Bronaugh Wall

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.12 1 1 17 19
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Directions to Bronaugh Wall

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
This wall is located off the trail a few minutes before you reach Purgatory in the Sore Heel Hollow climbing area. Follow directions to Purgatory and look for a wooden sign marking the wall on the left.

Wall Sun: Unknown

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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

My Mind Escapes Me Sport 5.10a
 
55
Climb the aesthetic brown water groove. Starts to the left of the large Hemlock. Route is to the left of Spyder's Hang out and around the corner from the main wall. Steepness:

1a

Fever Pitch Sport 5.10d
 
45  
Right of My Mind Escapes Me. Steepness:

1b

Spyder's Hangout Sport 5.10a
 
40  
Just left of 5.10 Until Lee and Jeff Do It, which is just left of Little Teapot. Equipped by Dwight Bradburn. Steepness:

1c

5.10 Until Lee and Jeff Do It Sport 5.9
 
50  
Starts on the jug rail that everyone used to hang on just because. However, now you get to continue up on comfy pocket jugs on a slightly overhanging face. This will be a great warm up for the crag or fun line for the up and coming crushers. Steepness:

2

Little Teapot Sport 5.12a
 
45
This is the first bolted line encountered from the left edge of the wall. Begin on a sloping shelf power up the short black face to the chains. Steepness:

2a

Muffintop Sport 5.10d
 
65  
Start just left of Jingus on a ramp of sorts leading to big jugs and a tricky move or two. This is a great warmup or a good route for those breaking into harder 5.10s. Steepness:

3

Jingus Sport 5.11b
 
55
Move right from the previous line about 15 feet to the next bolted line. Climb a steep start then continue through pinches and ledges to the anchors. Steepness:

4

Collision Damage Sport 5.11d
 
50
Move right from the previous line to the next line which takes on a more overhanging section of the wall. Pump through pinches and pockets to reach the more vertical but slightly licheny finish. Steepness:

5

Crumblies Sport 5.12a
 
55
Step about 5 feet right from the previous line to locate this adventure. Shoot for a high pinch to start then move up to a 50 pound flake waiting to blow. Tread lightly around the flake then play continue up the right angling face on holds which magically disappear when you're done or while you are using them. Steepness:

6

Belly of the Beast Sport 5.12c
 
60
This is the fifth line from the left side of the wall and the last line on this section of the wall. Begin under a roof and yard out on jugs to gain the overhanging face. Climb through long moves on good holds to a well defined crux. Keep it together for the rest of the route because it ain't over. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-1 : steep-1

6a

Spread Eagle Trad 5.11a
 
90  
The intimidating corner tucked in to the right of Belly offers up some of the craziest moves and most bizarre positions in the Red. Burl out the crux start in the left chimney/crack, then shimmy up the offwidth and out the hanging chimney system, clipping the Dirty Girl anchor if you are light on big cams. Save a finger sized piece or two for the exit. The right start would would probably bump this down into the 5.10 range, but expect some loose rock. Bring several large cams in the BD 5-6 range, and a decent amount of everything else. Belay or lower from the ledge anchor for the slab sport route right of Dirty Girl. Steepness:

6b

Dirty Girl Mixed 5.10a
 
50
Directly behind Belly of the Beast is this mossy seam which fades after 40 feet and turns to mossy face protected by 2 bolts. Steepness:

6c

Nanotechnology Sport 5.11b
 
70
The cool wavy slab tucked in the corridor across from Belly of the Beast. Tiptoe and balance up some great 5.10 moves to a techy and insecure crux at the 5th bolt. Continue to the top via an interesting squeeze finish shared with Spread Eagle. Steepness:

7

Two Women Alone Sport 5.11a
 
50
From Belly of the Beast step down to the other side of the wall to locate this and the next route. Climb through thin holds and plates on a vertical wall. Steepness:

8

Like a Turtle Sport 5.11b
 
55
Move down the hill 15 feet right from Two Women Alone. Boulder through the start to reach large plates. Crank up to an iron oxide turtle head then continue up through ledges and crimps to a bulge. Pull through the bulge to reach a good rest then shoot for the anchors. Steepness:

9

Take the Scary Out of Life Sport 5.10d
 
70  
Start off a large flat boulder climbing on plates, sharp edges and incuts to a mild bulge. Follow a disappearing crack to a distinct crux. Steepness:

9a

Bring Up the Bodies Sport 5.11c
 
90  
Named after award-winning British novel this route starts on the ground to the right of Take the Scary Out of Life. Ascends the left side of giant hueco on friable looking but solid rock before angling gently up to the right through side pulls, underclings, crimps, pinches and pockets to a definitive crux after which the pace slows to a cautious finish. Thoughtful movement with plenty of plot twists that keeps you guessing and your attention all the way to the end. Steepness:

