Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 8 - 13 21
loading

Directions to Purgatory

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
Follow directions to reach Shady Grove but continue along the trail for 10 minutes past that area crossing three foot bridges along the way. There are small wooden signs marking the path also.

Wall Sun: Morning

{show overview map}


Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Butterfly Gangbang Trad 5.8+
 
80
Just before going through the arch to reach the main sport routes of Purgatory, walk left 50ft. to find the next three lines. This is the left leaning flake that starts as a handcrack and has a tree 50ft. up on a ledge. Try not to let the butterflies violate you as you grovel up the widening handcrack. Steepness:

2

Looking Through the Devil's Window Trad 5.6
 
40
This wide, left leaning ramp up a green face begins 30ft. left of Butterfly Gangbang. Layback up the clean crack to bolted anchors next to the entrance of a cave. Steepness:

3

Mist of Funk Trad 5.10b
 
90
Walk 30 ft. left of Looking Through the Devil's Window to a left facing dihedral with two roofs on it. Boulder up to a ledge, then layback up and around the first roof to a no hands rest in a large hueco. Continue to a higher ledge and belay. Tackle the surprisingly short second roof and top out. Steepness:

4

Skunk love Sport 5.11b
 
65  
Another tough slab line right of Stirrin' the Grits. This one is actually doable for non-slab masters. Steepness:

5

Stirrin' the Grits Sport 5.11c
 
65  
Just left of Skunk Love lies this slab on solid stone. Bring out your inner trad game for three bolts, and then ponder how in the world the next moves could only be 5.11. Unlock that puzzle, and an airy run to bolt five guarantees you will stir yer grits. Steepness:

6

Believer Sport 5.11b
 
60
This line is the first bolted route encountered after walking through the arch. Look to your left 10 feet after you walk through the arch for a face with a few bolted lines. Climb finger pockets to a sit down rest then take on the overhanging headwall above. Steepness:

7

Special Boy Sport 5.11c
 
75  
Move right from Believer to the next bolted line. Begin with a thin start which leads to better holds and fun climbing with a nice hueco rest midway. Keep it together for the long run to the anchors. Steepness:

8

Fallen Angel Trad 5.11c
 
70  
Locate a beautiful crack splitting the face right of the previous lines. Crank through sporty moves to reach an expanding right-facing dihedral near the top which offers a bit of relief. Steepness:

9

Gluttony Sport 5.12a
 
75
Step right from Fallen Angel to locate this bolted line. Climb up a slab and crack then move out onto the face at the third bolt. Crank through a tough move to reach a sloping ledge. Continue up the overhanging face on perfect pockets to reach the vertical run to the anchors. Steepness:

10

Fat Man's Misery Trad 5.4
 
40
Mosey up the wide ramp 25ft. right of Fallen Angel to a ledge and build a belay. Crawl THROUGH the cave on the belay ledge for 30ft. to reach the anchors of Looking Through the Devil's Window on the opposite side of Purgatory and rappel. Bring a #5 camalot for the belay. Steepness:

11

The Proverbial Donkey Trad 5.11a
 
100
Start in an alcove 20ft. left of Dracula behind a large, spearhead boulder. Work up the face to gain a fist crack in a roof. A fall before here would be very bad with the spine of the boulder directly below you. Note, the second is also in danger of swinging into the boulder as you cannot protect the low section. Work up the crack system over several ledges until a comfy belay ledge directly under a 15ft. roof. Bail out here for a higher quality climb at 5.10b R or continue out the roof on shakey jams and bad feet to chain anchors just past the lip of the roof. 60m. rope required. Steepness:

12

Dracula '04 Sport 5.13b
 
60
Move right from The Proverbial Donkey to the next bolted line marked by a sharp corner. Power through the initial technical and brutal moves to reach a decent clipping hold. Climb a crack for a few feet then bust left. Hold your breath for the clip then make your way to the next bolt. Recharge for the long run to the anchors. Great climbing. Steepness:
Tags
classic-1

13

Lucifer Sport 5.14c
 
100
To the right of Dracula '04. Climb relatively easy moves to the third bolt then bust left through a V7 boulder problem to reach a quick shake at the fourth bolt. Recharge then boulder through a more difficult section to reach a moderate rest at the fifth bolt. From the fifth, endure the redpoint run to the break. At the break, ponder on what a bad ass mofo you are, then finish it up. Steepness:

14

The Castle Has Fallen Sport 5.13b
 
65
Climb the first 3 bolts of Lucifer and head straight up the seam. Long bouldery moves just before the chains. Steepness:

15

Paradise Lost Sport 5.13a
 
65
This line is destined to become a classic. Move right from The Castle Has Fallen to take on the striking overhanging arete. Begin climbing the seam then traverse right past small pockets to gain a large ledge rest. When recovered, launch up the overhanging arete through big moves on small edges to a heart breaker crux just before reaching the final jugs. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-1 : arete-2 : beautiful-1 : bouldery-3

