Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 3 - 9 12
loading

Directions to Rival Wall

This wall is on private property. Be respectful. Sign required waivers.
From the parking lot cross the foot bridge on the left to reach the wide road. Follow the road for about 150 feet and look for the first trail to the right when you reach the top of the first hill. Follow the trail for 50 feet until you reach the cliff. Routes 1-8 are right of where the approach trail meets the wall and routes 9-10 are left of where the approach trail meets the wall.

Wall Sun: Unknown

{show overview map}


Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Hatfield Sport 5.10d
 
80
When you reach the cliff from the approach trail there will be three bolted lines to your left. This is the furthest left line. A long and sustained pumper which doesn't offer as many tasty iron oxide jugs as the line to the right. Your forearms might be screaming as you clip the chains. Steepness:

2

Delayed Gratification Sport 5.10c
 
80
This line is located just right of Hatfield. Follow a blunt arete making long moves to good iron oxide slots along the way. Fun route. Steepness:

3

McCoy Sport 5.10c
 
70  
This is the first bolted route at the head of the trail and the third from the right. Begin with an off balance and reachy start to reach some blocks which require a bit of trickery to move past. Continue on less brain-demanding moves to the anchors. Steepness:

4

Epic Indicator Trad 5.9+
 
70  
Walk right from where the approach trail meets the wall, head up a couple switchbacks, and turn left. This route is left of the following 2 sport routes at the top of the trail. Walk out onto the ledge to the left of the chimney when the ground falls away to locate a short overhanging hand crack that starts about 5ft. off the ground. Work up the crux hand crack and onto the face above on good holds. Continue to work up the crack with questionable gear to the top of the wall. Rap from tree Steepness:

4a

Tourette Syndrome Sport 5.11a
 
75
This route is approximately 60 feet right and around the corner of McCoy on the slightly overhanging pocketed face that is in between McCoy and the Rorschach Inkblot Test. Start just right of a big tree and head to the first ledge. Navigate gaining the upper head wall and continue up enjoyable holds to the anchors. Steepness:

5

Rorschach Inkblot Test Sport 5.8+
 
50
This is the first bolted line right of the approach trail and is located just right of Epic Indicator. Begin on a ledge and surmount the low overhang making use of whichever holds you can find. Continue on larger holds to the anchors. Steepness:

6

Monobrow Sport 5.10a
 
50
Move a few feet right from Rorschach Inkblot Test to the next bolted line just left of an arete. Climb the face making use of the arete when you're at a loss for holds. Steepness:

7

The Cheerleader Catch Trad 5.6
 
55
This is the wide, left facing dihedral just right of Monobrow. Chimney up the dihedral to an anchor at the top. If you're short on Big Bros, fiddle in a small cam or nut at about 1/3rd height then run it to the top. Top out or lower from the anchors on Monobrow. Steepness:

8

Cork Eye Sport 5.12a
 
55  
15 feet right from Cheerleader Catch is a corridor. On the right side of the corridor is a pocketed and slightly overhanging face which hosts this and the following sport lines. Steepness:
Tags
shady-2

9

Lobster Claw Sport 5.12a
 
55
Move a few feet right from the previous line to the next bolted line. Begin just right of a low hueco. Climb large pockets to reach the first bolt then precisely stab your way through tiny pockets to a breather near the top. Don't get too confident because you still have to make it to the chains. Steepness:
Tags
pockets-1 : technical-1 : bouldery-1

10

Days of Thunder Sport 5.9
 
60
Move right and just around the corner from Lobster Claw to the next bolted line. Climb a dirty start to gain better rock above. Take on a slopey crux near the top then run it on jugs to the anchors. Steepness:
Tags
contrived-1

11

May As Well Trad 5.7
 
80  
This line follows the crack system just right of Days of Thunder. Work you way up the initial wide crack that starts on top of a small roof, and then traverse left to gain another crack. Work up the cracks and pods to a ledge with several small trees. Continue up to a higher ledge and larger trees to rappel or bail from the anchors on Days of Thunder. Steepness:

Comments

1
ray said on October 2nd, 2006
I think the Jared route is left of Lobster Claw. Kipp?
2
pigsteak said on October 2nd, 2006
no, that's my route..just bolted it last week.
3
SCIN said on October 2nd, 2006
I only saw two lines right of the lines on the ledge (2-3). They were both on the right side of the hollow. Do you know which line is Jared route?
4
pigsteak said on October 2nd, 2006
both of the lines in the hallway are mine....the right one is lobster claw, the other one un named. I know Jared bolted something around the corner 20 feet going up a slab....it may not be done yet.
5
SCIN said on October 2nd, 2006
Okay, thanks. I did see one lone bolt on the arete just right of your lines. That must be it.
6
jamlawyer said on October 15th, 2006
Can anyone tell me what parking lot this is?
7
Wolf said on October 16th, 2006
The Sore Heel Parking lot. The same one as Purgatory, Volunteer, Gallery, etc.
8
Anonymous said on October 23rd, 2006
Some of these routes appear to be out of order.
9
SCIN said on October 23rd, 2006
Which lines are out of order? I'm pretty sure they're in the correct order. Did you notice in the directions above that routes 1-8 are to the right and 9-10 are to the left of the approach trail?
10
Ascentionist said on October 24th, 2006
Sorry, I mixed them up for fun over the weekend and forgot to put them back in the right order.
11
SCIN said on November 25th, 2006
Parking Area GPS Coordinates: Latitude 37.65139, Longitude 83.71667
12
Anonymous said on July 27th, 2011
Hatfield and Delayed Gratification are beautiful, clean, and full on. Delayed could be the best 10c anywhere.