Chica Bonita Wall

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.8 15 - 30 45
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Directions to Chica Bonita Wall

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
From the Drive-By parking lot, walk back along Bald Rock Rd. toward the Motherlode for 100 yards. Veeer left up a left curving hill. Pass one road on the right, then take the 2nd right straight up a 2-track road to an abandoned oil box. The trail is located just behind the shed thing. Routes are listed from left to right.

Wall Sun: Unknown



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

0a

Tight Lipped 2 Sport 5.11c
 
55
First route on the far left side of Chica Bonita. Technical vertical face. Steepness:
Tags
vertical-2 : technical-1

0b

Tiger Lily Sport 5.9
 
35  
Start on the slab just left of the oil pipe running up to the top. Balance up and angle left towards the small flake above. Steepness:

1

Laying Pipe Under the Bridge Trad 5.7
 
70
When you reach the old oil pump where you turn right to head to the main Chica Bonita Wall, instead turn to your left and bushwhack along the cliff line. After roughly 300 feet you will come to this obvious line that has an old oil pipeline coming down from the top of the cliff and going under a small natural bridge / rock arch. To the left of the pipe is a muddy flake, and to the right a clean handcrack. Take the handcrack up, traverse under the arch, and then climb up and onto the arch. Enjoy the view as you straddle the arch, then continue to follow the pipeline up easier ground to the top of the cliff. Steepness:

1a

The Friend Zone Trad 5.6
 
50  
Located 30 feet right of Laying Pipe,this intro to offwidth uses BD 3-6. It sucks when you first realize you are in the friend zone, but once you're OK with it, it is a lot of fun! Rap from pine tree. Steepness:

1b

My Way or the Highway Sport 5.9
 
80  
Steepness:

2

Darling Dirtbag Trad 5.8
 
93  
As you walk into Chica Bonita, this is the arête, crack, and face system immediately before the rockhouse that houses Quicky through The Dude Abides. Climb the arête with care and then plunge into a hand crack. Pull some small roofs and bulges and then slide up the slab to the top. It's not that runout, but I hope you remembered small cams for the top. Steepness:

3

Quicky Trad 5.8
 
25  
Climb the short dihedral with a roof capping the top of it. Downclimb. Steepness:

3a

Fresh off the Bone Sport 5.11d
 
65
As you walk into the rock house area glance up to the left to find a diamond in the coal. Gear yourself up mentally for a roller coaster of emotions as you tackle a roof, moving up and left to somewhat of a rest and clip. Gather yourself and press up on stellar holds and a great ride. Steepness:

4

Mary Pop-Parazzi Sport 5.5
 
25
The first short sport line encountered at Chica. To the right of Quicky. Steepness:

5

Pocahontas Path Sport 5.7
 
25
The next short sport line just right of Mary Pop-Parazzi. Steepness:

6

The Spice of Life Trad 5.10b
 
70
This route begins as a wide crack just right of Pocahontas. Climb the outside face of the wide crack, protecting out of a pocket, to a ledge. Head out the roof to another ledge with chain anchors. Steepness:

6a

Brolo El Cunado Sport 5.8
 
30  
Short route with a flake-like feature just right of Spice of Life. Steepness:

7

Raindancer Sport 5.10a
 
30
This short rainy day sport is located 20 feet right of Spice of Life. A fun and slightly bouldery start leads up to juggy pockets. Shares anchors with "Rinse and Repeat". Steepness:

8

Rinse and Repeat Trad 5.7
 
30
The short right facing dihedral just right of Raindancer. Steepness:

9

The Dude Abides Sport 5.11c
 
65
Just right of Rinse and Repeat is this sport line. Climb to a ledge then continue up a pocketed wall to the chains. Steepness:
Tags
slopey-1

9a

Cold Hard Bitch Sport 5.12b
 
40
Begins on arete between The Dude Abides and Helluva Caucasian. Steepness:
Tags
short-1

10

Hellava Caucasian Sport 5.12a
 
0  
Next bolted line right of The Dude Abides. Bouldery with rests. Could use another bolt at the top. Steepness:
Tags
steep-2 : runout-1

11

Hot Drama Teacher Sport 5.11a
 
90
Walk 50 feet right of Spice of Life to find this varied line. Steepness:
Tags
offwidth-1 : pile-1

12

Ridin' the Short Buzz Sport 5.9-
 
35
This juggy climb is located ~15' right of "Hot Drama Teacher". A reachy start on small holds soon leads to increasingly larger jugs. A nice warm-up for the harder stuff. Steepness:

13

When Rats Attack Sport 5.10b
 
55
30 feet right of "Ridin' the Short Buzz". Climb the arête to a ledge, clip the bolt and surmount the 1st bulge climbing to another ledge. Cruise the next bulge then crimp and secret side pull your way the anchors. Steepness:

