What About Bob Wall

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.7 10 1 22 33
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Directions to What About Bob Wall

This wall is on private property. Be respectful. Sign required waivers.
From SH parking lot walk towards the old approach trail, opposite end of the parking lot from the Gallery, Volunteer Wall approach trail. Take the right trail and walk till you cross a stream. After you cross the stream you will see a trail heading up left. Follow this up. The 1st trail on your right(just cut and not racked so its hard to see) will take you to WS-FD. The second(not finished but will be soon) trail on the right will lead to G-OR.The left branch will take you the the remainder of the routes. All other walls listed on this side can be approach by following the cliff line trail left. Alternate, easier approaches from the parking lot will be given for each wall.

Wall Sun: Unknown

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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

0a

The Phoenix Sport 5.11d
 
50
This route shares the start with King Solomon. After working through the low crux head up and left fighting through some hard crimping that begins to ease after a couple of bolts. Steepness:

0b

King Solomon Sport 5.12b
 
50
This route shares a start with The Phoenix. Make a few moves out a steep roof and crank hard through a low crux. Take a shake, then cut right and get ready for fun sequential and sustained crimping that eases up at the last bolt. Steepness:

1

Farewell Drive with a Spit in the Eye Trad 5.11a
 
50
Take a right at the top of the What About Bob Wall trail and walk a few hundred yards right and locate two enormous roof cracks about 40ft. apart from each other. This is the right roof crack. Work up the initial handjams and maneuver yourself into the offwidth/chimney. Carefully traverse the roof until you can flip over the lip. Steepness:

2

Stuck Buckeye Trad 5.8
 
75
This is the left roof next to Farewell Drive. Hands to squeeze chimney in a overhanging dihedral, good luck if you go for the direct exit, be small or be stuck. Enjoy ! Steepness:

3

Threat Level Blue Sport 5.9
 
35  
From WS walk right around the corner to find this short sport line with some fun moves. Steepness:

4

Cultural Wasteland Trad 5.9
 
35  
From WS walk around the corner and you will see this short trad line with some cool moves. Steepness:

5

Stem Cell Sport 5.10a
 
55  
35 feet right of WS and at the top of the scramble you will find this interesting sport line. Stem between the boulder and face to start and make committing move to gain the face. Climb face and arete angling left to anchors. Not stemming the boulder looks hard but do able . Stick clipping the fist bolt is recommended. 5th bolt may be added Steepness:

6

Tobacco Crack Ho Trad 5.8
 
45  
20 feet right of WS you will see this face. Climb chossy pockets to a ledge that appears ready to blow. Step right and get your first decent piece of pro. Make a cool move using face holds at the dihedral to top out. Move left to belay. Reach down to gain anchors on a sport project to rap from. Steepness:
Tags
sharp-1 : short-1 : pockets-1 : contrived-1

7

Tumble Dry Low Sport 5.12b
 
45  
Going up the WABW take the first trail on the right(its a new trail and not finished). Go to a scramble with a fixed rope. This is the sport route with anchors only to the left of Weathertop Stings. Steepness:

8

Weathertop Stings Sport 5.10b
 
45
Going up the WABW take the first trail on the right(its a new trail and not finished). Go to a scramble with a fixed rope. This is the sport route on the left hand side of the ledge. Steepness:

9

Optical Rectitus Sport 5.11a
 
50  
As the approach trail meets the main wall near a large boulder, the trail forks left and right. If you take the right fork and head up to the cliff about 30 more feet you will arrive just beneath this bolted line up a blunt arete. Steepness:

10

Hole Trad 5.8
 
40  
Coming from the main WAB trail take the right trail and look for 3 short trad lines and one sport line close together. This is the right of the three cracks. Start in a wide, left-facing dihedral that quickly pinches down. Make your way up the arching crack to the shared anchors of Maximus. Anchors will be added soon.Please do not take the cam that's pretending to be the anchor. Steepness:

11

Maximus Trad 5.9
 
40
This is the center of the three cracks. Climb a hand crack in a right facing dihedral over a few ledges to a fixed piece. Anchors will be added soon. Please do not take the cam. Steepness:

12

Gluteus Trad 5.9
 
45  
This is the left of the three cracks right in a row. Climb an offwidth pod to a wide hands crack. Trickier than it looks. Anchors will be added soon. The rhodo may or may not hold another lower Steepness:

12a

Hirsute Sport Grade Unknown
 
60  
At the top of the right trail, left of Gluteus, are 4 bolted lines. This is the first bolted line left of the cracks and takes on a less than vertical wall. Begin on large holds and make a few long moves to reach a 3 bolt blank section. Have fun figuring it out if you can. Steepness:

12b

Running in Place Sport Grade Unknown
 
40  
About 40 feet left of the previous line is a crack system leading to a vertical face. Begin by climbing the crack, clip a bolt, then plug gear up to a bulge where the crack ends and the face climbing begins. Steepness:

12c

Gild the Lily Sport Grade Unknown
 
50  
Just left of the mixed line is another crimpfest on black rock. Steepness:

12d

Pongosapien Sport 5.11d
 
50  
Leftmost line on this wall. Climb to a low ledge, grab a flake, and dig through your bag of tricks to reach a pair of small crimps on the face. Crimp hard for a few bolts then relax on easier fun climbing passing through a body sized hueco just before the chains. Steepness:

13

Open Project - What About Bob Wall Sport Grade Unknown
 
0
As the approach trail meets the main wall near a large boulder, the trail forks left and right. If you take the left fork this is the first bolted line you reach just past a large boulder. Think you got slab skills ? Hop on it and see. Steepness:

