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The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Eastern Gorge Region at Buzzard's Roost


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Buzzard's Roost South 5.7 (Trad) **

First Ascent: Tom Seibert, John Lamb, Eric Bostrum in 1970
Length: 100ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Climb the crack on the south side of the buttress (the left one as you look down from the top). Pull over a small overhang above a short dihedral, then wander up the face to the right of the crack.
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS

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2 stars (4 votes)
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5.8 (3 votes)

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Submitted by: MikeWilkinson
Date: Oct 5th, 2021


ynot said on September 6th, 2004
The first roof is always wet and mossy.It makes it feel more like5.8.The second roof gets bypassed to the right. 3 pitches,cool exposure,fun but not a great route.
Anonymous said on November 17th, 2004
Anonymous said on November 17th, 2004
Sco Bro said on September 29th, 2008
Fun and adventurous, nice top out. We did it in two pitches, with the first pitch ending at the tree above the mossy roof. We then climbed left of the crack for the last 30 feet or so, the gear was finicky and the holds were positive.
Rollo said on August 27th, 2011
There are two bolts to protect going left around the mossy roof. There is also a set of rap rings to the left of the large hueco about halfway down making it much easier to rap down to the base of these climbs with something less than a 70 meter rope. There is also a bolt near the top on the left. Fun easy climb with nice exposure.
MikeWilkinson said on October 6th, 2021
OK so there is a pair of glue-ins at the top, just below the lip on the southern corner; they aren’t next to the crack like you might expect them to be. After climbing up to the midway ledge with the rap station, we saw a line of well-spaced bolts (3 total) leading up and left. Not knowing any better (and not having large cams for the main crack) I followed the bolts into dirty, heady, 5.10 climbing. I ended up on a mossy ledge just below the summit (but too far left to reach the anchors safely) where I found no pro in the face but I did see a hole from a previous bolt placement, perhaps the one that Rollo saw in 2011? Topout moves from here were R-rated with only a slung tree several feet below and a nasty fall just waiting to happen. Not sure who bolted this variation in the first place but my stupid self went for an adventure that I did not enjoy.
caribe said on October 10th, 2021
caribe said on October 10th, 2021
Mike that looks like an attractive dihedral! How wide was the crack above the point at which you went to the left?
MikeWilkinson said on October 11th, 2021
Don't let the photo fool you, the dihedral may look pretty but the day we did it the crack was a slimy #3. The block that rests above it is constantly seeping. As for the upper crack section, I'm pretty sure it needed bigger sizes. if I were to go back for it I'd take a 4 and 5.