The Sanctuary

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.12 3 2 12 17
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Directions to The Sanctuary

Muir Valley
This wall is in property owned by Muir Valley. Be respectful.
Routes are listed from left to right. If you are coming from the Indy Wall then continue following the cliffline to the right. If you are coming from the Inner Sanctum then follow the cliffline to the left.

Wall Sun: Morning



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Perfidious Deciduous Trad 5.11b
 
55  
Overhanging crack left of the main featured wall of the Sanctuary. Boulder up the initial overhanging crux to a good rest on a ledge. Layback and face climb up good holds to chain anchors. Steepness:

2

Cherry Red Sport 5.14a
 
80
Prominent red streak up the thin overhanging face. This route has seen lots of air time. Steepness:

3

Name Dropper Sport 5.13a
 
70
This route follows the line 15 feet right of Cherry Red. Begin on a low ledge then traverse left to reach the start. Launch up the overhanging face through bulges, big moves, and shrinking rest holds. Steepness:

4

Blue Sunday Sport 5.13a
 
70
Obvious mix of ledges and steep, switching dihedrals/arete that splits the Sanctuary cave in the middle and shares the last few bolts of Peace Frog. Steepness:
Tags
bouldery-2

5

Peace Frog Sport 5.12d
 
80
Just right of the unbolted switching dihedrals is a bolted line with a black stain and a hard start to an obvious flake system. Climb steep initial wall to a good rest. Good climbing on very featured rock proves harder than it looks. Steepness:

6

Hoosier Boys Sport 5.12d
 
80
Begin just right of Peace Frog. Climb up to a roof and move out over the lip to gain the steep face. Climb on sharp pockets to a big sidepull move then move on to more pockets leading to a suspect flake. Carefully climb the flake to gain a less overhanging face leading to a short roof just before the chains. Steepness:

7

Prometheus Unbound Sport 5.13a
 
95
Boulder up and mantle initial face. Access steep face via crimpers. Sustained climbing on good pockets to ok rest before bouldery pocket section at mid height. After good rest, continue up sustained face to small rook with obvious pocket. Permanent carabiner on anchors and tenth bolt. Steepness:
Tags
arete-1

8

Jesus Wept Sport 5.12d
 
95
Hyper classic route located between two small, left-facing dihedrals. Climb out of the amphitheater to a vertical pocketed face. Step right around the roof and follow more pockets to anchors under a final roof. Aesthetic pocket climbing with several cruxes along the way. Use a 60m rope. Steepness:
Tags
classic-3 : pockets-3 : beautiful-2 : shady-1 : dynamic-2

9

Atlas Shrugged Sport 5.12d
 
90
This is the direct start to Jesus Wept. Climb the arete/dihedral straight up to meet Jesus Wept at the 4th bolt. Steepness:

10

Triple Sec (a.k.a. 50 Bucks) Sport 5.12d
 
95
In between Jesus Wept and Immaculate Deception is a beautifully blank yellow-and-black face with small pockets and a few crimps visible. No-hands-rest breaks up the climb after bouldery crux. Good face climbing to deceptive crux near top of wall. Steepness:

11

Buddha Slept Mixed 5.12a
 
100
Climb past the first 3 bolts of "Immaculate Deception" up and left to a good stance below a gorgeous left-leaning crack. Enjoy fine fingerlocking and laybacking until you reach a thin dihedral below the chimney. Crank on up and clip the anchors on Triple Stack (50 Bucks) or continue up the chimney to an exposed ledge with bolted anchors on the right. From here it is also possible to climb a short (but dirty) chimney for another 20 feet to the actual clifftop. Steepness:

12

Immaculate Deception Sport 5.11d
 
90
Start from the ground or a ledge 10 ft up. Begin on two undercling crimps, make a long move to a two-finger pocket. Hang on through the thin crux then relax on the ledge before beginning the balancy and technical arete. Ride the arete and then step left to finish via a sensational overhanging jug-haul to an anchor under the roof. Steepness:

13

Dirty Old Men Trad 5.8+
 
80
Right facing dihedral located right around the corner and uphill from Immaculate Deception. Climb a wide handcrack to a slot. Lieback and jam to an offwidth. Slither up the offwidth to a good stance. Jam to a large ledge and belay. Traverse the ledge left around a corner to anchors. 90 foot rap! Steepness:

14

Cruxifixion Sport 5.12d
 
90
This is the long and aesthetic vertical orange face right of Dirty Old Men. Begin with a difficult boulder problem then mellow out on 5.12b to the chains. Steepness:

15

Blue Collar Sport 5.12b
 
60
This route climbs the face left of "First Fall". Make a big move or a few thin moves to the first bolt then crimp and crank your way to a powerful and technical crux between the 4th and 5th bolts. Steepness:

16

First Fall Trad 5.8
 
60
A must do for the 5.9 trad leader. Start on blocky left-facing dihedral. Climb up then step left to hand crack. Continue through bulge to anchor above ledge. Steepness:

17

Conquistador of the Crumbly (a.k.a. S-crack) Mixed 5.10+
 
75  
Improvise a start to reach the high first bolt. Surpass the bolted bulge then crack climb to a bolt protected traverse. Follow the curving finger/hand/fist crack to a set of anchors inside a high hueco. A good route for climbers wishing to work on their "lead head". Steepness:

Comments

1
Green3 said on March 14th, 2006
I love that new routes our always going up, and I'm thankful for all of Team Muir's work. Just curious when someone might check these routes and fix a few if needed. Cosmic Trigger too, and a few at the solarium. Let me know if I can help. Nick
2
J-Rock said on March 15th, 2006
That's a good question. I've been wondering the same thing.
3
Green3 said on October 18th, 2006
What can I do to help get these routes opened back up? Someone please tell me.
4
squeezindlemmon said on October 18th, 2006
Contact Rick Weber at www.muirvalley.com
5
Green3 said on October 18th, 2006
thanks, I applied for Muir forum membership so I can email.
6
Next Level said on August 12th, 2012
Encountered a rather large copperhead on the trail close to the base of Cherry Red. Be warned!