Bruisebrothers Wall

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.9 6 2 20 28
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Directions to Bruisebrothers Wall

Muir Valley
This wall is in property owned by Muir Valley. Be respectful.
The following routes are located on the private property of Liz and Rick Weber. Please visit www.muirvalley.com for complete details pertaining to the location of the property. Please respect the landowners' rules by completing a release form available at www.muirvalley.com/release.html before climbing on the land. The directions below begin from the parking area for Muir Valley. The directions to the parking area have been left out to promote a visit to www.muirvalley.com to understand the details of climbing on the property. To reach the routes located at Rebel Branch Hollow, turn right into the first parking area. Follow a steep foot path to the valley floor. Cross the creek and go past the first trail on the left (which goes to Joe Ponder Branch Hollow) and continue on to the next obvious trail to the left. The first wall you come up to at Rebel Branch Hollow is the Bruise Bros Wall. To get to Sunnyside: About 50 yards up the hill to Rebel Branch locate a trail branching across the valley to the right. Follow this for ~300 ft then it will drop down into the clearing. From here veer left over a log bridge then up a short hill. Next follow the obvious path right along the cliff. "Route #24 "Rat Stew" is the last route on the Bruisebrothers Wall (for now), the rest of the routes are on the other side of the hollow at Sunnyside. There are now signs that mark the trail to Sunnyside." --J-Rock. Routes are listed from left to right.

Wall Sun: All day



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Dirt in Eye Trad 5.7
 
40  
The first four routes are located about 30-40 feet uphill and left of the logging road that leads to Bruisebrothers Wall. These routes are located on the small buttress left of the main Bruisebrothers Wall. Climb the handcrack in the short dihedral to a ledge under the first overhang. Once on the ledge step right behind boulder and up to rap hangers on the left side of the heuco. Steepness:

2

Pine Needle Shuffle Trad 5.6
 
50  
A few feet left of "Redriveroutdoors.com" is a broken and wandering crack system with some ledges along the way. Climb the crack to a ledge and traverse left to another crack. Continue up and then make the exciting pine needle traverse to the right through dirt and briars to get past the tree and onto the ledge where you will find the anchors on "Redeye Brew" to the far right. Adventure climbing! Steepness:

3

Redriveroutdoors.com Sport 5.10a
 
40
Leftmost sport route. Ascends a small flake like feature to anchors below the ledge. Steepness:

4

Redeye Brew Sport 5.8
 
45
Climb up past a bolt to gain access to the ledge below the pocketed orange face. Follow solid pockets, edges, and underclings up the middle of the face and top-out onto the ledge. Steepness:

5

Flutterby Blue Sport 5.9
 
40
This is the short sport route on the arete to the left of Tomthievery with a bouldery start. It is the leftmost route at Rebel. There is also a harder direct start for an added challenge. Steepness:

6

Tomthievery (aka The Sultan Returns) Trad 5.8
 
40  
Blocky right facing dihedral 10-15 feet right of Flutterby Blue. Steepness:

6a

Stay Off the Radio Jeff! Sport 5.9+
 
50
This route is 15ft to the right of Tomthievery. Start and finish on the slab and negotiate the daunting roof in the middle. Steepness:

6b

The Bee's Business Sport 5.7
 
50
Next route right of Stay off the Radio. Climb up easy ground to a slight thinning bulge and find the secret hold to reach the anchors. Steepness:

7

Sweet Jane Mixed 5.8-
 
50
Next right facing dihedral right of "Tomthievery". Steepness:

7a

Trundling Kentucky Sport 5.7
 
50
This route is 15ft to the right of Sweet Jane. This route has a little of everything from face moves, jugs and a mantle to get you to the anchors. Clip the anchors high and to the left on the ledge. Steepness:
Tags
pile-1

8

Hey There, Fancy Pants Sport 5.10c
 
55
This is the first sport route right of "Sweet Jane". Follow obvious fingery flake up the vertical face making a couple of long moves along the way. Steepness:

9

Jungle Trundler Sport 5.11a
 
60  
This route is located left of "Little Viper". Bouldery start soon eases to moderate climbing and a short layback fingercrack feature. Next top-out onto the large ledge and enjoy the view. May feel easier for the taller climber. Steepness:

10

Little Viper Sport 5.10b
 
50  
Climb right facing flake to very small roof. Clip 4th bolt, crank boulder problem and follow pockets and edges to the top. Steepness:

11

CH4 Sport 5.8-
 
25
First bolted route right of wild iris patch and intermittent waterfall. Short and fun route under large roof. Steepness:

12

Rising Sport 5.11a
 
30
Steep roof route above "CH4". Can be done in one pitch (then known as "Methane Rising"). Follow 3 more bolts to another chain anchor. Steepness:
Tags
steep-1

13

A-Beano Sport 5.7
 
25
Begin 10-15 ft right of "CH4". Hard first move, heady last move. Steepness:
Tags
fun-4 : short-1

14

Immodium AD Trad 5.7
 
30
Crack right of "A-Beano". Shares anchors with previous route. Steepness:

15

Don't Take Yer Guns to Town Sport 5.10c
 
50
Climb short dihedral to easy slab and big roof. Hand traverse right and make a long move to pull the roof. One move wonder. Steepness:

16

The Offering Sport 5.7
 
45
Begin near right edge of ledge. Follow easy crack system and ledges up and right to an exciting finish. Steepness:
Tags
adventerous-1 : exposed-1

17

The P. Heist Rockway to Heaven Trad 5.6
 
60  
Crack system that begins from the base of "The Offering" up and right to chain anchor on "Get on the Good Foot". Steepness:

