Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.9 1 - 7 8
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Directions to Great Arch

Muir Valley
This wall is in property owned by Muir Valley. Be respectful.
The enormous arch directly across from The Great Wall. From the creek crossing below the Great Wall (at the hairpin curve) follow the logging road left and uphill until you reach a flat area with a large mossy boulder and another logging road on your right that runs parallel to the Solarium. The Great Arch can be accessed along this level logging road under the Solarium. Continue along the road (past the trail to the Solarium) until you are almost below the arch and you see some wooden steps on your left. This will quickly lead you directly to the arch. There will be more routes soon...

Wall Sun: Unknown



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

9 1/2 Bouldering V0
 
10  
This is the large mossy boulder near the beginning of the approach trail. There are a few interesting variations on this big pebble that small kids might enjoy. Steepness:

2

Double Stuff Sport 5.12a
 
90
This is the route located just left of Ear Drops. Pitch 1: Start by moving through big ledges on steep terrain until you reach a picnic rest at the belay ledge. Bring up the second and contemplate the airy 2nd pitch. Pitch 2: Move left off of the ledge and use fun underclings and sidepulls to reach the chains. Don't forget to look out left while climbing, but looking down may not be for the faint of heart. Steepness:

3

Ear Drops Trad 5.8+
 
80  
Climb up the wide dihedral in the left side of the Great Arch and continue to a set of anchors. Steepness:

4

Dyn-o-mite Sport 5.9
 
85
This is the leftmost sport route under the giant arch. It often appears wet, but it can still be easily climbed. Fun climbing up a variety of interesting features. Good beginner route. Bolted on lead (while wet). Steepness:

5

Black Powder Sport 5.10a
 
85
More juggy climbing on fantastic features. Begin 15-20 feet right of "Dyn-o-mite" and angle up and right. The moves at the 3rd bolt should be interesting as there are a variety of ways to climb this section. Steepness:

6

Lip Service Sport 5.11c
 
80
This amazing route has it all. Starts as a juggy roofs and then becomes technical face with big slopers. Classic. Steepness:
Tags
slopey-2 : classic-1

7

Beef Stick Sport 5.12a
 
0
Stick clip the first bolt. Start by pulling the low roof up to the obvious black streak 20ft. right of Lip Service. Pull the bulge at the 2nd bolt and enjoy the laid back finish. Steepness:

8

Night Moves Sport 5.11b
 
60
Stick clip first bolt. Start on the boulders left of the first bolt and traverse right to begin. Casual moves on big holds to a lay down rest! Soak up the rest and move through the bouldery finish. Steepness:

9

Battery Life Sport 5.11b
 
60
Same start as Night moves shares the first bolt. Move right after the first bolt and pull through the low boulder problem. Resist the pump on the beautifully decieving flakes and try not to blow the finish. Steepness:

Comments

1
william said on March 19th, 2007
What area is the great wall in? What road will take me to the trail? Are there any other nice arches or caves that are not on the common maps? If so could you tell me there location? Longitude and Latitude would be great!
2
william said on March 19th, 2007
What area is the great wall in? What road will take me to the trail? Are there any other nice arches or caves that are not on the common maps? If so could you tell me there location? Longitude and Latitude would be great!
3
DrRockso said on May 21st, 2018
Currenly a Copperhead nest near the route Black Powder, please leave them alone and exercise caution in this area.