9b

Upworthy Sport 5.10c
 
70  
Fun direct pull-up start on an obvious two-handed jug, or follow easier terrain to the left to get started. Climb up on a wide ledge at the bottom of a huge hueco moving to the right, then up and over a brown stair step-like bulge. Head straight up on positive pockets and plates towards an obvious prow passing on the left over a pair of thin shelves. After passing a fixed draw on the left side move up and traverse back right finishing on gently steepening rock on deep, sinker pockets to the anchors. Steepness:

10

The Odyssey (Closed Project) Sport 5.11+
 
160  
Center of cave to the right of Bronaugh Wall. Slightly pumpy. Will open after some more cleaning. If you'd like to check it out in the meantime then ask the equipper. Equipped by Adam Taylor. Steepness:

Comments

1
allah said on March 23rd, 2006
I thought that Alex did one of these routes before he passed.
2
Anonymous said on March 23rd, 2006
Is there a new sign up now saying "Bronaugh Wall" instead of "Inner Circle" or did a certain "someone" take that down and hide it too. Hopefully she'll stop trying to hide the trail with tree branches...
3
Anonymous said on March 24th, 2006
Maybe someone will kill themselves soloing
4
pigsteak said on March 28th, 2006
so all these unknown routes..are they open to climb?
5
SCIN said on November 25th, 2006
Parking Area GPS Coordinates: Latitude 37.65139, Longitude 83.71667
6
anticlmber said on September 23rd, 2007
if you haven't been to this wall don't waste your time it sucks. it's crowded, the bolts all suck, the grades are super fluffed, and choss, choss, choss.
7
pigsteak said on November 26th, 2007
great place to get away....you joker anti..you joker...
8
caribe said on May 8th, 2008
This is one of the prettiest lil crags in the Red.
9
hypro said on November 27th, 2011
Any word on the new route going up in the ampatheatre down the hill???
10
climb2core said on May 5th, 2013
Very fun, aesthetic movements. If you are 5.10 climber, this is in still in your wheel house... Do get on it.
11
climb2core said on May 5th, 2013
Above comment was meant for Two Women Alone.
12
dustonian said on October 7th, 2013
What's up with the toprope and draws hanging right of Take the Scary Out? Just curious.
13
Shannon said on October 7th, 2013
My rope and draws, Dustin, on a new route.
14
dustonian said on October 7th, 2013
Cool, looks fun!
15
Anonymous said on October 7th, 2013
We were there Fri and just x's were marked for bolts. Dustin must have a development radar running 24/7. Kipp seemed awfully jealous those weren't his x's.
16
dustonian said on October 7th, 2013
Development radar? The rope and draws have been there a while, left of all the x's. I'm all for more climbing on that wall, it's nice.
17
Anonymous said on October 7th, 2013
Oops, no there is a line of x's between Take the Scary Out and Shannon's line. I thought it had gotten bolted over the week end. I misunderstood
18
Shannon said on October 7th, 2013
Ah I see, Dustin, you weren't necessarily asking what's up with the rope and draws but why they are still there for an extended time :) Well, truth be told I left them up for a couple of reasons...one to signal that someone was doing route development in the area. On numerous occasions I have rapped the line to the right of the rope, using my own rope and draws, by myself and with others, placing cams to look for anchor placement, inspect the rock quality, etc., and twice rapping to decide about the tree, what and how to trim. I haven't seen the "x's" but I will go out there and check it out. Thanks
19
dustonian said on October 7th, 2013
No rush, just wondering if they were abandoned or their owner was coming back. Thanks for the great routes!
20
Shannon said on October 11th, 2013
Ok, to try to clear up any confusion...there is a new route (soon to be open) to the immediate right of Take the Scary Out of Life bolted by me, estimated to be 11+. It is NOT Adam Taylor's awesome mega project in the center of the cave to the far, far right also listed facetiously as a 11+. Hope to have at least another moderate route, two to the (immediate) right of Take the Scary Out of Life up this fall.
21
Anonymous said on October 11th, 2013
I am sure Adam will appreciate that distinction ;)
22
tamtej said on June 25th, 2018
Is there a bear? My climbing partner and I were at Bronaugh Wall yesterday (6-24-18) and were just right of Belly of the Beast scoping out Spread Eagle. We heard several higher pitched growling sounds from the cave in that alcove and immediately retreated to outside the alcove. The growling sounds continued for a minute and stopped. We left the crag to go climb elsewhere.
23
Anonymous said on June 26th, 2018
Locals mating ritual more than likely...My guess is that they were performing the spread eagle portion of the ceremony. You should have joined in. They frequently use gumby blood in their elixir.