Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.12 1 1 7 9
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Directions to North 40

This wall is on private property. Be respectful. Sign required waivers.
North 40 Same approach as the Shire until you get to the big boulder. To get to Amarillo Sunset, go up the The Shire wall, and then head left for 100 yards. Amarillo Sunset starts to the right of the huge amphitheater on a ledge. For the rest of the north 40 routes, you can cut down thru the amphitheater on a faint trail at the base of the wall. Watch for poison ivy. The first route you'll encountre is Swine Flew. The preferred method for finding these routes is to continue on the main trail past the large boulder, and head downhill to the creek. Cross the creek and look for a trail about 50 feet later off to the right. This will land you at the base of Barbed Wire.

Wall Sun:

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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Amarillo Sunset Sport 5.11b
 
65
Destined to be a classic. Start from a ledge just right of a large ravine. Move up through 65 feet of big pumping throws to big holds with excellent exposure. Save some gas to clip the anchors. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-1 : fun-1 : classic-3 : beautiful-1 : exposed-1

1a

Tequila.Sunrise Sport 5.11b
 
65  
Climb the line of holes left of Amarillo Sunset for loads of fun. (Dot left in the name in honor of Shadow's broken keyboard). Steepness:

2

Swine Flew Sport 5.13b
 
80
Hike down through the ravine and up to the other side with help of a hand rope. Tackle the steep arete which hovers above the ravine to reach an intimidating headwall. Reachy. Steepness:

3

Samurai Sport 5.12b
 
55
Just left of Swine Flew is this bouldery line which offers unique and powerful climbing along aesthetic features. Steepness:
Tags
technical-1 : bouldery-1

4

Barbed Wire Sport 5.12b
 
55
Walk left from Samurai a few hundred feet to the next bolted line which begins just right of a blunt arete. Tech through a difficult start to an even more difficult crux then jet for larger holds. Enjoy the runout up high! Steepness:

5

Yosemite Sam Sport 5.12a
 
55
Move left and downhill a bit from Barbed Wire to the next bolted line. Grab the best holds you can find then power through the tough start. Pump out for the rest of the line and don't lose it up high. Steepness:

6

Outlaw Justice Sport 5.11d
 
55  
This line will make it worth your hike to the North 40. Move left a few feet from Yosemite Sam to the next bolted line. Make some tricky moves around a feature to gain fun climbing above. Steepness:

7

Pistol Gripped Mixed 5.12a
 
55  
Techy face climbing to perfect hand crack. Bring your sport skills or you'll never get to use your jamming skills up high. Steepness:

8

Summer Breeze Trad 5.8+
 
0  
25 ft left of PG you will see this crack system. Follow crack up and right until it fades. Steepness:

Comments

1
SCIN said on November 25th, 2006
Parking Area GPS Coordinates: Latitude 37.65139, Longitude 83.71667
2
Anonymous said on March 17th, 2008
3
Josephine said on August 4th, 2008
"steep trail w/hand rope" now has stairs - thanks Johnny & Alex Trail Day crew!
4
pigsteak said on August 7th, 2008
can I have my hand rope back? I am looking for a new lead rope, and that thing was only out there 2 years....lol seriously, a big thank you for trail day crew. that was a slippery uphill.