14

Flying the Bird Sport 5.10b
 
50  
Right of When Rats Attack is a large dirty chimney. This bolted line climbs the slab 20 feet right of the chimney. Not for the mantelly disabled. Steepness:

15

Honduran Rum Trad 5.10c
 
70
25 feet right of Honduran Rum is a thin, broken crack system with a tree growing in front of it. Climb up to a ledge 15ft. up to reach the broken cracks. Pull over the ledge as the crack widens to another ledge with bolted anchors. Steepness:

16

Be My Yoko Ono Trad 5.8-
 
70
40ft. right of Honduran Rum is a right facing dihedral with enormous plates. Climb the easy corner protecting out the crack, pull over a small bulge on jugs and take the handcrack to a ledge with a tree. Rap tree or traverse the ledge to bolted anchors on Honduran Rum. Steepness:

17

Let's Get Drunk and Think About It Trad 5.10a
 
80  
200ft. right of Be My Yoko Ono is a dirty handcrack dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a ledge with a tree and belay. Ascend the clean right arching flake to the top. Rap tree. Should clean up with traffic. Steepness:

18

Cheaper Than a Movie Trad 5.8
 
100
Just right of Let?s Get Drunk is a right arching crack. Climb the crack to the top. Steepness:
Tags
fun-2 : classic-1 : long-1 : dihedral-1 : beautiful-2

19

Brown Eyed Girl Sport 5.10a
 
70
Immediately right of "Cheaper Than a Movie" is this fine line and the easiest of the trio of slab routes. Fun and balancy moves on good rock leads to slabbier thin face climbing above. Clean and aesthetic. Steepness:

20

Baby Blue Eyes Sport 5.10c
 
75
This is the next slab route beginning 15 feet right of Baby Blue Eyes and starts on a layback flake. Enjoy very fun and technical climbing to the anchors. First bolt is high, stick clip or boulder up moderate ground. Another bolt may be added after a few repeats. Steepness:

21

Bessie Sport 5.11c
 
100  
Another fun slab 20 feet right of Baby Blue Eyes. Are you calves flaming yet? Steepness:

22

Sexy Sadie Trad 5.10b
 
100  
This line is recognized by the short crack system that starts about 20 ft or so off the ground right of Bessie. Good pro through the lower crux where the crack fades. After the crux, place a #2 Camalot in the horizontal right of where the crack ends. Run it to the slab with minimal to zero pro then keep a cool lead head for the slab where the occasional horizontal placement can be found. Steepness:

23

You Take Sally Sport 5.11d
 
80  
Walk right from Bessie 50 feet and find a hueco with routes going out the left and right side about 25 feet off the ground. This is the left route. Enjoy technical, sequential moves mixed with some exciting mantels. Steepness:

24

I'll Take Sue Sport 5.11a
 
80  
This is the route coming out of the hueco on the right. Technical, slabby and fun. Steepness:

25

Size Doesn't Matter Sport 5.11a
 
80  
Walk 20 feet right from Sue and you will find this enjoyable slab with a distinct crux section. Do you go right, left or up ? Steepness:

26

That's What She Said Sport 5.10c
 
90
10 feet right of Size Doesn't Matter. Look for the trail to cut right down the hill or up onto a boulder/ledge. This is the sport route starting on the entry to this ledge. Good long warm up for the rest of the slabs on this wall or a great project for the new slab leader. Steepness:

27

She Might Be A Liar Sport 5.11b
 
75
Stay on the same ledge as Thats What She Said starts on and this is the next route right. This route is a little more spicy and awkard than most the routes at this wall. Enjoy moves rarely used at the Red. Steepness:

28

Motor Booty Pimp Affair Sport 5.10b
 
95
Before the slab ledge you will see a trail cutting down hill, after the boulder this is the first route you will come to. Pull thru decent climbing in the first half and then enjoy spectacular climbing on the second half. Steepness:

29

Thunda Bunda Trad 5.10d
 
110  
Go past Motor Booty Pimp Affair and you'll find this offwidth that begins in a low roof before you come to Marriage Counseling. Pull the tough start to get established in the offwidth, then continue until you come to a big hueco. Traverse left to another wide crack and set a belay. Pull another difficult offwidth start, come to another hueco, and cut left again, but now step out onto the slab and commit. Top it out, or make a sparsely protected traverse to the anchors on MBPA. If you only have a 60, you'll probably need to rap from the tree above MBPA and again from the anchors on that route. Steepness:

30

Falkor Trad 5.10d
 
110  
Do the same hard offwidth start as Thunda Bunda, but blast straight up instead of cutting left. Wander back and forth a bit to find the best pro and sequences, enjoying the exposure and the spice. Top it out and belay. Go to the left to rap from a tree above Motor Booty Pimp Affair. If you only have a 60 meter you'll have to rap again off the Motor Booty Pimp Affair anchors in order to reach the ground. Steepness:

