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Granny Panties

This route is located in the Southern Region at Bob Marley Crag

Mas Choss


12.
+0
0 votes

Tony's Happy Christmas Crack 5.8 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Jack Hume, Tony Tramontin, Steve McFarland, Gene Hume, David Hume
Length: 80ft
Gear: standard rack (report bad anchors)

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Thirty feet right from the previous route is an obvious dihedral with a handcrack. Climb the crack to a set of anchors, or continue steeply to some higher shuts.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap from anchors or higher cold shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.78 stars (36 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (29 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: Cromper
Date: Dec 8th, 2020

Submitted by: Cromper
Date: Dec 8th, 2020

Submitted by: Cromper
Date: Dec 8th, 2020

Submitted by: ferris
Date: Jun 27th, 2013

Submitted by: Willy
Date: May 14th, 2012

Submitted by: Willy
Date: May 14th, 2012

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
vic said on October 22nd, 2003
When the climber becomes 2/3 of the way up, grab a camera: You will get great photo ops.
2
Gaar said on June 18th, 2005
Really good route, first pitch is more overhung then you think!
3
Wes said on July 3rd, 2006
Maybe the best route of it's grade in the red? Short but very cool. Worth the walk up to the cliff.
4
anticlmber said on November 6th, 2007
best of the grade??? i guess. good route but not the best.
5
DriskellHR said on January 12th, 2008
Great route classic crack climbing
6
Cromper said on October 17th, 2011
Super fun! If only it went on for another 60 ft...
7
dnietosi said on April 23rd, 2012
Has anyone done the second pitch? Grade? Stars? I would like to try having some idea first :)
8
DrRockso said on November 18th, 2013
Fun route! The extension didn't look very appealing.
9
DrRockso said on September 24th, 2015
New, community funded, SS glue-ins as of August 30th, 2015.
10
Anonymous said on November 19th, 2015
Did anyone manage to get out my .4 c3?
11
Dougclymz said on October 17th, 2017
Hand jammin at its finest. Got my left hand stuck thumbs down about 2/3 up. Thought I was gonna have to leave it. Lol! This climb is just around the corner from Drive By Crag. We did it just as the light was fading...perfect end to the day!
12
Mdjagg said on October 18th, 2020
The extension is really fun. Thought 10d/11a. Gear beta in MP tick list if interested. First time I've had to heel hook above my head to get a piece in. The FA should come up with a name, because this is just as good as the first half. Easily done as one pitch.
13
Mdjagg said on October 18th, 2020
Or just add a page for the extension.
14
Anonymous said on October 18th, 2020
Mdjaggy turned into a hardcore trad daddy LMAO
15
Mdjagg said on October 19th, 2020
I take it back. After climbing Rebar, this extension feels like a 10c, unless Rebar is secretly an 11c.
16
Mdjagg said on December 7th, 2020
Anyone claim to have been up the extension on this one before me? I assumed one of you had done it, but maybe not. Happy to have the FA "unknown", but just curious if a non Anon has claimed getting to the top in the past.
17
Anonymous said on December 7th, 2020
You definitely got the FA.
18
Anonymous said on December 7th, 2020
Dave Hume was too weak to climb it and backed off the top and put the anchors where they are now, you totally got the FA bro.. He then went back and ra bolted the shuts up top so that one day 2 decades later someone could come back and get the mythical FA
19
Anonymous said on December 7th, 2020
Dude...anchors mean that it's been climbed before...
20
Anonymous said on December 7th, 2020
The top anchor is for the sport line.
21
Anonymous said on December 7th, 2020
COME ON GUYS GIVE MJDAGGG THE CREDUT HE DESSIRVES FOR THIS VISOINAIRY LINE!!!
22
Mdjagg said on December 7th, 2020
I dont want anything, just curious. The description makes it sound like the upper half was an afterthought, and thought that maybe no one had ever tried it. More people should. Great pro and some really cool crux beta.
23
Cromper said on December 8th, 2020
I tried to add an old Bronaugh book description but it turned into a massive photo, oh well
24
Mdjagg said on December 8th, 2020
Still pretty much the same description, which to me seems like a 'well, keep going if you want' type of vibe. To me it just seems odd because it's definitely not 5.8 climbing to the top. If it was, there wouldn't be any reason to even ask. Or, if Mas Choss (anchor) wasn't established before Christmas Crack, I wouldn't question it either. Im sure it's been done, just curious why an FA party of hard men wouldn't add details about the harder, cooler climbing above. Maybe one of them will add to the comments at some point to clarify.
25
Mdjagg said on December 8th, 2020
Ahh, I missed the 1994 date from your post, Cromper. Thanks for posting the photo. Alright, Xmas Crack was first. Now to figure out if Dave and Co. thought this was 5.8 to the top? Sandbaggers!
26
Anonymous said on December 8th, 2020
"Hard men" don't feel the neurotic compulsion to lay down heavy spray about everything they do
27
Mdjagg said on December 8th, 2020
If discovering the history of a cool route is neurotic, turn on some Neurosis and crank it to 11. If you dont like discussions about climbing on this here climbing website, id suggest not visiting anymore. Alternatively, you could always just anonymously complain about someone putting up new routes for you, neurotiicly, like the moment it's published. Projection at its finest.
28
Anonymous said on December 8th, 2020
Jesus dude do you actually still believe you put up routes "for the people"?! About time to grow up and stop stroking yourself off in public like this lol
29
Anonymous said on December 8th, 2020
Wow, it’s almost 2021, and people are still getting their jollies knocking Mdjagg? So original.
30
Andrew said on December 11th, 2020
A long time back I asked Bronaugh about the top. He said he did it but didn’t recommend it. That tells me a lot.
31
Anonymous said on December 12th, 2020
comment 29 if by mdjagg lmao
32
Mdjagg said on December 12th, 2020
No way. You hacks are way too much fun. As far as John not liking the extension, don't know what to say, it's a lot of fun. Everyone likes different stuff
33
Anonymous said on December 12th, 2020
Yeah you like garbage