Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 2 - 6 8
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Directions to Slab City

Muir Valley
This wall is in property owned by Muir Valley. Be respectful.
Continue down the gravel access road past the Arsenal for 2 or 3 minutes until you see some steps and a trail leading uphill on your right. For now the sign says "West Wall" (it will be changed to Slab City in the future). This easy trail will soon lead you to an impressive cliff loaded with colorful slabs and technical vert routes. The trail will meet the cliff between "Thrillbillies" and "Elastic Perm". Go left to reach most of the routes.

Wall Sun: Morning

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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Return to Balance Sport 5.11a
 
50
From the top of the trail, head left past several bolted lines. This is the route furthest left on this wall. Locate the sculpted scoop/groove feature on the left side of an attractive wall. Go big at the 3rd bolt and ponder the balancy crux above. Reach left around the arete for a sloper and a hidden pocket or crimp and edge straight up the groove to bigger and better holds. Steepness:

2

Child of the Earth Sport 5.12a
 
60
Move right a few feet from the previous line to the middle of the three sport routes on this section of the wall. Reach through a thin and techy crux to gain the reward of jugs in the pocketed orange rock above. Steepness:

3

Sacred Stones Sport 5.11c
 
65
This is the third bolted line from the left at Slab City. Begin just left of the dihedral "Go West". Footwork, finesse, and balance will be necessary to make it to the high first bolt. Once there the rest of the route is a cake walk with the exception of a long move or two along the way. Steepness:

4

Go West Trad 5.7
 
70
This line ascends the right facing dihedral to the right of the previous bolted lines. Fun climbing the whole way. Steepness:

5

Strip the Willows Sport 5.11b
 
80
This is the first bolted route right of the dihedral "Go West", on the slabby section of the wall. It's called Slab City for a reason. Steepness:
Tags
technical-1

6

Thrillbillies Sport 5.10b
 
90
Begin just right of Strip the Willows on a small pedestal, then trend up and left to thin water grooves, sidepulls, deep horizontals, and plates. Find your way up the featured slab and finish on a large ledge. Take your shoes off at the anchors to relieve your toes. Check out the view, too! Steepness:

7

Flash Point Trad 5.12a
 
45
This is the obvious thin and slightly overhanging crack at the top of the trail. Excellent, powerful, and technical climbing. Steepness:

8

Iron Lung Sport 5.12c
 
50
When the approach trail meets the cliff, veer right to locate this impressive face climb. Begin just right of a large black hueco. Ride the right edge of the hueco then contemplate the blank face from the last point of comfort. When ready, tiptoe out onto the face and crank hard on edges to the anchors. Steepness:

Comments

1
J-Rock said on February 16th, 2006
The numbers on this map will change as more routes are added, but hopefully it will at least show the path to the cliff and the general layout. For now routes 1-4 are labeled correctly.
2
gladhander said on November 8th, 2006
On a sunny fall/winter day the rock heats up nicely. Also great rock quality.
3
SCIN said on November 25th, 2006
Cliff GPS Coordinates: Latitude 37.73277, Longitude 83.64083
4
caribe said on January 28th, 2007
The map is old. There has been much development on this wall since. The Muir valley site does not give detailed maps so I have no idea what the hell I climbed on Friday. Anybody? Anybody, Bueller . . . Beuller?
5
SCIN said on January 28th, 2007
The routes are updated though. I don't think a map is really necessary for most of these small walls with mostly sport lines, do you?
6
caribe said on January 29th, 2007
No, the wall in the above map mark p 5 p p is not up to date. At least one if not two of these p's are open sport routes. I think one of them to the right of the tradline 5 is a 510.something. No, the route list nor the map are up-to-date.
7
SCIN said on January 29th, 2007
All the routes at Slab City are in the route list above.
8
Anonymous said on January 29th, 2007
The routes right of the trad line (Go West) are Strip the Willows and Thrillbillies.
9
woman said on May 6th, 2019
More like sandbag city. Ouch. There was a bail beaner on every single route