COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Chica Bonita Wall

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.8 15 1 31 47

Directions to Chica Bonita Wall

This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
From the Drive-By parking lot, walk back along Bald Rock Rd. toward the Motherlode for 100 yards. Veeer left up a left curving hill. Pass one road on the right, then take the 2nd right straight up a 2-track road to an abandoned oil box. The trail is located just behind the shed thing. Routes are listed from left to right.

Wall Sun: Unknown

Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture


Tight Lipped 2 Sport 5.11c
2.33  (6) 55ft


Mixed Emotions Mixed 5.8
2.50  (2) 50ft


Tiger Lily Sport 5.9
1.88  (8) 35ft  


Laying Pipe Under the Bridge Trad 5.7
2.40  (10) 70ft


Good Wood Solid Spank Sport 5.11c
1.57  (7) 65ft


The Friend Zone Trad 5.6
2.00  (4) 50ft  


My Way or the Highway Sport 5.9
3.43  (14) 80ft  


Darling Dirtbag Trad 5.8
2.75  (4) 93ft  


Quicky Trad 5.8
1.80  (5) 25ft  


Fresh off the Bone Sport 5.11d
3.61  (18) 65ft


Mary Pop-Parazzi Sport 5.5
2.05  (61) 25ft


Pocahontas Path Sport 5.7
2.25  (65) 25ft


The Spice of Life Trad 5.10b
3.75  (8) 70ft


Brolo El Cunado Sport 5.8
2.52  (23) 30ft  


Raindancer Sport 5.10a
2.47  (106) 30ft


Rinse and Repeat Trad 5.7
2.00  (41) 30ft


The Dude Abides Sport 5.11c
3.12  (57) 65ft


Cold Hard Bitch Sport 5.12b
3.36  (14) 40ft


Hellava Caucasian Sport 5.12a
3.36  (11) 0ft  


Hot Drama Teacher Sport 5.11a
3.69  (54) 90ft


Ridin' the Short Buzz Sport 5.9-
3.13  (97) 35ft


When Rats Attack Sport 5.10b
3.24  (62) 55ft


Flying the Bird Sport 5.10b
3.20  (30) 50ft  


Honduran Rum Trad 5.10c
3.50  (2) 70ft


Be My Yoko Ono Trad 5.8-
3.05  (42) 70ft


Let's Get Drunk and Think About It Trad 5.10a
2.33  (3) 80ft  


Cheaper Than a Movie Trad 5.8
4.67  (88) 100ft


Brown Eyed Girl Sport 5.10a
4.25  (126) 70ft


Baby Blue Eyes Sport 5.10c
4.14  (72) 75ft


Bessie Sport 5.11c
4.44  (25) 100ft  


Sexy Sadie Trad 5.10b
3.50  (2) 100ft  


You Take Sally Sport 5.11d
4.47  (15) 80ft  


I'll Take Sue Sport 5.11a
3.57  (37) 80ft


Size Doesn't Matter Sport 5.11a
4.07  (29) 80ft


That's What She Said Sport 5.10c
4.06  (51) 90ft


She Might Be A Liar Sport 5.11b
4.36  (22) 75ft


Motor Booty Pimp Affair Sport 5.10b
3.21  (29) 95ft


Thunda Bunda Trad 5.10d
2.00  (2) 110ft  


Falkor Trad 5.10d
3.00  (2) 110ft  


Marriage Counseling Trad 5.11c


Old English Sport 5.10c
3.40  (30) 75ft


Colt 45 Sport 5.12b
3.57  (7) 75ft


King Cobra Sport 5.12a
3.71  (7) 75ft


Sister Catherine the Conqueror Sport 5.12b
3.00  (2) 95ft  


Sorostitute Trad 5.7


Chucklehead Sport 5.11c
3.00  (4) 55ft  


Good Gravy Sport 5.10b
3.67  (9) 55ft  


haas said on August 8th, 2005
There's a cool hominy hole below the roof on The Spice of Life
RRO said on August 26th, 2005
Do not get on the slab to the right of Cheaper Than a Moive. Bolting is not complete.
Ascentionist said on October 5th, 2005
These directions suck. I walked every road between Bob Marley and Sore Heel and didn't find anything that looked like this approach.
RRO said on October 8th, 2005
Your the only one that has gotten lost.......Stop by and I will take you out there.
Ascentionist said on November 28th, 2005
Found it, but not with these directions. I think the cut trail just isn't so obvious. Look to the right from thbe box?
kraker said on January 9th, 2006
More Beta on the approach-After you walk back 100 yards, look left and there are 2 roads. Take the one on the right. Also, Ascentionist is correct, look right from the box.
ynot said on November 6th, 2006
"Pass one road on the right, Then take the second right" The roads are on the left coming from the parking lot and it's the third one. Are all routesetters dyxlaexic? luckily there's handy signs now. Chica Bonita Rocks! It's a great shade crag
J-Rock said on November 26th, 2006
There is now a new and improved trail courtesy of Mark and Jenny.
Jeff said on July 17th, 2007
Great work out here guys. A destination for getting a slab fix.
Wolf said on July 21st, 2007
To get the most out of Chica, you really need a 60m rope.
dbarless said on August 8th, 2007
chica bonita is a great wall, especially if you like slab...60m will be good, 70m will get you up and down everything here...the climbing is great, the grades are solid, tons of fun!
krampus said on September 30th, 2007
the signs are good, but the "shed thing" does not exist. The trail at the top of the road is not obvious. all the thorn bushes remind one in flip-flops that the obvious clifline at the top of the road is NOT Chica Bonita.
Wolf said on October 1st, 2007
Well, that obvious cliffline is the way to if you want to get to the top of Chica Bonita. The route is known as Tackett's Toughest, and goes at a stout 4.15 + or easy 5.0.
goodguy said on November 12th, 2007
While at Chica Bonita wall today almost sat on a large Yellow Jacket nest thats in the ground. The nest is about 10ft from the base of The Spice of Life, under a small log and lots of leaves. WATCH OUT!!
pawilkes said on February 18th, 2008
so this maybe nit picky but from looking at maps of the area, it looks like Chica Bonita should be listed as a Bald Rock road crag rather than in Sore Heel, as it is in the guide book. does that make sense to other people?
