Inner Sanctum

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.12 3 1 9 13
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Directions to Inner Sanctum

Muir Valley
This wall is in property owned by Muir Valley. Be respectful.
From the Sanctuary continue following the cliffline to the right for ~5-10 minutes until you find more bolts. There is another approach that comes up from the valley floor and meets the cliff beween "Naughty Neighbors" and "Bad Company". The routes start to the right of a gully and the big beautiful bombay chimney with a pocketed roof above it. (This chimney has been declared permanently closed to climbing by the landowners for aesthetic reasons). Routes are listed from left to right.

Wall Sun: Morning



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Tabernacle Sport 5.12a
 
80
From the Sanctuary follow the cliffline right for 200-300 yards (or ~5 minutes) past a small gully. This area is known as The Inner Sanctum. This is the first bolted route encountered. Climb through cryptic moves on the gently overhanging wall on the right side of a corridor. Steepness:

1a

Baer Necessity Sport 5.11
 
60
Walk right from Tabernacle beneath an overhang and look for an obvious hand crack up high. Right of the crack is "Naughty Neighbors" and left of the crack is this bolted route. Climb through a steep layback seam to reach a slightly overhanging face above. Steepness:

2

Naughty Neighbors Sport 5.10d
 
55
Walk right to locate a large ledge which two bolted lines start from. This route is the leftmost of the two starting on the ledge. Ascend incut crimps, sidepulls, pockets, and plates up the slightly overhanging face. Steepness:

3

Bad Company Sport 5.10a
 
50
This is the next bolted route about 10-15 feet right of Naughty Neighbors that also begins on the ledge. Fun vertical climbing on flakes sidepulls, and jugs. Steepness:
Tags
juggy-1

4

The Universe Next Door Trad 5.8
 
55
Just to the right of Bad Company is a discontinuous crack system that jogs right and then back left after a short blank face section. Steepness:

5

Karmic Retribution Sport 5.10d
 
45
Next sport route ~100 feet right of "Bad Company". Begin on a brown streak with positive crimps up a moderate slab up to a prominent rib. Reach left up the steepening face to good pockets and an interesting finish below the large ledge. Steepness:

6

Crack'n Up Trad 5.7
 
50  
10-15 feet right of Karmic Retribution is this easy crack. Walk up the initial wide section to a short offwidth layback followed by a few chimney moves. Find a way past the occasional obstacle which must be surmounted along the way. Steepness:

7

Quaquaversal Crack Mixed 5.8
 
65  
Locate an obvious cave 40 feet up the wall. Begin on the easy right angling flake right of "Crack 'n Up" and climb up and right to a single bolt before entering the giant hueco. Stem, jam, and face climb up and out of the cave. Some exposed stemming will take you to the anchors. Steepness:
Tags
adventerous-1 : short-2 : dihedral-1

8

Netizen Hacktivist Sport 5.9+
 
60
Balance up the steepening slab right of "Crack 'n Up" until you reach an orange water groove. Ascend the sculpted shelves, edges, pinches, and pockets. Watch out for my furry flying 4-legged friends along the way. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-1

9

Cosmic Trigger Sport 5.12b
 
70
Just right of "Netizen Hacktivist" is an obvious black arete with a golden bolted face to the right. Moderate climbing on jugs and pinches leads to a good bouldery crux. Mantle past the final bolt to anchors on roof. Steepness:

10

Cybersex Trad 5.7
 
65  
Approximately 80' right of "Cosmic Trigger" and just left of Psyberpunk is a large flake protected with large gear. Easy climbing leads to a ledge in the middle of the wall. Short crack leads to large ledge. Put in directional and belay off Psyberpunk anchors. Steepness:

11

Psyberpunk Sport 5.11c
 
65
60 ft right of "Cosmic Trigger", past "Cybersex" and a large boulder/flake against the main wall, then up a small ledge. Last route before Stadium Area. Mostly jugs to two crimpy face sections to exit jugs. Steepness:
Tags
crimpy-1 : vertical-1 : fun-2 : technical-1

12

Consenting Adult Sport 5.11b
 
65
More high-quality technical face right of Psyberpunk. Great rock and mellow for most of the ride, but bring your A game for the sustained crux in the middle. Steepness:

Comments

1
bcombs said on January 27th, 2008
I noticed a set of anchors at the top of the crack system left of Naughty Neighbors. There was a single bolt at the bottom. Anyone know anything about the route?
2
512OW said on January 27th, 2008
Conquistador of the Crumbly 5.10+ Its in the book... but not online for some reason...
3
JR said on January 29th, 2008
Conquistador of the Crumbies is listed wrongly under #18 in the Sanctuary.
4
sgauss said on October 20th, 2009
GPS: N 37 degrees 43.919 minutes, W 083 degrees, 38.040 minutes
5
Simeon said on January 29th, 2013
Hello, I put up a route to the left of "Conquistador" and used the same first bolt. I usually try to keep lines independent of one another but knew people would be sucking into the easy corner no matter what. I cleaned the dead tree from the top of "C of the C" and brushed the dead-fall out of the crack. It is good to go now.