Chimney Top

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 11 1 - 12
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Directions to Chimney Top

USFS
This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
From the parking area for Skybridge Ridge or Funk Rock City, continue south on KY 715 for about 1.4 miles until you reach an intersection with Sky Bridge Drive. Do not turn right onto this road. Instead, take a sharp left turn and remain on KY 715 for 2.7 miles until you see a gravel road to the right named Chimney Top Road. Turn right on this road and follow for 3.6 miles to the end of the road. On the right side of the loop at the end of the road is the trailhead for Chimey Top. Follow the trail for a few minutes until you see a bail out trail on the right just before a wooden fence. Follow this trail down as it winds through a series of ledges leading to the base of the wall. From the base, bushwhack toward the end of chimney top in the direction you were walking. After several hundred feet you should be able to spot Hamburger and Last Day.

Wall Sun: Unknown



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Hamburger Trad 5.10b
 
60  
Locate the first handcrack along the approach which is just left of a wide crack system. Climb the crack until it fades then traverse right to join up with Last Day. Steepness:

2

Last Day Trad 5.10c
 
160
This line ascends the wide crack system just right of Hamburger. To locate, look for a 7 foot high pointed boulder near the base. Climb to an overhang and style through the offwidth crux to a belay on a ledge. Continue left to a large tree for another belay. From the belay, climb a left-angling crack to a narrow ledge then traverse right (R section - 5.8) and climb up to another ledge. Move left to a tree and dart for the top. Steepness:

3

Check Canopy Trad 5.7
 
100  
From Last Day, hike right to a small pinnacle near the main wall. Start on the pinnacle and climb a right-facing dihedral which switches corners and ends on a ledge. Belay from the ledge then continue up a left-angling crack which leads to a bit of face climbing to reach the top. Steepness:

4

Dirty Crack Trad 5.7
 
100  
Move right from Check Canopy to the next dirty crack. Climb it to the top. Steepness:

5

Zig-Zag Trad 5.6
 
130  
From Dirty Crack, walk right to the final crack before the main chimney which gives Chimney Top its name. Climb the crack then move right along a ledge for a belay. Continue up the crack to a small overhang, crawl left, then face climb to a small ledge for another belay. Traverse right to a set of twin cracks which leads to a roof. Dodge the roof by traversing left to a flared crack which ends in an alcove near the top. From the alcove, climb a few more feet to reach the top. Now you know why they call it Zig-Zag. Steepness:

6

Chimney Direct Trad 5.7
 
130
Move right and around the corner from Zig-Zag to an offwidth. Climb the offwidth to a ledge and belay. From the ledge, climb a short dihedral to another ledge and traverse left to an alcove to meet up with the final pitch of Tunnel Route. Follow the crack to the top. Variation 5.7 R: From the second pitch, climb the crack on the face left of the dihedral. Variation FA: Bob Compton, Bud Compton, early 1970s. Steepness:

7

Chimney's Chimney Trad 5.2
 
100  
Walk around the end of the buttress to the south facing side of Chimney Top which faces Half Moon. Chimney up anywhere in the first and obvious crack to the top. Steepness:

8

The Prow Mixed 5.10c
 
100  
Climb the first pitch of Chimney's Chimney then traverse left along a ledge to a fixed pin and belay. Continue up and left along chossy rock to a ledge with a fixed anchor and belay. Head right to locate a handcrack which leads to the top. Steepness:

9

Tunnel Route Trad 5.5
 
150  
Before its closure, this was one of the best long and exposed easy routes in the Red. Move right from Chimney's Chimney to the next crack system. Begin by scrambling up a gully to a ledge 20 feet up. Pull over an overhang to reach another ledge and belay. Scramble through a tunnel in the rock to the north face then traverse 15 feet to reach an exposed belay in an alcove. Pull over a small roof then continue up the slab to the top. Variaton 1 5.4 R: Climb the face left of the first pitch. Variation 2 5.5 R: Instead of crawling through the tunnel, chimney to the top. Steepness:

10

True Grit Trad 5.9
 
60  
Move right from Tunnel Route to the next gully which leads to a large ledge. Climb an overhanging wall to the right of a crack and step left to a ledge. Continue up a dihedral and pull an overhang. Traverse right along the ledge to reach the top. Steepness:

10a

Lost Chimney Trad 5.6
 
85  
50 feet right of True Grit, up a steep slope with a boulder and behind a big tree is an orange face with a nice crack that ends in Rhodos. 85 feet Variation: 5.4R Continue to the top through the Rhodos and up an unproteted slab. Steepness:

11

Shipwrecked Trad 5.8
 
55  
Walk right a ways from True Grit to locate a pillar which forms an arch with the main wall. Climb the crack near the inside of the arch then pull over a roof and jam to the top. Steepness:

Comments

1
ynot said on November 6th, 2006
Don't even think about climbing here. Friggin tourists will steal anything you leave on top,no matter where you hide it. Even your shoes.The same goes for Half Moon.
2
LK Day said on December 28th, 2010
Fair warning ynot. But the 10.c offwidth in this area is an outstanding adventure climb. Just don't leave anything lying around at the top.