COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Eastern Gorge Region at Buzzard's Roost


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Buzzard's Roost South 5.7 (Trad) **

First Ascent: Tom Seibert, John Lamb, Eric Bostrum in 1970
Length: 100ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Climb the crack on the south side of the buttress (the left one as you look down from the top). Pull over a small overhang above a short dihedral, then wander up the face to the right of the crack.
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS

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2 stars (4 votes)
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5.8 (3 votes)

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Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}


ynot said on September 6th, 2004
The first roof is always wet and mossy.It makes it feel more like5.8.The second roof gets bypassed to the right. 3 pitches,cool exposure,fun but not a great route.
Anonymous said on November 17th, 2004
Anonymous said on November 17th, 2004
Sco Bro said on September 29th, 2008
Fun and adventurous, nice top out. We did it in two pitches, with the first pitch ending at the tree above the mossy roof. We then climbed left of the crack for the last 30 feet or so, the gear was finicky and the holds were positive.
Rollo said on August 27th, 2011
There are two bolts to protect going left around the mossy roof. There is also a set of rap rings to the left of the large hueco about halfway down making it much easier to rap down to the base of these climbs with something less than a 70 meter rope. There is also a bolt near the top on the left. Fun easy climb with nice exposure.