16

Paradise Regained Sport 5.13b
 
0  
This line is an extension of the arete Paradise Lost. Stiff for the grade! 70 meter rope necessary. Steepness:

17

Hellraiser Sport 5.12c
 
65
Walk right from Paradise Lost past a large ampitheater. This is the next sport line and follows a distinct line of pockets through grey rock. Climb through fragile holds a few feet to reach a good hold. Reach hard through the crux then flow to the anchors on large holds. Steepness:

18

The Gimp Sport 5.10a
 
60
The next bolted right of Hellraiser. Pull on plates to a slab. Start up the vert section, make a tricky move to the next clip, then climb good holds to the top. Steepness:

19

Back in the Days of Bold Trad 5.11c
 
85
Step right around the corner from The Gimp to locate this broken fingercrack. Work your way up the low fingercrack on the left, boulder up to regain the higher crack. Follow the widening, flaring crack until it ends then friction on an easy, but sparsly protected slab to chain anchors. Steepness:

20

Jumbo Shrimp Sport 5.10a
 
50  
To the right of The Gimp starts a slightly dirty route that moves up through some technical vertical face and surmounts a small bulge before continuing on big holds to chain anchors. Steepness:

21

The Seventh Circle of Dante Trad 5.10a
 
65
Walk 60ft. right of Back in the Days of Bold to find this route at the end of the ledge. Start in a large pod/hueco and climb the face up to an offwidth and squeeze chimney that starts 15ft. up. Work up the crack until it flares and fizzles out. Protect out of a pocket and follow the line of least resistance up the slab to a tree. Steepness:

Comments

1
Anonymous said on February 10th, 2005
kenny. oh boy. expect relentless sandbagging
2
SCIN said on February 12th, 2005
Thanks for the info Kenny!
3
allah said on February 17th, 2005
Should have alot more by June I hope.
4
RRO said on May 25th, 2005
Good job on the trails Kenny.
5
Anonymous said on June 27th, 2005
Kenny, I just got on paradise lost, which is without a doubt my favorite 13 anywhere, and will go down hopefully in the next couple of tries. However quick question at the 2nd bolt jug is that lower ledge supposed to be off? Let us know? Thanks man
6
allah said on June 29th, 2005
What ever you want, I never used it cause it really isnt needed, its not a gym so what ever is there is in. Good luck yo
7
Paul3eb said on July 11th, 2005
awesome work on this place kenny and crew. high quality routes with high quality development.. not to mention beautiful lines. seriously, you should be proud as hell of this place.
8
J-Rock said on July 25th, 2005
Beautiful cliff!
9
pigsteak said on December 10th, 2005
I just walked into the purgatory for the first time today...amazing, even just to look at it. excellent work mr. barker..
10
Anonymous said on March 29th, 2006
Someone needs to clean up all of the garbage left by the hikers in this area. There were old ropes lying around in the dirt, dog bowls, cordelettes, webbing, and other trash. It actually takes away from the quality of the other lines in the area..
11
Caspian said on March 29th, 2006
Convenient that you posted as "Someone" and you stated that 'someone' should help clean up. I agree completely.
12
allah said on March 29th, 2006
Its getting all cleaned up this weekend
13
Anonymous said on April 20th, 2006
this place is a fucking pile
14
Anonymous said on April 20th, 2006
Someone needs to sign in and stop hiding if they have something to say. You go out and spend your money and time developing an area and then get back to us. F-ing wanker.
15
Anonymous said on April 20th, 2006
Someone needs to sign in and stop hiding if they have something to say. You go out and spend your money and time developing an area and then get back to us. F-ing wanker.
16
Anonymous said on April 20th, 2006
So no mistakes are made. Matt T posted the above(twice for some reason) Mods: Something is wrong with comments. Im signed in on the main page but still showing as someone on here.
17
SCIN said on November 25th, 2006
Parking Area GPS Coordinates: Latitude 37.65139, Longitude 83.71667
18
SCIN said on December 9th, 2007
Almost all of these lines stay dry when most of the Red is wet.
19
Anonymous said on December 10th, 2007
Have fun slapping that arete at the top of Dracula in the rain, Ray. Probably best to move right if there've been a few showers
20
Yasmeen said on October 6th, 2008
Any info on the new sport route to the right of The Gimp?
21
allah said on October 7th, 2008
don't know thought it looked like a pile though
22
flip said on October 7th, 2008
Jump Shrimp. It's about 9+/10- I think Tony but it up. And it is a pile.
23
pigsteak said on October 7th, 2008
jumbo shrimp, I believe