Sunbeam Buttress

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 4 1 10 17
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Directions to Sunbeam Buttress

Muir Valley
This wall is in property owned by Muir Valley. Be respectful.
This area is only 5 minutes past the Great Arch. The same logging road that leads to the Solarium and the Great Arch continues to the Sunbeam Buttress. Follow the directions to the Great Arch, but instead of taking the uphill trail on the left to the Great Arch climbing area continue walking along the easy logging road. It will dip down a short hill, across a grassy meadow, and then up another short hill. There will then be a red tagged trail on your left near a very small pond where the road comes closest to the cliff. This short and easy trail will take you to "Sunbeam", "Moonshine", and "Out of the Dark". Routes 5-6 will be to the right and routes 7-11 will be to the left. Routes 12-17 start from the ledge above the fixed rope left of "Sunbeam". See the map below. There is a new trail that meets the cliffline between routes #10 and #11.

Wall Sun: Unknown

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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Sunbeam Sport 5.10c
 
65  
This route begins right of the fixed rope that accesses the ledge. Climb up easy ground to a fixed draw and a short bouldery section at the 2nd bolt then cruise up big holds to a set of anchors below the cave. Steepness:
Tags
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2

Moonshine Sport 5.10a
 
60
This route begins left of the slabby blunt arete that is 15 feet right of "Sunbeam". Climb past a bolt to reach the ledge and then clip the next bolt and pull the juggy roof. Journey upward past a few more bolts to an interesting finish. If you liked "Creature Feature" then you will probably enjoy this route too. Steepness:

3

Out of the Dark Sport 5.10c
 
65
This route climbs the overhanging arete above the ledge to the right of "Moonshine". Traverse right along the ledge to the high first bolt (that can easily be clipped standing on the ledge) or climb "Revenge of the Sith" as a direct start. Pull the roof and then jug haul up the overhanging arete to a vertical, but slightly more technical finish. The rock quality is much better than it looks. Fun moves. Steepness:

4

Revenge of the Sith Trad 5.10c
 
20  
This is the obvious overhanging handcrack directly beneath "Out of the Dark". It could also be done as a highball boulder problem or a direct start to "Out of the Dark". Steepness:

5

Three Amigos Trad 5.9+
 
70  
This handcrack can be found by following the cliff to the right for ~50-100 feet. As soon as you reach a small clearing with a tiny creek look to your left and you will see this crack with a steep start. Steepness:

6

Primordial Dissonance Mixed 5.10
 
80  
This route begins ~20 feet right of the previous route. Climb up to the bolt and battle a brief bouldery section to a simple right arching crack the ends on a ledge. Clip another bolt and pull the roof above the ledge to another crack and a set of anchors above the next ledge. Steepness:

7

Where's My Chisel Sport 5.9
 
35  
Routes 7-11 can be found by walking left along the cliff for ~100 feet from "Sunbeam" and "Moonshine". Go slightly downhill and continue past a green pinnacle until you encounter a short slabby sport route on the left. Steepness:

8

Directed Panspermia Toprope 5.12c
 
30  
This powerful and tricky climb ascends a flake feature up a thin technical face. Those who like to boulder will probably enjoy the moves on this one. Steepness:

9

Stems and Seeds Toprope 5.11+
 
30
Short testpiece dihedral. An exercise in crimping and stemming. Good luck. Steepness:

10

Mossy Mayhem Trad 5.10
 
30  
Dirty 3rd class gully on the left side of the pinnacle and the main wall that can be climbed to access the ledge. There are a couple of 5th class moves in the chimney at the top. Then step across the gap to climb onto the ledge. Not recommended. Steepness:

11

Trekker of the Treacherous Trad 5.4
 
40  
This crack can also be climbed to access the ledge. It is on the right side of the mossy pinnacle and the main wall. There is a large tree growing out of the crack that must be negotiated. Steepness:

12

Predator Sport 5.11b
 
45  
Routes 12-17 are located above the ledge that is accessed via the short fixed rope. This route is the leftmost one. The ring anchors to your left are for the testpiece dihedral "Stems and Seeds". "Predator" has a reachy start out the roof from an undercling to a small edge. From there it is moderate vertical face climbing to a mantle finish. Steepness:

13

Prey Sport 5.11b
 
55
This route is 10-15 feet right of "Predator" and has another powerful start. Undercling, crimp, and jam past the roof start to easy face climbing and another smaller roof near the top. Finish on the large ledge above and watch the climbers falling or sending at the Solarium. Steepness:

14

Universal Gravitation Sport 5.10d
 
40  
This route is 10-15 feet right of "Prey" and features another crux start. Crimp your way past the initial roof and then edge on up to the anchors. Steepness:

15

Backstabber Sport 5.9
 
40
This fun arete with a brief overhanging move or two is sure to be enjoyed by many. Cool moves on good holds. Be careful when cleaning to avoid getting stabbed in the back by a large pine tree. Steepness:

16

Radical Evolution Sport 5.11a
 
45  
This overhanging route right of "Universal Gravitation" begins above the boulder leaning against the cliff. Steep climbing out several roofs that will keep you guessing. Go big. Steepness:

17

Morning Sun Sport 5.11a
 
50  
Right of "Universal Gravitation" and also the first route left of the fixed rope (and Sunbeam). Pumpy. Steepness:

Comments

1
J-Rock said on June 17th, 2005
This area should be online before the end of June. The routes are still being cleaned and some more trail work needs to be completed. Most of the routes have a big roof over them and will remain dry in a downpour. There are several good 5.10-5.11 sport routes and the approach is very mellow.
2
michaelzr2 said on June 21st, 2005
Where is this area located?
3
J-Rock said on June 22nd, 2005
We will post the trail directions and route descriptions next week when the trail work is completed and the routes are properly cleaned and have been climbed 10 or 15 times. If you want to climb there now then just contact one of the developers and we'll give you directions.
4
J-Rock said on January 5th, 2006
I'm not sure what happened to the map. This area is a little bit confusing, so would it be possible to have the map put back on here please?
5
J-Rock said on January 6th, 2006
Thank you to whoever fixed that so quickly.