COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.
Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.12 2 - 12 15

Directions to The Shire

This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
Continue on the main road, passing the side trails for Rival Wall and Courtesy Wall, until the road narrows and becomes more of a trail. You will reach a very large boulder about 30 feet past a smaller boulder on the left side of the trail. Stay on the the trail up and right of the very large boulder for about 50 more feet as the trail switches back and you will reach the plated wall on which the first routes listed are located.

Wall Sun: Unknown

{show overview map}

Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture


My Name is Earl Sport 5.11d
3.83  (23) 30ft


Pee-Wee Sport 5.7
2.69  (107) 35ft


Audie Sport 5.8
3.51  (118) 35ft


Miranda Rayne Sport 5.9+
4.04  (140) 60ft


The G-Man Sport 5.10c
3.79  (92) 40ft


Significant Other Sport 5.10b
2.47  (58) 40ft


Bulldozer Sport 5.10a
2.68  (77) 40ft


Buffalo Crickets Trad 5.10b
3.00  (6) 45ft


Iron Mike (open project) Sport Grade Unknown


K.S.B. Sport 5.10d
4.10  (97) 60ft


Earth-Bound Misfit Sport 5.12c
3.80  (5) 50ft


Team Wilander Sport 5.11d
2.57  (7) 40ft


Trad Lib Trad 5.10c
3.00  (2) 60ft


Mis-Conception Sport 5.12b
3.33  (3) 55ft


A-shiff Boulder Bouldering Unknown


SCIN said on November 25th, 2006
Parking Area GPS Coordinates: Latitude 37.65139, Longitude 83.71667
goodguy said on February 3rd, 2007
2 new routes at the Shire, 25ft left of Pee Wee "My Name is Earl", Ryan Thomas' project 3 bolts and anchors , Techy arete, 11+** 15 ft right of Blakes project "Team Wilander",Ron Batemans' project 4bolts and anchors, tough start out of a cave, and JUGS to the finish.11c/d**
Anonymous said on May 31st, 2007
Could anyone give better directions to this area? Is this the same parking lot as access to drive-by? Would love to climb there!
pigsteak said on June 1st, 2007
nope.....park as if climbing at playground, purgatory, etc. the Shire is almost exactly opposite of purgatory. take off out of the back of the parking lot. there is a small footbridge to start out, and hang a left on the dirt road....walk about 7 minutes. right before a very huge boulder (20 foot tall) there is a path up to the right....the Shire is 50 foot up this path.
Anonymous said on July 27th, 2011
our reading of the 3rd edition guide showed the 4th route to the right on the wall with Audie and ostensibly 'Miranda Rayne" to be the 5.9 when experience indicates this to be the 10c. That fits with the next route being Sig. Other ~10b.
Anonymous said on July 27th, 2011
shite, i don't know, the online guide seems to be straight.
c-foot said on July 30th, 2011
The error is in the 3rd edition guide book. The description is correct but the map at the top of page 321 shows Miranda Rayne just to the left of the arete and G-Man to the right. In reality both are to the left of the arete with G-man being the rightmost. We ended up "warming up" on the 10.c G-man thinking it was the 9 Miranda Rayne. Live and learn.