Beer Trailer Crag

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.12 7 3 29 39
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Directions to Beer Trailer Crag

Drive 0.1 miles past Torrent Falls to the popular store known as the beer trailer for obvious reasons. Just look for the OPEN BEER sign on the right. Park in the gravel lot and head left up the hill to reach the wall.

Wall Sun: Unknown



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Magic Medicine Trad 5.9
 
40  
Walk left and around the corner from Falls City to locate this overhanging dihedral to an undercling roof. Steepness:

1a

Two Cups of Silly Sport 5.12c
 
50
Follows the line of glue-ins left and around the corner from Falls City. A funky boulder problem will surely have you swearing at the start. Gain a shake out ledge and follow more techy face climbing to the top. Steepness:

2

Falls City Sport 5.13b
 
55
This is the furthest route left on the left side of the Beer Trailer crag. Punch through a series of difficult boulder problems through the first half of the line then ease up to the chains. Steepness:
Tags
slopey-1 : bouldery-4

3

Tie One On Sport 5.12d
 
55
Just right of Falls City is another tough boulder problem although more of a height dependent one-move-wonder. Equipped by Frank Byron. Steepness:

4

Evening Wood Sport 5.12a
 
50
Begin on Morning Wood but after the 3rd bolt break up and left for an afternoon stiffy. Steepness:

5

Morning Wood Sport 5.12a
 
40
This route may give you just that! Locate the leftmost line on the short wall. Boulder up through sequential pocket moves to an overhanging and more featured face above. After the third bolt, continue angling right to the next bolt. Steepness:

5a

Fake ID Sport 5.11b
 
50  
Fun vert/slab route to the right of the Morning Wood Wall. Balancing moves on cool holds. Steepness:
Tags
exposed-1 : juggy-1

6

Sluts are Cool Sport 5.12a
 
40
Move right from the previous line to the next line which begins 10 feet left of a green dihedral. Crank through a tough start then continue up the sustained steep face to the anchors. Steepness:

7

Mini Keg Trad 5.8
 
40  
Start 100 feet right of Sluts Are Cool. Climb obvious finger and hand dihedral crack to ring anchors. Steepness:
Tags
hands-1 : fingers-1 : dihedral-2

8

Specific Gravity Sport 5.12a
 
45  
Next sport route about 25 feet to the right of Mini Keg. Bouldery start to the right of the bolt line leads to a flake mid way up the route. Catch your breath and continue up the technical face to a right leaning ramp at the top. Steepness:
Tags
crimpy-1 : vertical-1 : short-2 : technical-2

9

Bottles Up Sport Grade Unknown
 
50  
Next bolted line right of Specific Gravity. Currently an open project. Expect extremely long moves if you're tall and shut down moves if you're not. Grade estimated to be between 5.12d-5.13b. Steepness:

9a

Beers to You (Closed Project) Sport 5.13
 
50
Start on the obvious rail feature leading to several boulder problems with a good rest thrown in the middle. Equipped by Scott Curran. Steepness:

10

Beer Trailer Sport 5.12b
 
40  
Move right from the previous lines to locate this route marked by glue-in bolts which ascends an ivy choked blank face. Steepness:

10b

Summer Shandy Trad 5.10d
 
60  
Pull a tough boulder problem to get established in a flared handcrack. From here move right onto a handcrack ramp system for 20 feet. Finish on flared jams and crimps on the face above to bolted anchors. Steepness:

11

Bourbon Barrel Shot Gun Sport 5.13b
 
60
This route and the next can be found on the wall opposite the previous routes. When approaching from the beer trailer, take the trail up and right to reach the wall instead of going left as for the previous lines. This route is located about 50 feet left of where the trail meets the cliff. It follows a left leaning flake up to a blank section of vertical rock where a V8 boulder problem awaits. Steepness:

11a

Imperial Stout Trad 5.10d
 
70
In the dihedral between the main 5.12 wall and Bourbon Barrel Shotgun is this often damp left-leaning crack. An improbable start with a couple good finger-sized cams leads to fun off-balance jamming and liebacking. Save a .5 Camalot for the Horsepens topout slopers. Well worth doing if you catch it dry (late summer or fall). Steepness:

11b

Drunken Master Sport 5.13c
 
0
Steepness:

12

Better than Homemade Sport 5.12d
 
55
This is the next route right of the open project and the first from the left on the main wall where the trail meets the cliff. Begin with a tough move right off the mud castle and crimp up to a decent ledge. From the ledge, choose your path through the crux based on your ape index to reach another decent ledge. Crawl up on more sloping pockets to the next bolt then pinch increasingly better holds to the chains. Steepness:

13

Hang Over Sport 5.12c
 
55
Right of Better than Homemade. Start with a jug then bust through a tough start and gun for the ledge. Scum out of the ledge on small crimps and slap hard at chalk spots to reach the next bolt. A few more moves gets you a reward ledge and easier climbing to the chains. Steepness:

14

High Life Sport 5.12b
 
55
Next route right of Hang Over. Begin on a ledge and pull through long moves on good edges to a lie down rest in a horizontal. When rested, crawl out of your coffin and take on a crimpy groove to another comfy shake before the final haul to the chains. Steepness:

15

Liquid Courage Sport 5.12b
 
50
Begin with the first bolt of High Life but continue straight up through decent edges to reach the main coffin horizontal. If you're desperate crawl in. Continue up through some groove crimping to reach a final jug from which you can contemplate how you'll reach the distant chalk spot near the chains. Steepness:

15a

Korsakoff Syndrome Sport 5.11c
 
60
A steep juggy start right of Liquid Courage leads to a blunt arete and tricky slab finish. The extension of the route from the low anchor to the upper one is an open project. Steepness:

15b

Delirium Tremens Trad 5.10b
 
75  
Start in the bombay chimney between Korsakoff Syndrome and Wet your Whistle, wriggling through the squeeze wherever you can. Continue through quality liebacking, undercling flake surfing, and jamming out the steep left-leaning corner system. Descend from the upper anchor of Korsakoff Syndrome or top out and rap from a tree or walk off climber's left for full value. Steepness:

16

Wet Your Whistle Sport 5.12a
 
70
Start on Afternoon Buzz, then pump left after the third bolt and a seasonal wet spot, with jugs good enough it don't matter. Thanks to Vento climbing for donating the awesome hangers! http://www.vento.ru/ Steepness:

17

Afternoon Buzz Sport 5.12a
 
60
Easy climbing to a ledge followed by a boulder problem and long reaches between good holds. Thanks to Vento climbing for donating the awesome hangers! http://www.vento.ru/ Steepness:

17b

Beer-Thirty Sport 5.11d
 
65
Just right of Afternoon Buzz is this steep line with cool sustained movement. Endure a little choss at the start to gain wild moves out steep terrain. Hang on through a tough crimpy crux at the top of the wall. Steepness:

18

PBR Street Gang Sport 5.11c
 
60
Climb the amazing face to the right and around the corner of Afternoon Buzz. Unlikely moves on tiny crimpers end up being easier then they look. A long move to a sloper guards the top. Super fun climbing and a great warm up for the harder routes. Steepness:

18a

Trailer Trashed Trad 5.11-
 
60  
Wide, overhanging dihedral just right of PBR Street Gang. Pull through varied moves to the wide mid-section where the fun really starts. Clip anchors on PBR or top out. Steepness:

19

The Fray Train Sport 5.12a
 
60
Walk around the corner from Liquid Courage 100 feet to locate this line which begins with some tough opening moves. Chug up through the mid-section to reach the final few bolts which make the ride worth it. CHOO! CHOO! Steepness:
Tags
steep-2 : sharp-1 : shady-1

20

Darkness Falls Sport 5.12d
 
70
Next route to the right of Fray Train. Steepness:
Tags
classic-1

20a

Simpler Times Sport 5.11b
 
60  
Stem off the giant old tree, or don't (5.12?), to gain this cool featured slab. Steepness:

20b

Four Out the Door Mixed 5.12a
 
60
Mixed route right of the large beech tree. Steepness:

21

Quaffed Up (Closed Project) Sport 5.12
 
60  
The slab line following a series of eyebrow-like features to the right and around the corner from Darkness Falls. Steepness:

22

12 Oz Curl Mixed 5.12a
 
60
Climb a hand and finger crack to a nice rest. Get a breather and take on the tough boulder problem guarding the chains. Steepness:

23

Mixed Project Mixed 5.12-
 
60  
Start on the sport route to the right but bust left towards the obvious crack when the sport route doglegs right. Steepness:

24

Dilated Cardiomyopathy Sport 5.12c
 
60  
Clip 3 bolts then traverse right along the arch when the mixed route goes up and left, pulling burly slopey moves to gain a no-hands rest. Steepness:

25

Open Project Sport Unknown
 
55  
Direct start to the route to the left. Hard slopey crux on excellent rock. There is also an interesting looking crack just right of this that is often wet. Steepness:

26

Old Crack Trad 5.8
 
55  
100 feet right of the slab wall is this attractive corner system with some old severed tat hanging from the tree up top. Steepness:

27

Cognitive Dissonance Sport 5.12a
 
80  
Two minutes right of the slab wall, down and back up a small gully is this long gorgeous face climb. Jump of a cheater stack to start, then continue up increasingly technical face interrupted by a nice ledge rest in the middle. Steepness:

Comments

1
Anonymous said on February 13th, 2005
sweet
2
Gaar said on September 28th, 2005
I heard there are some good trad climbs here too!
3
jaseym01 said on April 30th, 2007
Does anyone know anything about the boulder problems at Beer Trailer?
4
Paul3eb said on October 29th, 2007
a few other routes here that aren't listed. one has had all but one of the bolts pulled and the anchors are still there. another is a line that branches left of morning wood.. though it looks relatively contrived and looks like a possible ground fall if you ended up falling at/near the fourth bolt. has anchors, though. other development possibilities around the hollow..?
5
Buster said on October 29th, 2007
Paul, I have anchors in a route around to the right of the things that are listed here. It should be pretty good but due to a brain injury I forgot all about it until now. Have at! BTW.... there is a route to the left of Morning Wood that Zeb (RIP) put in around the same time that we were doing the others. I never climbed it but remember a fairly big run out that might result in a deck fall.
6
Anonymous said on December 17th, 2008
how the hell do you post new routes that bolted?
7
SCIN said on December 17th, 2008
Send them to me, Wes, or Yasmeen.
8
Power2U said on October 20th, 2009
A little confusing around the new routes. There 4 on the main wall from left to right facing the cliff, 12d, 12c, 12a, 12b, according to the guide? Then further down there is one by itself, 12c? Climbs up a left leaning flake then verts out. Couldn't find the project? Hard rock, different style then your typical RRG steep pockets, oh but still plenty steep!
9
said on July 1st, 2010
New route going up to the far right of the wall.....to the right of Fray Train.....going out some sick roofs.....does anyone have any info about this route....rope hanging and top half bolted??
10
JR said on May 29th, 2012
The routes on the left side are mostly in the shade. When are the routes on the right(hang over, high life, etc) in the shade?
11
dustonian said on May 29th, 2012
morning
12
Bum said on April 17th, 2013
In the new guide book there is a route listed as a 5.9 Sport on the far left. It's trad. Expect to warm up on 12+.