The Shire
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve and The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) is a 750-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The PMRP contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.6 to 5.14c with potential for hundreds more. This is the largest direct land acquisition ever made by climbers and permanently secures access to a significant amount of climbing in the Red.
The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) is a 309-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The MFRP also contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.5 to 5.14+, with potential for still more.
The Red River Gorge Climbers' Coaltion is a nonprofit 501(c)3 organization dedicated to ensuring quality climbing opportunities for the recreating public by promosing responsible climbing. The historic PMRP and MFRP purchases represent the RRGCC's dedication to ensure quality climbing opportunities on public and private land. The purchase and operation of the PMRP and MFRP are made possible solely through private donations and volunteer efforts. Current yearly expenses including the property payment, legal fees, and maintenance are close to $30,000. All donations made in support of the RRGCC and its land are tax deductible. Volunteer contributions in the form of trail work or pro-bono professional services are also welcome. Please visit rrgcc.org for more information.
Rules of the PMRP and MFRP
Before climbing at the PMRP or MFRP you must sign a liability waiver, online at: https://www.smartwaiver.com/w/51c2134a209ee/web/. Other rules and guidelines for the Preserves are as follows:- Please climb responsible and follow Leave No Trace practices.
- All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
- Stay off tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear.
- Stay on established trails and do not mark or damage tress or other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails.
- No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts, or operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted.
- No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat of forest fire in a region of numerous oil wells would pose.
- Overnight camping (no long-term camping) is permitted as long as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil equipment. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
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Directions to The Shire
Continue on the main road, passing the side trails for Rival Wall and Courtesy Wall, until the road narrows and becomes more of a trail. You will reach a very large boulder about 30 feet past a smaller boulder on the left side of the trail. Stay on the the trail up and right of the very large boulder for about 50 more feet as the trail switches back and you will reach the plated wall on which the first routes listed are located.Wall Sun: Unknown
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Route | Spray | Name | Type | Grade | Quality | Length | Picture |
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1 |
-1 | My Name is Earl | Sport | 5.11d |
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30 | 1 |
25ft left of PeeWee, climb the short arete using balance and finesse as your arsenal. Fun technical moves. |
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2 |
-1 | Pee-Wee | Sport | 5.7 |
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35 | 1 |
From the approach trail you will see 4 sport lines on a slightly overhanging plated face. This is leftmost route on this face and begins just left of a large rock shelter. Great first lead. The last move will make you try for the grade. |
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3 |
-1 | Audie | Sport | 5.8 |
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35 | 1 |
This fun route follows the line of bolts beginning just above the rock house. Start in the rock house or left of it and traverse into the first bolt. Continue on plates and pockets to the anchors. |
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4 |
-1 | Miranda Rayne | Sport | 5.9+ |
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60 | 1 |
Move right a few feet from Audie to step it up a grade and gain some more height to the anchors. |
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5 |
-1 | The G-Man | Sport | 5.10c |
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40 | 1 |
Once you've graduated from the previous three lines, move right to take on the toughest line on the wall. Begin just left of an arete and stick clip the first bolt. Climb through pumpy moves on sloping pinches to the anchors. |
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6 |
-1 | Significant Other | Sport | 5.10b |
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40 | 1 |
Move right a few feet and around the corner from The G-Man to locate this and the next line. Climb a mossy start to gain a ledge then continue up the fingery face to the anchors. |
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7 |
-1 | Bulldozer | Sport | 5.10a |
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40 | 1 |
Step right a few feet to the next bolted line. Climb the slabby face past thought provoking moves. |
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8 |
-1 | Buffalo Crickets | Trad | 5.10b |
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45 | 1 |
Step 20 feet around the corner from Bulldozer to this left-facing dihedral. Crank past a tough start then continue up the crack. Near the top the crack widens and becomes extremely dirty. Protect out of horizontals on the arete to the left. |
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9 |
-1 | Iron Mike (open project) | Sport | Grade Unknown |
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90 | 1 |
25 feet right of Buffalo Crickets is this striking line of isolated shallow pockets and crimpers. Start up the through the first 4 bolts of easy iron rails and get a quick rest. While recovering, scope out your path of least resistance and try your luck with the sustained and heady crux. Try and rest at the hueco and hope you remembered to bring your traditional skills for the finish. |
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10 |
-1 | K.S.B. | Sport | 5.10d |
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60 | 1 |
Walk right about 150 feet past Bulldozer to a large overhanging wall. This climbs starts with some steep iron edge pulling and ends on a fun vertical face with crazy holds. |
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11 |
-1 | Earth-Bound Misfit | Sport | 5.12c |
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50 | 1 |
Move about 50 feet right from the previous line to locate this striking thin dihedral which begins about 20 feet off the deck and ends on a perch. |
Steepness: |
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12 |
-1 | Team Wilander | Sport | 5.11d |
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40 | 1 |
Twenty five feet right of the dihedral is this bolted line which begins in a cave. Crank through the initial cave moves, then emerge to the first bolt and enjoy gymnastic moves to the chains. |
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12a |
-1 | Trad Lib | Trad | 5.10c |
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60 | 1 |
Between Team Wilander and Mis-conception find a crack with a bulge above a small hueco. Stout start, protect the bulge well and go for it! When the crack disappears, face-climb left to second crack and then to chains. |
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13 |
-1 | Mis-Conception | Sport | 5.12b |
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55 | 1 |
Move about 50 feet right and around the corner from the previous line to locate this deceptively difficult line. Climb through sloping holds to a redpoint crux just before the anchors. |
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14 |
-1 | A-shiff Boulder | Bouldering | Unknown |
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0 | 0 |
Just off the approach trail below the main wall of The Shire and on the left is this recently cleaned boulder with two fin-like features. Problems as follows: 1. My Eden (V3) - Sit start between two huecos and climb positive flakes to a blank upper section. Walk off right and through the dual fins. FA: Ryan Thomas 2006 |
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Comments
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How about taking a quick tour or getting up to speed with the Spray Wizard?
Thanks but don't I'll be alright. (all gumbies' famous last words)
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