31

Marriage Counseling Trad 5.11c
 
80
Walk 300ft. right of Cheaper Than a Movie to reach this route. Monkey up vertical to slabby tiers into a large pod. Move left out of the pod with good holds over a bulge to a stance beneath an overhanging crack system. Boulder up and over a bulge into a small chimney and bolted anchors. Steepness:

31a

Old English Sport 5.10c
 
75
A tough boulder problem start leads to juggy climbing and several no hands stances. Gain a large ledge and move left into the large overhanging flake feature. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-5 : juggy-1

31b

Colt 45 Sport 5.12b
 
75
Start on the first bolt of Old English and head straight up and right through easy terrain. Make your way to a small roof and a sit down ledge. From here head up into the overhanging headwall passing several boulder problems and good rests. Save some juice for the devious pocket crux up high. Steepness:
Tags
dynamic-1

31c

King Cobra Sport 5.12a
 
75
Make a few mantle moves past 2 bolts to gain a large ledge. Climb several more feet to get to a small roof. Take a break, sit down, and gather your strength for the looming overhanging pocketed headwall. Crank off hard moves on honeycomb pockets and finger jugs to a final jug rail at the last bolt. Mantle up to a nice stance and clip the chains. Steepness:
Tags
pockets-1 : bouldery-3

32

Sister Catherine the Conqueror Sport 5.12b
 
95  
From Marriage Counseling continue to the right, descending some scree, crossing a drainage, and continuing back up. Before you come to Sorostitute, you'll come to some small boulders and see a wall with a large roof at mid-height and this line. Steepness:

33

Sorostitute Trad 5.7
 
50  
300ft. right of Marriage Counseling is an obvious dihedral in the back of the ampitheater. Climb the dihedral to a sandy ledge. Rap from fixed gear. Dirtier than she looks. Steepness:

34

Chucklehead Sport 5.11c
 
55  
Continue walking well past Sorostitute until you reach a pair of nice looking bolted lines. This is the left of the two lines and begins with sloping moves then kicks back midway for the steeps the Red is known for. Steepness:

35

Good Gravy Sport 5.10b
 
55  
Just right of Chucklehead is an another great line on solid stone. Holds so good you'll think you're in the gym. Steepness:

Comments

1
haas said on August 8th, 2005
There's a cool hominy hole below the roof on The Spice of Life
2
RRO said on August 26th, 2005
Do not get on the slab to the right of Cheaper Than a Moive. Bolting is not complete.
3
Ascentionist said on October 5th, 2005
These directions suck. I walked every road between Bob Marley and Sore Heel and didn't find anything that looked like this approach.
4
RRO said on October 8th, 2005
Your the only one that has gotten lost.......Stop by and I will take you out there.
5
Ascentionist said on November 28th, 2005
Found it, but not with these directions. I think the cut trail just isn't so obvious. Look to the right from thbe box?
6
kraker said on January 9th, 2006
More Beta on the approach-After you walk back 100 yards, look left and there are 2 roads. Take the one on the right. Also, Ascentionist is correct, look right from the box.
7
ynot said on November 6th, 2006
"Pass one road on the right, Then take the second right" The roads are on the left coming from the parking lot and it's the third one. Are all routesetters dyxlaexic? luckily there's handy signs now. Chica Bonita Rocks! It's a great shade crag
8
J-Rock said on November 26th, 2006
There is now a new and improved trail courtesy of Mark and Jenny.
9
Jeff said on July 17th, 2007
Great work out here guys. A destination for getting a slab fix.
10
Wolf said on July 21st, 2007
To get the most out of Chica, you really need a 60m rope.
11
dbarless said on August 8th, 2007
chica bonita is a great wall, especially if you like slab...60m will be good, 70m will get you up and down everything here...the climbing is great, the grades are solid, tons of fun!
12
krampus said on September 30th, 2007
the signs are good, but the "shed thing" does not exist. The trail at the top of the road is not obvious. all the thorn bushes remind one in flip-flops that the obvious clifline at the top of the road is NOT Chica Bonita.
13
Wolf said on October 1st, 2007
Well, that obvious cliffline is the way to if you want to get to the top of Chica Bonita. The route is known as Tackett's Toughest, and goes at a stout 4.15 + or easy 5.0.
14
goodguy said on November 12th, 2007
While at Chica Bonita wall today almost sat on a large Yellow Jacket nest thats in the ground. The nest is about 10ft from the base of The Spice of Life, under a small log and lots of leaves. WATCH OUT!!
15
pawilkes said on February 18th, 2008
so this maybe nit picky but from looking at maps of the area, it looks like Chica Bonita should be listed as a Bald Rock road crag rather than in Sore Heel, as it is in the guide book. does that make sense to other people?
16
Anonymous said on August 11th, 2008
so who put up the new route between When Rats Attack and Honduran Rum (I think) and did the trail work recently? Very nice work on both! I especially loved the route. Name? Difficulty?
17
RRO said on August 12th, 2008
JJ did some work up there recently. I will get the info and update. Mark and Jenny Ryan did a bunch of trail work last year so if its new Im not sure who did it but THANKS !
18
JR said on September 29th, 2008
Come on Blake. What is the deal with the route to the right of Dude Abides? Bouldery sections with no hands rests. Needs one more bolt up top. I think it gets the 12a nod. Fun route. This cliff needed a twelve.
19
Josephine said on April 6th, 2009
There are 2 short sport routes to the left of raindancer & to the right of a set of training anchors - maybe 5.6 & 5.7 ish? they were short - maybe 3 or 4 bolts. no red tag - but not listed in the guide? anyone have information about them?
20
Wolf said on April 6th, 2009
Mark Ryan put them up, but has yet to name them.
21
captain static said on May 6th, 2009
The two short training routes and anchors were installed by Mark for UCLIMB.
22
rjackson said on June 1st, 2009
There's a sport route between The Dude Abides and Hot Drama Teacher. Crumbly bottom to big roof. Any information?
23
Wolf said on June 2nd, 2009
The sport route between TDA and HDT was put up by Blake. 11d/12a. Has a bit of a runout up top on easier climbing. JR was writing about this route in his comment on Sept 29, 2008. I think a hold may have broken recently.
24
rjackson said on June 2nd, 2009
Thanks Wolf, I missed the comment above. At the base of the climb there was evidence that something broke off (some pretty large pieces); we guessed from the roof. Still needs a name and entry in the guide, or is he pulling the bolts?
25
pigsteak said on June 2nd, 2009
hey rjackson, were you planning on snaking this route from Blake?
26
rjackson said on June 3rd, 2009
Thanks Pigsteak, now I must publicly post my intentions, using the wall comments section for all to know. No, not with the amount of holds laying on the ground. And besides, it's not snaking if it ain't tagged, right? But seriously, hasn't this thing been sent, wassup?!
27
rjackson said on June 3rd, 2009
Looks like an official route now, and we probably wouldn't even have looked at it had we known that it is what it wasn't. I think the name should stick...
28
pigsteak said on June 3rd, 2009
just trying to help my friend....just to trying to help....
29
alfredo said on August 29th, 2010
Thank you trail day! Now you don't have to wade thru poison ivy to get to the wall!
30
Cromper said on April 23rd, 2013
Made a little trail over to chucklehead and good gravy from main chica today. Follow the green flashing.
31
dustonian said on April 23rd, 2013
I guess it is about time for your annual poison ivy breakout...
32
Anonymous said on May 11th, 2014
Who's megaline down the hill to the right from Sister Catherine? Looks full value...
33
climb2core said on May 11th, 2014
I guess that line is Sister Catherine. I counted lines off a screen shot and apparently there is an abandoned line just right of Crompers 3 that has some old mank on it.
34
Admiral Awkward Beta said on October 23rd, 2014
What's the new line left of Mary Pop-Parazzi? Didn't have a red tag. Pretty cool movement out that steep bit onto a headwall. Fun route, but needs a lot of cleaning up high. I gave it a good brush.
35
Anonymous said on October 23rd, 2014
Pretty sure that is Troy's newest line. "Fresh off the Bone" 11d
36
amarius said on April 5th, 2017
Route between "The Dude Abides" and "Hellava Caucasian" is 5.12b "Cold Hard Bitch"
37
jcook said on May 20th, 2017
What is the route furthest left on the main wall? Its bolted right outside the Rockhouse to the left.
38
Anonymous said on May 25th, 2017
Does anyone know about the route in the ampitheater furthest right? I'm not sure if its tagged or not but it looks blood hard.
39
Rx2Climb said on June 10th, 2017
There are a couple new routes here. Can they be added to the site?
40
ray said on June 10th, 2017
Sure, just email then to [email protected]
41
Anonymous said on August 7th, 2017
Is there a trail to get to the Gallery wall area from Chica Bonita? Thx.
42
aldenbrom said on August 7th, 2017
A trail from Chica Bonita to Gallery would be almost as long as just walking back down to the parking area for Chica Bonita, driving to the parking area for Gallery and walking the trail to sore heel hollow. If you're so inclined I suppose you could top out a route at Chica Bonita, and then walk on top of the cliff and rappel down to Gallery, but that seems like a lot of work. If you look at a topo map of the area you'll see why there's no trail between these areas.