14

Kentucky Flu Sport 5.10c
 
80
15 feet left of the open project you will find this arete/water groove. Make fun thin technical moves and be sure to soak in the view from the top. Steepness:
Tags
vertical-2

15

Adventures of the Leper Nurse Trad 5.9
 
50
25 feet left of Kentucky Flu you will see the obvious dihedral. Get thuggish and enjoy Steepness:

16

Code Red Sport 5.12d
 
80
10 feet left of Adventures of the Leper Nurse is the start of this amazing face route. Begin with heart stopping thin moves. Pull the first 4 bolts, you've got this one in the bag.Almost. Steepness:

17

Duputyren's Release Sport 5.12b
 
80
10 feet left of Code Red. Equipped by Kipp Trummel. Steepness:

18

GSW Sport 5.12a
 
80  
This line ascends the arete 10 feet left of the previous line. Steepness:

19

Drip Wire Sport 5.11a
 
80  
Move 20 feet left from the arete to the next bolted line, which has a high first bolt. Climb through a slightly dirty start to reach a roof. Hyper-extend or heel-hook and lock-off to surmount the roof. Claw up to the chains on small to non-existent edges. Steepness:

20

Dr Synchro Sport 5.12a
 
95
50 feet left of Dripwire is this excellent slab route. Make some long moves to moderate terrain. Pull the bulge and get your face game rolling. If you TR this route unclip the 2nd from the anchors to prevent rope drag. Steepness:

20b

Brass Gunkie Mixed 5.10
 
100
High quality stemming and liebacking up the steep corner right of No Sleep Til Campton. Start on the first 4 bolts of that route, then traverse a bit right to get a couple small-to-medium pieces in a pocket and small crack. Continue up the orange face to the corner system (#5 or 6 useful but not mandatory) and follow that out to another rightward traverse on good holds, then a hand crack up to a nice ledge system with another bolt. Clip this and keep it together for the crux moves leading to the anchor. If you attempt to lower off from the anchor, a 60m rope may not make it all the way to the ground, although there is a good ledge about 40' up to belay your second from. Steepness:

21

No Sleep Till Campton Sport 5.10b
 
80
Walk left 70 feet from Dr Synchro until you reach a dip in the traill. This sport route starts when the trail starts back up hill and just above a low overhang. Balance your way to the roof, commit to the moves and be rewarded with a bomber hand jam. Pull the roof and continue to the anchors. Steepness:
Tags
crimpy-2 : long-1 : confusing-1

22

Alternative Medicines Trad 5.7
 
75
25 feet left of No Sleep Till Campton. Long and enjoyable crack system. Shares anchors with No Sleep Till Campton. Steepness:

22a

The Speed of Enzo Sport 5.10c
 
60
Named after a not so speedy wayward Beagle found near PMRP. Starts 10 feet left of Alternative Medicines on solid edges past a few bulges and ledges leading to iron imbued pale gray sandstone covered with orange lichen. Climbing steepens slightly near mid-point and the holds change to shallow pocket, crimps and pinches. Work your way up and over a couple more mild bulges using the occasional pockets, sidepulls, jugs and undercling. Follow the path of least resistance traversing to the right at the last bolt around the bulge on good feet then up through killer fin-like runnels to the anchors. Steepness:

23

Brothel Doc Sport 5.11a
 
75
Walk left about 100 feet until you reach an overhanging featured arete where the trail heads sharply uphill. This line begins 15 feet left of the arete. Stick clip the first bolt and begin with a bouldery start and enjoy the tricky moves that follow. The first set of anchors are for Kindred Spirits, this sport line goes to the top. Steepness:

24

Kindred Spirits Trad 5.11a
 
60  
Inside the cave 20 feet left of Brothel Doc is a wide crack which gradually pinches down as you near the lip. Use some technical stemming and pull a Houdini move or two as you dance and twirl your way up this one. Keep working out the dihedral/roof to a no hands rest pod before pulling the last few moves in a hand crack to reach the bolted anchors. Steepness:

25

Bowling Pain Sport 5.11c
 
80
Move 50 feet left of Brothel Doc to the next bolted line. Climb a slab past a small roof at the 3rd bolt. Continue up and over a right-angling arete to take on a heavily featured overhanging headwall. Steepness:

Comments

1
gladhander said on October 22nd, 2006
If you can't find the climbs you can just go to RIVAL WALL(which is easier to find) and follow the wall to the right as you face it. It's a short, easy walk to Bowling Pain.
2
SCIN said on November 25th, 2006
Parking Area GPS Coordinates: Latitude 37.65139, Longitude 83.71667
3
JR said on September 3rd, 2007
I heard a rumor that the sport routes on these walls were going to have stiffer grades than Muir valley. After sampling some on the routes I suspect this was more than a rumor.
4
Lander said on July 7th, 2008
what about pile?
5
Josephine said on July 8th, 2008
the approach trail goes through a hornet's nest. all 3 members of our party were stung. on the return we bushwhacked through the rhodos to avoid that area. might be worthwhile to hike up to Rival Wall to avoid that issue.
6
RRO said on July 8th, 2008
hmmm, quite a few routes there are concensus high ratings and are def not piles. if you went right, those routes kinda suck. maybe you need some new slab shoes.....
7
Anonymous said on April 11th, 2019
Power line down as you pass Trailhead and get to the parking lot of sore heel.