Stone Pipe

This route is located in the Southern Region at Bob Marley Crag

Slampiece BAM!

0 votes

Beeper 5.11d (Sport)

First Ascent: Keith Moll
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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About 20 feet right of Dogleg is an arete with a high dihedral. Begin on the large boulders near its base. Grab the arete and follow it over soft rock and up into a thin crack. Continue up the crack to the anchors. Caution! Rock turns to crap up high.
Descent: Rap from anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
scary (1)
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Quality Consensus

2 stars (1 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (2 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005


One-Fall said on September 28th, 2005
Alot of holds have broken off from the start of this climb.
Green3 said on November 12th, 2007
still goes... probably 12a/b with a definite crux now. Definitely an R rated climb up top on some easier moves. Clean on TR and use your partner's rope if you can. Not really sure I'd recommend the route to anyone though, probably depends on how I felt about them.
One-Fall said on February 7th, 2011
Went specifically to try this route today, and found it red tagged. Is it closed because bolting is not safe? I'm sure there is a good explanation.
JR said on February 7th, 2011
Andrew is bolting a variation that starts on Beeper.
One-Fall said on February 7th, 2011
Figured there was an explanation. Thanks JR.
Andrew said on February 9th, 2011
Sorry about that Lee. The red tag isn't actually on Beepers bolts but the first bolt on the variation. Either way both routes kind of suck, but my variation is definitely better, but it is not that hard to bolt a route that is better than Beeper. Ray said that I shouldn't be so pessimistic, but lord knows he has never found rock he doesn't like. So I hope yall like the variation, as it may be better than I think it is.
pawilkes said on March 6th, 2011
the first three bolts of this are pretty fun although a couple holds are pretty fragile. going from three to four is tough (12b?) and four to five is kinda tough. the top dihedral is run out w/ a ledge below you'll hit if you mess it up. retrobolting and a chisel would make this route worth climbing
symardila said on March 22nd, 2012
Top dihedral will stay wet for couple days after rain. I'd say it's worth trying but it felt harder that 11d.