Anonymous said on August 11th, 2008
so who put up the new route between When Rats Attack and Honduran Rum (I think) and did the trail work recently? Very nice work on both! I especially loved the route. Name? Difficulty?
RRO said on August 12th, 2008
JJ did some work up there recently. I will get the info and update. Mark and Jenny Ryan did a bunch of trail work last year so if its new Im not sure who did it but THANKS !
JR said on September 29th, 2008
Come on Blake. What is the deal with the route to the right of Dude Abides? Bouldery sections with no hands rests. Needs one more bolt up top. I think it gets the 12a nod. Fun route. This cliff needed a twelve.
Josephine said on April 6th, 2009
There are 2 short sport routes to the left of raindancer & to the right of a set of training anchors - maybe 5.6 & 5.7 ish? they were short - maybe 3 or 4 bolts. no red tag - but not listed in the guide? anyone have information about them?
Wolf said on April 6th, 2009
Mark Ryan put them up, but has yet to name them.
captain static said on May 6th, 2009
The two short training routes and anchors were installed by Mark for UCLIMB.
rjackson said on June 1st, 2009
There's a sport route between The Dude Abides and Hot Drama Teacher. Crumbly bottom to big roof. Any information?
Wolf said on June 2nd, 2009
The sport route between TDA and HDT was put up by Blake. 11d/12a. Has a bit of a runout up top on easier climbing. JR was writing about this route in his comment on Sept 29, 2008. I think a hold may have broken recently.
rjackson said on June 2nd, 2009
Thanks Wolf, I missed the comment above. At the base of the climb there was evidence that something broke off (some pretty large pieces); we guessed from the roof. Still needs a name and entry in the guide, or is he pulling the bolts?
pigsteak said on June 2nd, 2009
hey rjackson, were you planning on snaking this route from Blake?
rjackson said on June 3rd, 2009
Thanks Pigsteak, now I must publicly post my intentions, using the wall comments section for all to know. No, not with the amount of holds laying on the ground. And besides, it's not snaking if it ain't tagged, right? But seriously, hasn't this thing been sent, wassup?!
rjackson said on June 3rd, 2009
Looks like an official route now, and we probably wouldn't even have looked at it had we known that it is what it wasn't. I think the name should stick...
pigsteak said on June 3rd, 2009
just trying to help my friend....just to trying to help....
alfredo said on August 29th, 2010
Thank you trail day! Now you don't have to wade thru poison ivy to get to the wall!
Cromper said on April 23rd, 2013
Made a little trail over to chucklehead and good gravy from main chica today. Follow the green flashing.
dustonian said on April 23rd, 2013
I guess it is about time for your annual poison ivy breakout...
Anonymous said on May 11th, 2014
Who's megaline down the hill to the right from Sister Catherine? Looks full value...
climb2core said on May 11th, 2014
I guess that line is Sister Catherine. I counted lines off a screen shot and apparently there is an abandoned line just right of Crompers 3 that has some old mank on it.
Admiral Awkward Beta said on October 23rd, 2014
What's the new line left of Mary Pop-Parazzi? Didn't have a red tag. Pretty cool movement out that steep bit onto a headwall. Fun route, but needs a lot of cleaning up high. I gave it a good brush.
Anonymous said on October 23rd, 2014
Pretty sure that is Troy's newest line. "Fresh off the Bone" 11d
amarius said on April 5th, 2017
Route between "The Dude Abides" and "Hellava Caucasian" is 5.12b "Cold Hard Bitch"
jcook said on May 20th, 2017
What is the route furthest left on the main wall? Its bolted right outside the Rockhouse to the left.
Anonymous said on May 25th, 2017
Does anyone know about the route in the ampitheater furthest right? I'm not sure if its tagged or not but it looks blood hard.
Rx2Climb said on June 10th, 2017
There are a couple new routes here. Can they be added to the site?
ray said on June 10th, 2017
Sure, just email then to [email protected]
Anonymous said on August 7th, 2017
Is there a trail to get to the Gallery wall area from Chica Bonita? Thx.
aldenbrom said on August 7th, 2017
A trail from Chica Bonita to Gallery would be almost as long as just walking back down to the parking area for Chica Bonita, driving to the parking area for Gallery and walking the trail to sore heel hollow. If you're so inclined I suppose you could top out a route at Chica Bonita, and then walk on top of the cliff and rappel down to Gallery, but that seems like a lot of work. If you look at a topo map of the area you'll see why there's no trail between these areas.
Anonymous said on December 28th, 2020
Big shout-out to the hero who put up the three bolt, death block ridden king line between the 7 and 8. A true visionary rivaling none other than the great Jaggers himself.
Anonymous said on December 28th, 2020
Hope someone's dog or toddler doesn't get squashed when some gumball inevitably yards the thing off. At least said brave bolter was kind enough to chalk a gigantic X on it. Still, despite such deadly choss, this overlooked masterpiece of a line had to be put up. Destiny calls!