COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Sunbeam Buttress

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 4 1 10 17

Directions to Sunbeam Buttress

Muir Valley
This wall is in property owned by Muir Valley. Be respectful.
This area is only 5 minutes past the Great Arch. The same logging road that leads to the Solarium and the Great Arch continues to the Sunbeam Buttress. Follow the directions to the Great Arch, but instead of taking the uphill trail on the left to the Great Arch climbing area continue walking along the easy logging road. It will dip down a short hill, across a grassy meadow, and then up another short hill. There will then be a red tagged trail on your left near a very small pond where the road comes closest to the cliff. This short and easy trail will take you to "Sunbeam", "Moonshine", and "Out of the Dark". Routes 5-6 will be to the right and routes 7-11 will be to the left. Routes 12-17 start from the ledge above the fixed rope left of "Sunbeam". See the map below. There is a new trail that meets the cliffline between routes #10 and #11.

Wall Sun: Unknown

{show overview map}

Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture


Sunbeam Sport 5.10c
3.54  (54) 65ft  


Moonshine Sport 5.10a
3.36  (83) 60ft


Out of the Dark Sport 5.10c
3.79  (56) 65ft


Revenge of the Sith Trad 5.10c
3.33  (12) 20ft  


Three Amigos Trad 5.9+


Primordial Dissonance Mixed 5.10
4.00  (1) 80ft  


Where's My Chisel Sport 5.9
1.68  (25) 35ft  


Directed Panspermia Toprope 5.12c
3.00  (3) 30ft  


Stems and Seeds Toprope 5.11+
3.78  (9) 30ft


Mossy Mayhem Trad 5.10


Trekker of the Treacherous Trad 5.4


Predator Sport 5.11b
3.66  (29) 45ft  


Prey Sport 5.11b
3.47  (30) 55ft


Universal Gravitation Sport 5.10d
2.44  (32) 40ft  


Backstabber Sport 5.9
2.88  (75) 40ft


Radical Evolution Sport 5.11a
3.56  (32) 45ft  


Morning Sun Sport 5.11a
3.61  (41) 50ft  


J-Rock said on June 17th, 2005
This area should be online before the end of June. The routes are still being cleaned and some more trail work needs to be completed. Most of the routes have a big roof over them and will remain dry in a downpour. There are several good 5.10-5.11 sport routes and the approach is very mellow.
michaelzr2 said on June 21st, 2005
Where is this area located?
J-Rock said on June 22nd, 2005
We will post the trail directions and route descriptions next week when the trail work is completed and the routes are properly cleaned and have been climbed 10 or 15 times. If you want to climb there now then just contact one of the developers and we'll give you directions.
J-Rock said on January 5th, 2006
I'm not sure what happened to the map. This area is a little bit confusing, so would it be possible to have the map put back on here please?
J-Rock said on January 6th, 2006
Thank you to whoever fixed that so quickly.
rjackson said on November 19th, 2020
Great for the sun, but expect a rash of weirdness from this crag. Odd bolt placements abound and the grades are quite whack-a-doodle.