COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

The Boneyard

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.8 3 3 28 34

Directions to The Boneyard

Muir Valley
This wall is in property owned by Muir Valley. Be respectful.
The Boneyard Wall starts where the Calvin Hollow/Boneyard approach trail meets the rock and extends to the right (north) about 400 yards to the long wood staircase. It continues up the staircase and back to a waterfall where it meets the Midnight Surf Wall. Approach the Boneyard Wall either by taking the Calvin Hollow/Boneyard trail or the Boneyard/Midnight Surf Trail directly across from Slab City. Armed Insurection through Lula Mae are left of the wood stairs while the other routes are right of the stairs. If you took the Calvin Hollow approach trail then the first bolted line you encounter will be Son of a Wanted Man (it's a mixed line).

Wall Sun: Unknown

Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture


Armed Insurrection Sport 5.10d
3.19  (68) 80ft  


Cindarella Sport 5.9
3.09  (96) 80ft


Lucy Goosey Sport 5.10b
2.57  (87) 80ft


One-Armed Bandit Sport 5.9
3.22  (117) 80ft  


Captain Blondie Sinks the Ship Sport 5.11a
3.32  (92) 75ft  


Mooseknuckle Sport 5.11c
3.89  (9) 0ft  

6 Sport 5.11c
2.56  (34) 75ft


Van der Waals goo (Open Project) Sport Grade Unknown


Gym Jones Approved Sport 5.11b
2.81  (32) 75ft


The Last Slow Draw Sport 5.11d
3.40  (15) 70ft


The First Fast Draw Mixed 5.11c
2.00  (1) 75ft


Son of a Wanted Man Mixed 5.10a
3.62  (21) 75ft


The Warriors Path Sport 5.12c
3.00  (2) 70ft


Hijacked Project Sport 5.9
2.55  (56) 50ft


Winona Trad 5.7
2.29  (7) 45ft  


Oink! Oink! Trad 5.8
3.58  (24) 40ft


Surfin' the Whales Back Sport 5.10b
2.45  (22) 55ft


Three Toed Sloth - Open Project Sport Grade Unknown


Gorilla Sport 5.12c
4.00  (2) 45ft


Glide Sport 5.12a
3.41  (17) 45ft


Hot Fudge Sunday Sport 5.11a
2.00  (4) 55ft  


Unknown Road Sport 5.11b


Stealing Melinda Sport 5.9
2.50  (50) 25ft


Lula Mae Trad 5.6
2.05  (22) 25ft  


Abby Gabby Doo Sport 5.8
1.64  (53) 30ft


Flying Serpents Sport 5.12a
3.38  (34) 65ft


Tanduay Time Sport 5.10d
3.40  (72) 60ft


Tao Bato Sport 5.11a
2.98  (55) 50ft


Bangers and Mash Sport 5.11c
4.13  (30) 70ft


Renegade Mixed 5.11c
4.00  (4) 85ft


Sweet Tater Sport 5.11d
3.00  (8) 70ft


Haggis, Neeps & Tatties Sport 5.11b
3.00  (19) 85ft  


Trouble in Paradise Sport 5.12a
4.30  (10) 95ft


Hematopoiesis Sport 5.11b
2.80  (10) 100ft


J-Rock said on October 30th, 2006
I'm not sure who put these online, but they are all screwed up and out of order.
RRO said on November 1st, 2006
wanted to roll to the boneyard thursday. are these routes still out of order ?
Ascentionist said on November 2nd, 2006
Don't worry about it, there are nametags at the base of most of the routes.
J-Rock said on November 2nd, 2006
They are in the correct order now. IMO "Coyote Cliff" is much better with cleaner rock, but you can always start at the Boneyard with morning sun and then move over to Coyote Cliff for the afternoon sun.
RRO said on November 2nd, 2006
do either dry quickly or stay dry ?
J-Rock said on November 2nd, 2006
Both cliffs have a few routes that stay dry. The Boneyard probably has more rainy day routes, but Coyote Cliff is much prettier.
camhead said on June 24th, 2008
someone said on September 23rd, 2008
Should be renamed the Bonehead Pile. [email protected]'s to you hardworking boneheads
pigsteak said on September 24th, 2008
hey "someone", as long as you are donating time to trail work, paying for route hardware, or teaching bolting clinics, then please continue the anonymous critique. if not, STFU. or at least man up when calling out the hard work of others. hopefully you'll be at saturday's trail day adding your sweat equity.
pigsteak said on September 28th, 2008
fartspray...surely you jest. I'd be glad to hear you requirements to be "worthy" of a RR rock climb. You mean "Sand" at Roadside quality, or 12 wall at military quality? I'll throw down the gauntlet on newer routes being less worthy than older lines. For every 5 crappy "new" routes you mention, I can easily name 5 older routes with the same crappy quality. I'll put midnight surf, kenny's choco factory lines, purgatory, matt and don's chica bonita, and josh and ron's de bibliotech routes in the same category as any of the older lines. it's the nature of the beast that some mediocre lines will happen...esp. on the steeper lines where it is tough to ascertain the entire line until bolts have been installed. btw, I have never participated in a bolting clinic (at muir or JATD) nor taught another to bolt, so you'll have to take that request elsewhere.
redpointron said on September 29th, 2008
pig. read the comment attached to the picture i submitted a couple years back (immediately after charlie fowler and chris broskoff died). you can't argue with this "jerry".
512OW said on September 29th, 2008
Agreed, Piggie. Fartspray is just bitter. Thats what happened around here... all the old schoolers got weak and bitter. The crags you mentioned, along with Solarium, Sanctuary, North 40, and others... are just as good as all the old great crags. Some are better.
Anonymous said on October 5th, 2008
blakeleathers said on November 16th, 2011
does anyone know what the new climb is between glide and stealing melinda?
Anonymous said on April 28th, 2014
I did route call "Flavor of the week" , was super fun but it's not on the website
heacocis said on October 20th, 2014
The route between Glide and Stealing Melinda is now open. Named "Unknown Road." 45 ft, 5 bolts. I suggest 11b. FA Isaac Heacock and Tristan Stahl, 2014. I don't know how route info is currently being submitted, so here it is. The line that Annoymous did, assuming he is talking about this route, was slightly different. That line was closed (and has had various red tags, signs, etc. on it) because of poor rock quality near the arete where the bolts were. I pulled those bolts out and put in three new ones to the left of the original line, in substantially better rock. The bolts were originally put in by Josh Thurston, Ron Bateman, and myself. After bolting it we figured the bottom bolts would have to be moved, so we closed it (or tried to). This isn't to take away from Annoymous for climbing the original bolt line, and the comments reflect that ascent. But the finished route is now as it is.
Anonymous said on October 20th, 2014
Anonymous is referring to a line over on the wall by There are two new ones there.
JR said on May 4th, 2015
Between Hoosier heights and captain Blondie is a 11c named moose knuckle. Has a fixed draw in a small roof about half way up. Also has a stone placard at the bottom. Just as good as neighboring routes.
DrRockso said on March 25th, 2017
Routes 1 through 22 are listed from right to left, route 1 starts to the left of the approach trail if you are coming up the stairs for the trail to midnight surf. If you are coming on the animal crackers trail you will start passing route 22 and work backwards. Routes 23-31 are listed from left to right and are right of the stairs, on the way to Midnight Surf. Can we please add Mooseknuckle/Flavor of the Week?