Velvet

This route is located in the Southern Region at Bob Marley Crag

Reticent


23.
+0
0 votes

Tacit 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard in 1997
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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The next route is five feet right of the previous route and has a similar description. Begin near a crack above a boulder.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.92 stars (60 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (54 votes)

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Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Apr 8th, 2015

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Nov 21st, 2009

Submitted by: Wes
Date: Jun 25th, 2006

Submitted by: Wes
Date: Jun 25th, 2006

Comments

1
Power2U said on April 18th, 2005
Looks like choss climbs great!
2
Wes said on June 14th, 2006
Pretty cool. Better then it looks for sure. Might want to unclip 1st bolt after you clip the 2nd, to avoid pulling belayer through the draw.
3
Anonymous said on August 12th, 2006
or you could just not fall
4
Wolf said on June 9th, 2008
Great Route. Awesome heel-toe. Crux bolt is rusty and spinning.
5
pawilkes said on April 17th, 2009
the crux bolt (5th?) is pretty sketchy. the nut is loose and the bolt hole has elongated so that you can see it. just thought i'd make people aware.
6
dssclimb said on August 2nd, 2009
New bolts top to bottom as of 8/1/09
7
tbwilsonky said on September 22nd, 2010
amazingly fun climbing from the 4th bolt to the chains.
8
dnietosi said on April 25th, 2011
This route is super fun, very cool good looking moves. :P
9
climb2core said on November 13th, 2011
Good climb. Wished there was more once you pull the roof.
10
camhead said on March 5th, 2012
I removed the first fixed draw yesterday, its biner was sharp enough to shave your fingernail. This was after seeing a group fall/hang all over the route for 3 hours. Pay attention, people!
11
Spikeddem said on July 17th, 2012
Switched out the biners underneath the roof and the one just before the lip. They weren't looking too great.
12
dlewis101 said on November 21st, 2012
Just switched out the draw right below the lip/crux. I guess these need to be replaced about every 6 months with the amount of traffic this route gets. So, why don't you guys be everyone's pal and switch some of the draws if they look dangerous instead of assuming someone else will do it for you.
13
dustonian said on November 21st, 2012
Whole wall needs steel or nothing
14
SCIN said on November 21st, 2012
Dlewis, please come back on May 21st and replace your draw. Thanks.
15
dlewis101 said on November 27th, 2012
SCIN, ha ha! I'm sure I'll get right to it (in 6 months). Dustonian: you just really only need permas on the 4, 5, 6th bolt. You can easily top-rope clean the first 3 draws.
16
climb2core said on November 27th, 2012
If you are going to TR clean the first 3 bolts, why not just finish it to the chains?
17
dlewis101 said on November 27th, 2012
Because TR cleaning through the crux might be hard, you know, since it's a crux and all. With that same logic, why have any perma draws on any route since you can TR clean any route. Heck, I was looking at 50 words for pump and thought to myself: "what a bunch of wimps with those fixed draws! I'd just TR clean it and all!" So I say, if Climb2Core wants to TR clean through the crux, more power to him. Me, I just want to get my first 3 draws down and go on to do other climbs.
18
Spikeddem said on November 27th, 2012
Dlewis: Simply remove the ones after and in the crux while lowering, and then back clean the first ones on TR after re-tying in on the other end. Problem solved.
19
climb2core said on November 27th, 2012
dlewis, I just meant that it is more common (at least around the Red) to either fully equip or to just do cleaning biner and a couple at the chains. Considering the popularity of the route, the steepness, and the propensity for aluminum to show up I would suggest as Dustonian did that full steel is appropriate for this route. However, I would love to see a standard where people get use to hanging and pulling there own draw off the first bolt. But to your point, of course I understand that if you are just trying to pull your gear, less climbing is easier.
20
dlewis101 said on November 27th, 2012
hey all, no offense intended and none (hopefully) given. I will say that this route needs some nice permanent hardware on it. I just wanted t let everyone know the draw right below the lip (the one most people fall one and, from the looks of, lower from as well) is ok to go for a few months at least. These overhanging routes are a real pain to clean, so at least they are a bit easier with some draws already up.
21
dustonian said on November 27th, 2012
All the aluminum crap will be coming off the wall in the next few months. Send a pm if you're interested in donating some steel or at least a cleaning draw to any of the routes here.
22
Cromper said on December 3rd, 2012
Took the alumimank off this yesterday. If it's yours message me. 1 perma on this at the moment, I'll be back to put more on within a month.
23
dustonian said on December 3rd, 2012
Or just leave it as-is and see how long it takes for aluminum the reaccumulate. Nice work Scotty C.
24
climb2core said on December 3rd, 2012
Now we need donations to put the steel up. Thanks Cromper!!!
25
pigsteak said on December 3rd, 2012
no, we need to learn out to back rope and clean your own gear people. quit being so damn lazy..what is this climb...20 foot tall?
26
climb2core said on December 3rd, 2012
Kipp, you figure out a way to make that happen and I will support it 100%. Personally, I think that will happen when Pigs Fly or by decree of the RRGCC.
27
pigsteak said on December 3rd, 2012
starts with us c2c.....
28
climb2core said on December 3rd, 2012
Ok, I already do not leave up project draws, I don't donate abandon or donate aluminum, and I clean mank gear as encountered. What else should I do for this revolution to occur?
29
super safe ian said on December 3rd, 2012
"Ok, I already do not leave up project draws, I don't donate abandon or donate aluminum, and I clean mank gear as encountered. What else should I do for this revolution to occur?"- Climb2Core Translation: "I already started a facebook page and clearly have reached a consensus number of followers. Why aren't all my likes leading to supporting actions? Surely they are not liking the page just to keep tabs on the local crazy, right?"
30
Anonymous said on December 3rd, 2012
Super Safe Ian " "I already started a facebook page and clearly have reached a consensus number of followers. Why aren't all my likes leading to supporting actions? Surely they are not liking the page just to keep tabs on the local crazy, right?" Translation: "Hi, I am a useless prick that has nothing of value to offer to the Red, so I will just try to talk shit and hide behind some username on the internet because I am such a pussy."
31
climb2core said on December 3rd, 2012
Just to be clear, that was me commenting SSI.
32
super safe ian said on December 3rd, 2012
"Hi, I am a useless prick that has nothing of value to offer to the Red, so I will just try to talk shit and hide behind some username on the internet because I am such a pussy."-climb2core Translation: "Sorry, I feel sensitive today."
33
Anonymous said on December 3rd, 2012
That's what I thought. Confirmed, you are spineless fucktard.
34
super safe ian said on December 3rd, 2012
"That's what I thought. Confirmed, you are spineless fucktard."-climb2core Translation: "Argh, Ian hulk smash keyboard!"
35
Anonymous said on January 21st, 2013
Pulled the aluminum draws and left a couple steel cleaners, so take 4 of your own draws for the top 2-3 bolts and anchor. Please clean your draws when you leave.
36
tradotto said on April 14th, 2014
Man, after all of that, I really want to climb this route.
37
DrRockso said on September 24th, 2015
The crux bolt and the next one right before the anchors are looking super corroded. Will report on badbolts.com as well.
38
Anonymous said on May 23rd, 2018
Has anybody found a green Rope in a bag under this route? Left on 5/19. generous reward for it's safe return.
39
nitrousstone said on June 24th, 2018
All perma'd now baby. go get on this 'ish