Beginner's Nightmare

This route is located in the Eastern Gorge Region at Princess Arch

Ripp-Off


2.
+0
0 votes

Adrenaline 5.10d (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Ed Pearsall in 1980
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Walk left from the base of Beginner's Nightmare to an inspiring crack which splits a bulging face. Climb a short slab to the left of a seam. Protect out of the crack but climb slippery ladder-like holds to its left until the lip. Reach back to the crack for some gnarly fingerlocks and thrash over the bulge. Saunter up the crack, move right, and face climb to a substantial tree.
Stays Dry:
Owner: Unknown
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.75 stars (4 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (2 votes)

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Comments

1
haas said on July 14th, 2004
There's now anchors at the top of the crack, roughly 40ft. up. Would be a classic if not for all the dirt inside the hand crack near the bulge.
2
Wolf said on November 12th, 2010
Would be classic without the dirt. As it is it's still pretty cool.