Waning Moon

This route is located in the Eastern Gorge Region at Half Moon

Meteor Fall


7.
+0
0 votes

Full Moon 5.7 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Tom Seibert, Ellen Seibert, Frank Becker, Larry Day in 1973
Length: 100ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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On the north side of the rock is rectangular buttress. This route follows the dihedral on the western (right) side of the buttress. Layback a wide crack to a ledge and belay. Layback or jam up to another ledge and belay. Chimney up.
Variation 1: Climb a flake and ramp to the right on the last pitch. (5.4) Variation 2: Climb a handcrack on the left wall of the chimney on the last pitch. (5.8)
Stays Dry:
Owner: Unknown
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.73 stars (15 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.7 (11 votes)

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Submitted by: possum2082
Date: May 19th, 2009

Submitted by: possum2082
Date: May 18th, 2009

Comments

1
tamara said on July 12th, 2005
You need a lot (bold underline) of big cams for this route and slings for trees. I think I put in 4 pieces and 2 slings on the entire route.
2
Anonymous said on August 10th, 2005
What do you mean by big cams? 3's? Or bigger?
3
Caspian said on September 29th, 2005
I would bring at least a 4.5 camalot or equivlent. I don't know if I would say to bring "a lot" of big stuff.
4
rokjunki said on July 23rd, 2007
loved this climb, the red rules
5
kman154 said on May 18th, 2009
Cool route. I do not really think it is a 5.6. It is harder then they but it did not feel like a 5.7 either. I would climb it again. Need big pro. Great top out with a cool view and the walk of was great as well.
6
kman154 said on May 18th, 2009
I need to proof read before I submit. It should read "It was harder then that" and "the walk off was great".
7
AdSprad said on May 18th, 2009
Wow, this climb was more mental than anything. Very doable and way fun. GREAT views along the ledges and a few options for the third pitch...or you can run it out from the second pitch.
8
possum2082 said on May 19th, 2009
i was so excited to finally do this route. had a great time. did it as 3 pitches. 1st pitch is the hardest (7ish). bring a full rack of cams for anchors and a few horizontals. we did it with bd's #3.5, 4, and 5.
9
monty4355 said on July 9th, 2012
Really fun route! Wish it was a bit cleaner. The base of half moon is ridiculous with how much trash there is surrounding it.
10
DrRockso said on June 13th, 2013
Did this climb today, Bring a BD #4 and #5 at a minimum! I did it with a standard rack up to #4 but was scary without the 5. There are some pods and horizontals for smaller placements in the left face. If you have a big enough rack you can string pitches 1 and 2 together, if you don't want to do the chimney, climb up the easy ramp with lots of moss and debris to the right.
11
wilkes86 said on May 21st, 2015
The chimney may be the best part of this climb. If you have a 5 & 6 bring them, they will get used.
12
veela-valoom said on June 18th, 2018
Super fun route and definitely worth doing. The first few steps are mossy then it leads to some fun climbing the rest of the way.
13
taurusclimber said on June 18th, 2018
The route was clean. Fun movement, climb at a historical area, chimney top out from inside a corridor, and a great view to finish it all up. Worth the trip. I walked a 5 and 6 most of the way through good placements, with pieces from finger to hand size in the horizontals on the way up.
14
MikeWilkinson said on June 17th, 2019
Classic. Too bad about all the garbage at the base though.