earth would you layback on this thing? Perfect jams the entire way.
18
Anonymous said on July 26th, 2014
"Where would you layback this thing?" Uhhh the entire route if thats the kinda thing you are into.
19
nitrousstone said on April 3rd, 2017
sweet climb! agree its not quite as hard as 9+. I think autumn may even be about has hard. great jams and an awesome finish. also a great way to check out rebar if you climb to the ledge.