COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Haystack Rock

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.3 2 1 - 3

Directions to Haystack Rock

This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
From the Shell gas station in Slade, turn left out of the parking lot onto Route 15 and drive 3.4 miles until you see a sign for Tunnel Ridge Road. Turn left onto Tunnel Ridge Road and follow for a 3.7 miles until it ends at a large parking area for Auxier Ridge. Park and follow the Auxier Ridge Trail (Trail #204) for 1.8 miles along a ridge. When the ridge narrows and becomes all rock, angle back left and walk out a few hundred feet to a buttress.

Wall Sun: Unknown

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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture


Haystack Trad 5.3
Scramble down to a saddle between the end of the ridge and Haystack Rock. Begin climbing above a steep gully, then pass a large dish on the right on your way to the apex. Shun the old anchors at the top and scramble back down instead. Steepness:


Girdle Traverse Trad 5.4
Try to explain this one to the gawking tourists. Begin in a rockhouse on the northeast side of the dome and circle around the rock from right to left. Steepness:


Dirty Rastafarian Scoundrels Mixed 5.6
From the base of Haystack Rock, head left to locate an arete on the west side. Scramble up the left side of the rock to a ledge with a crack. Hand traverse right to a ledge then clip a fixed pin. Keep moving right to the arete then move up to a ledge. Continue up the face to the top. Steepness:


Ascentionist said on November 26th, 2005
Fun old school routes with great exposure