Pistol Ridge

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.3 39 1 4 44
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Directions to Pistol Ridge

USFS
This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
Drive 1.4 miles down County Road 1067 from the steel bridge on KY 77 (1.2 miles from the Long Wall parking area). The gravel road changes to asphalt at the Menifee and Powell county line. About a mile farther is a farmhouse and barn on the left and a gravel road on the right (Forest Service Road 9). Turn down that road and proceed 1.1 miles and cross a bridge. This brings you to the intersection of 9A and 9B. Park on your right and hike down 9B about 150 feet until you see the trailhead on your left. Follow the trail through a low limestone cliffband until you reach the base of the wall.

Wall Sun: Late afternoon



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Spinnacle Mixed 5.3
 
45  
As the approach trail nears the cliff you will see a pinnacle. This route is located on the left side of the pinnacle. Climb ledges using the occasional bolt for protection and rappel from the anchors on It's a Wonderful Life. Steepness:

2

It's a Wonderful Life Sport 5.9
 
80
This route ascends the arete on the front of the main pinnacle. Steepness:
Tags
long-1

3

The X Files Trad 5.6
 
65
20 feet right of the pinnacle is a crack system with an X formation midway up. Climb to the X however you want then continue to the top via a wide crack. Steepness:

4

The Misadventures of Nabisco County, Jr. Trad 5.6
 
65  
This wide and dirty crack is located 50 feet right of The X Files. Look for a leaning block at the base. Steepness:

4a

Rubella Trad 5.9+
 
50  
This is the attractive thin crack dihedral and face climb 40 feet right of Nabisco County. Crank through the crux lieback down low then tiptoe your way to a rhodo cluster and small tree above the ledge to rappel. Steepness:

4b

Ol' Yeller Trad 5.7+
 
45
25 feet right of Rubella is this short but attractive dihedral with golden orange rock. Start by chimneying off the tree until you feel like rock climbing, then continue up the fun hand crack and stemming corner above. After a cool finishing mantel, traverse right to a rappel tree. Steepness:

4c

Straight Outta Linville Trad 5.10a
 
50
50 feet right of the obvious Ol' Yeller dihedral is this nice finger crack system that abruptly transitions midway up to adventure face climbing on huge plates. Bring a long sling or two to tie off knobs up top. Rap from a tree out left to descend. Steepness:

5

Symbol Man Bouldering V6
 
50  
Follow the directions to When Doves Cry but walk all the way through the cave and start the crack where it begins in a wide chimney. Undercling the crack, fingerlock out the right roof crack and throw to a handjam in the left. Make your way up into the chimney for a rest then reach down into the starting fists of When Doves Cry and take it to the end. Steepness:

6

When Doves Cry Bouldering V5
 
30
Hop down from the ledge that Crouching Tiger and Hidden Dragon begin from (assuming you are on the ledge) and walk around the cliff to the right. Follow the cliffline until you see a huge roof about 7 feet off the ground with an offwidth crack splitting it. Walk through the cave and start the offwidth where it is narrow enough for a fist jam. Climb all the way through until you can grab a jug 4 feet over the lip. Step off or continue to the top. Steepness:

7

April Flowers Trad 5.8
 
25  
Look for another huge detached block 200 feet right of The Misadventures of Nabisco County, Jr. Climb the left of three cracks to a ledge. Steepness:

8

Leaves of Three, Leave it Be Trad 5.4
 
20
This route ascends the crack directly right of April Flowers. Steepness:

9

Trident Trad 5.9
 
20  
This route ascends the thin crack above the Three Muskateers. The rock is sharp, and the quality is poor. One can traverse over to a tree and rappel, or rappel off some seldom used slings, or downclimb. This route was climbed some time ago by John Bronough. Steepness:

10

T. Rex Trad 5.4
 
20  
This is the offwidth directly right of Leaves of Three, Leave it Be. Steepness:

10a

The Wanderer Trad 5.11a
 
70
Keep wandering right from the Trident to reach this gorgeous crack. A boulder problem start just over the trail leads to enjoyable jams, jugs, and plates on orange rock. Steepness:

10b

Black Friday Trad 5.10b
 
60
10 feet right of The Wanderer is this shallow right-facing dihedral. Tenuous moves on fingerlocks lead to jugs and a spicy mantel up high. Avoid ass-hatting your belayer by placing plenty of tiny cams down low. Rap from a tree out left to descend. Steepness:

10c

Knitting Club Trad 5.9+
 
90
This is the double crack system in a left-facing dihedral 50 feet right of Black Friday. The first pitch is an excellent 55-foot 5.7. Rap from a tree here, or continue up the steep "Ethiopian offwidth" crack of pitch 2 (5.9+), standing on a tree to get established. Without this tree the pitch is easily 5.11. Rap from a tree to descend. Steepness:

11

People Gully Trad 5.1
 
35  
From Armed, wander 200ft to the right, down the cliff. Find a 50' cul-de-sac with mossy ledges. A sizable clean crack is near the right-hand wall. Climb the crack and jugs up to a rhodo garden. Wander up to the top if desired. Steepness:

12

Land of the Glass Pinecones Trad 5.6
 
50
Walk 110 feet right of Armed around a corner and up a small hill. Find a dihedral and chimney system with two cracks, a thin flake on the left and an offwidth on the right. Work up the two cracks to a ledge on the right, then climb the outside of a chimney with large holds. At the top, climb a short wall on the right to reach a large, talus-covered ledge with a low rockhouse. Steepness:

13

Hidden Dragon Trad 5.12c
 
50
This route ascends the splitter offwidth roof crack about 30 feet right of Crouching Tiger. Steepness:

14

Crouching Tiger Trad 5.11b
 
50
Walk to the right of Armed about 150 feet to a dirty gully. Scramble up the gully which brings you to the top of the ledge above and to the right of Armed. On top of this ledge you will see two offwidth cracks splitting a roof. Crouching Tiger ascends the left of the two cracks. Steepness:

15

Armed Trad 5.10b
 
55
Hike left past the pinnacle near where the trail meets the cliff, through a boulder field, down a hill, then back up the hill towards the cliff. When the trail meets the cliff again, walk to the left and look for an obvious hueco in the wall about 5 feet up. This route climbs to the hueco then continues up through the crack to some anchors. Steepness:

16

Double Helix Trad 5.6
 
40
This route ascends twin curving cracks located on an outside corner 40 feet left of Armed. Stop when you reach a ledge. Formerly one could traverse 10 feet right to some fixed gear, which doesn't seem to be around any longer. One can traverse farther to the anchors of Armed, or downclimb. Steepness:

17

Two-Way Trap Trad 5.2
 
15  
Steepness:

18

A Fresh Start Trad 5.10c
 
40  
About 30 feet right of Ride 'em Cowboy is a gully. Scramble up this gully to access a ledge. Walk left to spot a fingercrack with a low overhang. Climb the fingercrack to rappel anchors. Steepness:

18a

Stale Finish Trad 5.10b
 
25  
Short, stout, wide crack up on the ledge system 10 feet right of A Fresh Start. Steepness:

19

Ride 'em Cowboy Trad 5.7
 
40
This is the obvious left-facing flake 70 feet left of Double Helix. Steepness:

20

Gunsight Gully Trad 4th
 
15  
Steepness:

21

Dave Cave Trad 5.1
 
20  
In Gunsight Gully, find a pathway on the left which leads to a wide ledge above The Refrigerator. Chimney up and squeeze between two chockstones to the top. Steepness:

22

Sonic Tunnel Trad 5.4
 
30  
In the back of Gunsight Gully is a chimney with a hanging boulder. Climb over the boulder to a tunnel which gives a view of the other side of the ridge. Steepness:

23

Supergun Trad 5.9
 
20
Climb the dirty gully 20 feet left of Ride 'em Cowboy and look for a short, overhanging hand and fist crack on the right wall of the upper level. Steepness:
Tags
fun-1 : short-1 : offwidth-1 : hands-1 : fists-1

24

Please Don't Feed the Triceratops Sport 5.7
 
35
This bolted route is located just left of the gully leading to Supergun. Steepness:

25

Danger Mouse Sport 5.8
 
35
This is the bolted route just left of Don't Feed the Triceratops. Steepness:

26

The Refrigerator Trad 5.8-
 
40
About 100 feet left of the gully leading to Supergun is an alcove with a large block in it. Climb the right side of the block then up into a cave. Exit the cave then finish to a ledge via an offwidth. Steepness:

27

Refrigerator Left Trad 5.8-
 
40
Climb the left side of the block mentioned in The Refrigerator, then move up the dihedral and face left of the cave to the top or left to a rap station. Steepness:

28

Skywalker Trad 5.4
 
40  
Climb The Refrigerator to the roof then traverse to the anchors on Chem Studs. Steepness:

29

Chem Studs Sport 5.10a
 
30
This route climbs the bolted face left of The Refrigerator. Steepness:

30

Way Of The Peaceful Warrior Trad 5.10a
 
0  
Starts just a few feet left of Chem Studs. Boulder up to the arching overhang and traverse right (passing over top of Chem Studs) and up through the overhang that is the finish of The Refrigerator. Steepness:

31

Welcome to Bosnia Trad 5.7
 
70  
This route ascends the offwidth 80 feet left of The Refrigerator. Steepness:

32

Bitchmobile Trad 5.8
 
55
This is the finger and hand crack 40 feet left of Welcome to Bosnia. Steepness:
Tags
classic-1 : fingers-1 : beautiful-2

33

Dreams Bouldering V3
 
0
Head about a 100 yards past Bitchmobile to a small ampitheather. This is the obvious problem is the on the slightly overhanging face of the free standing boulder. Steepness:

34

Edge of Night Trad 5.8+
 
40
Just past Dreams is another large amphitheater with an intimidating dihedral that has not been climbed and a gorgeous face to the left. 100 feet right of the big dihedral is this short lieback and handcrack leading to a ledge with an old bolt anchor. Steepness:

35

The Brady Bunch Trad 5.3
 
25  
Continuing a couple minutes left of the amphitheater is a 25' detached block forming a pinnacle. The easiest way up is the chimney system inside, which takes decent protection on both walls. Using only the flakes on the pinnacle itself bumps it to 5.8. Trees and boulders on top of the pinnacle can be slung to set up a variety of arete climbs up the block from 5.8 to 5.11. Steepness:

36

Masters of Rubble Trad 5.8
 
50  
Just past Dreams is a massive intimidating 150' dihedral system with some bat guano midway that has not been climbed. Another 3 minutes beyond this is a squeeze offwidth in a fractured section of rock that leads to a ledge with an old bolt anchor. Offwidth and squeeze up the chunky crack, being careful not to knock blocks on your belayer below. Do not trust the ancient webbing to descend. The gorgeous obvious left-facing dihedral remains unclimbed. Steepness:

37

Schnoo-Schnoo Trad Unknown
 
55  
This is the next offwidth and hand crack system left of Rubble, traversing left and then back right to the same old anchor on the ledge. Steepness:

38

Solar Flare Trad 5.12b
 
100
Another 200' left of the previous dihedral is a 45' grey licheny slab leading to one of the most spectacular finger cracks in the Red. Start pitch 1 in the blocky corner of Thunderbolt Mountain, then immediately trend right towards a horizontal and thin positive fingerlocks with bad feet (5.11-). Belay on the ledge from the anchor for Thunderbolt Mountain. Pitch two launches up the obvious fingercrack in the orange headwall above (5.12), protected mostly by small cams. A #3 or 4 Camalot is useful at the first belay. Steepness:

39

Thunderbolt Mountain Trad 5.4
 
55
This unique beginner's climb is located near the left end of the feasible cliff-line. Follow a low-angle, left-leaning crack and face to a series of horizontals, up through two ledges, and traverse right with good protection to a set of anchors above a third ledge. Steepness:

40

The Unknowable Trad 5.10c
 
90  
Another 200' left is the last crack system before the cliff finally gives up and breaks down. Belay from a precarious log stance, trending up and right on technical grey slab with one medium cam or nut (5.10). Chill on the ledge then launch into the spicy roof and sustained crack system above, with a phenomenal last-move crux in the orange rock above. Do your best to protect your second on this move and rappel from a tree to the right to descend. Steepness:

Comments

1
Jerry Bargo said on December 9th, 2004
"Way of the Peaceful Warrior", 5.10 starts just a few feet left of Chem Studs. Boulder up to the arching overhang and traverse right (passing over top of Chem Studs) and up through the overhang that is the finish of The Refridgerator. FA: Jerry Bargo and Steve Must, 1998
2
Ascentionist said on February 1st, 2006
GPS for Gunsight Notch: 37.8673N, 83.6728W, Spinnacle: 37.8630N, 83.6743W
3
soccerfast007 said on October 10th, 2007
Anyone climb the off width to the right of Fresh Start? looks killer if you have a few big bro's sitting around or if fear is not a factor for you! just curious...
4
JR said on October 11th, 2007
The OW to the right of Fresh Start was sent in 2001 by Dave Texter and Justin Riddell. Dave called it Stale Finish 5.10-
5
Lander said on May 11th, 2008
it looks like this isn't the get-away crag it used to be. a lot of people showed up today.
6
Josephine said on May 12th, 2008
poison ivy on the approach trail
7
MSMITH said on May 14th, 2008
Its the woods... Poison Ivy is a given