Washboard Wall

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.9 1 3 4 9
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Directions to Washboard Wall

Muir Valley
This wall is in property owned by Muir Valley. Be respectful.
The following routes are located on the private property of Liz and Rick Weber. Please visit www.muirvalley.com for complete details pertaining to the location of the property. Please respect the landowners' rules by completing a release form available at www.muirvalley.com/release.html before climbing on the land. The directions below begin from the parking area for Muir Valley. The directions to the parking area have been left out to promote a visit to www.muirvalley.com to understand the details of climbing on the property. To reach the routes located at Joe Ponder Branch Hollow, turn right into the first parking area. Follow a steep foot path to the valley floor. Cross the creek and follow the first trail on the left to Joe Ponder Branch Hollow. Routes 1-8 are on the Washboard Wall to the left. Routes 14-25 are on the Practice Wall to the right. The others are located between the two walls. After crossing the main creek (Smokey Fork) take the trail on the left and continue into Joe Ponder Hollow. When the trail comes to a junction turn left to reach the gigantic overhanging Washboard Wall. The trail will meet the cliff below a large cave. Routes are listed from left to right. Most of these routes stay dry in a downpour.

Wall Sun: Unknown



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Sierra's Travels Mixed 5.9-
 
45  
Leftmost route to the left of the big cave with a picnic table. Start directly under first bolt. Left hand slopey crimp to a sidepull. Then stand up and follow the obvious line to the anchors. Steepness:

2

Heard It On NPR Sport 5.10d
 
100  
This adventure climb begins with a high first bolt left of Spider Crux. Climb through 65 feet of 5.9 on sometimes questionable holds to reach a ledge. Continue through the overhanging pocketed face for 35 feet to reach the anchors. This route is kind of like NPR because you have to wait a long time for something good. Use a 60 meter rope Steepness:

3

Spider Crux Mixed 5.10b
 
50
Start under a small roof to gain this attractive, right-leaning hand and finger crack. Make a long move then continue up easier ground to a two-bolt anchor on the ledge. Belay, rappel off here, or continue up "Heard It On NPR". Steepness:

4

Cordillera Rojo Sport 5.11a
 
115  
A not so great adventure climb with lots of bad rock on the second pitch.Start immediately right of "Spider Crux" and left of "Barenjager". Follow 4 bolts to the ledge system, rest as long as your conscience will allow, and launch up the unrelenting and imposing headwall above. A 70 meter rope is not long enough to lower off, so it needs to either be done in 2 pitches (there is an intermediate anchor) or the climber will have to figure out how to set up a rappel. Steepness:

5

Barenjager Sport 5.10d
 
40
This route ascends the overhanging face 10-15 ft. right of Spider Crux. Follow a line of 4 bolts up pockets, flakes, and edges to a 2 bolt anchor. Steepness:

6

Brushfire Fairytales Sport 5.11a
 
40
Start 10-15 ft. right of previous route. Similar to Barenjager, but slightly harder with bigger, pumpier moves and a sequential crux. Steepness:

7

Tradmill Trad 5.7
 
40
Climb obvious left-leaning ramp. Step around this obstacle then cruise up the left-leaning ramp over a small bulge. Clip the chain anchors on the left or continue into the cave. Build an anchor in the enormous cave and belay or traverse left along the ledge to "Spider Crux" anchors. Steepness:
Tags
beautiful-1

8

Sticks and Stones Mixed 5.11+
 
35
Begin at base of Tradmill. Climb up to roof and hand traverse 10-15 ft. right to gain handcrack. Place some gear, then crank through the thinning and steepening crack to a good horizontal. Clip the bolt and make the move to the jug. Crimp your way to the anchors. Steepness:

9

Bad Dentures Toprope 5.9
 
70  
First recorded route done in Muir Valley. Walk 100 ft. right of Sticks and Stones. Follow ledge system up to an arete that is often wet. Climb left side of slabby arete to a large ledge with a tree. Steepness:

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