18

Put the Best Foot Forward Mixed 5.8-
 
55
This route is a variation finish to Get on the Good Foot. Climb GOTGF until it is possible to step up and left to the bolted face. Follow two bolts up the juggy slab to top-rope anchors just below the ledge. Steepness:

19

Get on the Good Foot Trad 5.7
 
60
Follow right angling crack and flake system 10-15 ft right of "The Offering" and "P. Heist" up and right to chain anchors above the ledge and under the large roof. It is also possible to finish on the anchors of "Send Me On My Way". Steepness:

20

Send Me On My Way Sport 5.9-
 
75
Pluck and plunder the pleasantly plump and plentiful plates left of the leaning crack. Then juice the jugs as they send you on your way to the anchors. Much fun. Highly recommended for the novice leader. Steepness:
Tags
vertical-2

20a

Ohio Climbing Sport 5.8
 
55
Squeezed in-between “Send Me on My Way” and “Working for the Weekend” this juggy 5.8 has a couple of steep sections followed by good rests. Enjoyable climbing leads to chain anchors. Steepness:

21

Workin' for the Weekend Sport 5.10c
 
70
Starts on easy slab. Make a couple of long pumpy moves on a small flake feature. Crimp or undercling through a short crux and pull over a large flake to the anchors. Steepness:

22

Return of Manimal Sport 5.10d
 
85
Moderate slab with big reaches to a giant roof at the top. Steepness:
Tags
long-2 : juggy-3

23

Critters on the Cliff Sport 5.10d
 
75
Begin 15 feet right of Return of Manimal. Balance up the moderate slab to steepening terrain. Reach through the overhanging fingercrack section and stroll past a few more bolts to the anchors. Steepness:

24

Rat Stew Sport 5.10a
 
75
Rightmost route on Bruisebrothers Wall. Balance up the knobby face to a small ledge. Continue cranking up a slightly overhanging face on good holds through two solid black sections to an anchor under the final roof. Enjoyable moves. Easier than it looks. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-1

Comments

1
SCIN said on October 16th, 2006
Cool wall with plenty of moderates on good hard stone. Short techy routes as well as long pumpers.
2
Anonymous said on March 31st, 2008
Hey There, Fancy Pants Just a warning. At the top of this climb is tons of loose stone sitting on the ledge just below the chains. Use caution if setting up for top-rope, you don't want to split any skulls. Fun route.
3
ahab said on March 31st, 2008
didn't you bring your helmet someone? if i've said it once, i've said it a million times: leave those loose rocks be! they make great projectiles for trundling icicles during those winter climbing months (you know, in case you left your helmet @ home).
4
B.J. said on May 9th, 2008
Good concentration of decent, moderately graded climbs. Sees a LOT of traffic on the weekends.
5
JRTrash said on May 11th, 2008
Climbed the line left of Flutterby Blue Today. Unless someone else is claiming it: 40ft, Sing the tree at the top or Rap from anchors on Tomthievery. FA: Andrew Ratliff and Vic Lewis Climb the face left of Flutterby Blue to a ledge, then move over to the short finger crack and climb to the top. Bring slings for the tree on the ledge and a large root for the topout. Takes larger gear than it looks from the ground. Calling it Bumblebee Warfare-5.6
6
saxfiend said on October 29th, 2008
Nice place; I thought I would lose a day to rain on a recent trip until I found this wall. We climbed dry all day.
7
Josephine said on June 27th, 2009
there is a large bee's nest in the ground around the base of Sweet Jane.
8
ynp1 said on June 18th, 2010
What is the bolted line next to Sweet Jane? It has new glue-ins. Also, why did sweet jane get bolted and not left as a mixed climb. Every time I go to BBW there is another bolt on that climb. Now there is one a foot away from the splitter #2 crack... WTF???
9
CLIMBTRAD said on July 19th, 2011
2 new routes to the left of Sweet Jane and 1 right all new glue ins names and grades ????
10
Redpoint said on July 21st, 2011
ynp1, see my comment on Sweet Jane to find out why it was bolted up. CLIMBTRAD, I'm pretty sure there is only 1 new route to the left of Sweet Jane, and I think it said 5.7 in chalk right after it was put up(I climbed it and it's an 8 at most). Sweet Jane is now bolted up and so maybe that is the other one you are referring to. The new route to the right of Sweet Jane said 5.6 in chalk last time I visited.
11
CLIMBTRAD said on July 21st, 2011
1 5.7 right of Sweet jane and 2 on the left before tomthievery and flutterby blue. Climbed them both many times check again
12
Redpoint said on August 19th, 2011
You're right, there is two to the left of Sweet Jane. In order from left to right: it says 5.9 or 10a in chalk, it's glue-ins, has two cruxes, and I give it 4 stars, 5 if it was longer. The next route is also glue-ins, it said 5.7 in chalk but it might be 5.8 due to some high steps, a good route I would give 3 stars to. The next route is Sweet Jane, no longer a mixed route it's completely bolted up now. The next route is mechanical bolts, it said 5.6 in chalk. It's a good route, the crux felt harder than 5.6, but considering the no hands rest directly before it, endurance wise it's a 6. I give it 3 stars.
13
Rollo said on September 4th, 2011
Why aren't these in the guide... I could really use 20pts.
14
ynp1 said on September 21st, 2011
The new routes around sweet Jane are pretty good. The one to the right I thought was 5.7, and the one two to the left (with a roof in the middle) was 5.10-. I would give both 3 stars.