Coyote Cliff

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.4 1 - 9 11
loading

Directions to Coyote Cliff

Muir Valley
This wall is in property owned by Muir Valley. Be respectful.
Coyote Cliff is an impressively tall wall of good rock on the east side of Coal Bank Hollow. From Slab City it is a short walk around the corner left of "Return to Balance". Within 5 minutes you will reach a large ledge from which it is possible to descend a 3rd class gully on your left (or continue another 40 or 50 feet to a short slot and make a 4th class move or two onto a sidewalk-sized traverse ledge that is ~15 feet above the ground). You will soon see an aesthetic cliffline and a mossy rock garden. Follow the cliffline left to reach the routes . Routes are labeled from right to left. Please avoid trampling the mossy vegetation and wildflowers around the rock garden/waterfall section of cliffline.

Wall Sun: Afternoon sun



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Primortal Nonscence Toprope 5.4
 
40  
These two routes are difficult to access, but offer some highly exposed position above the valley. They are located ~100 ft above the sidewalk-sized traverse ledge mentioned in the directions to Coyote Cliff. To reach these routes you will need to back track past the short 4th class slot/3rd class gully area and find a faint trail leading up to another exposed ledge above. It may be necessary to make a supersketchy traverse high above the lower traverse ledge to reach a giant balcony above that contains more rock. This route is a few feet left of an obvious left-leaning flake. Steepness:

2

Hiking Boot Highway Trad 5.5
 
40  
This is the obvious left leaning flake mentioned in the previous route description. Steepness:

3

Golden Road Sport 5.12a
 
90
After passing the mossy rock garden you will soon encounter a sport route. This climb alone will be well worth the trip. It glows golden in the late afternoon sun and climbs up some great rock with plenty of fun moves. Stand in the giant hueco to clip the chains and enjoy the view. Steepness:
Tags
crimpy-1 : vertical-1 : bouldery-1

4

Buddhalicious Sport 5.11b
 
60
20 feet left of "Golden Road" is this fine climb. Slappin' and squeezin' the Buddha belly holds up high are sure to bring some good luck. Steepness:

5

MumMum Sport 5.11a
 
70  
Begins on a flake 30 feet left of Golden Buddha. Climb up to a small roof and smack over it to reach a decent ledge. Continue up on decent side pulls and edges to end with a nice sloping finale. Steepness:

6

Manteleer Sport 5.9+
 
70
This route is the obvious bolted and flared/obtuse dihedral just left of MumMum. Originally thought to be a trad route, but the gear wasn't good enough to keep it from being R-rated. A reachy start on good jugs takes you to a ledge from which you can step left and cruise the crack above. Technical and enjoyable. First route put up at Coyote Cliff. There is an optional boulder problem direct start. Steepness:

7

Thunderclinger Sport 5.10c
 
60
The next sport route to the left begins on a vertical face left of a large hemlock. Make use of the many underclings and this route will be a walk in the park. There is a short right leaning crack in the middle of this route and a few sloper moves on the face above. Then climb into the hueco and, you guessed it, clip the anchors from a big undercling. Steepness:

8

Bombardier Sport 5.10b
 
50
15 feet left of "Thunderclinger" is this dirty and less than bomber route. Gently climb past a brief crumbly bulge (crux) to sequential pockets on good rock above. The route ends under a small roof with bolted anchors. There is a good reason why this route has no stars. Climb it at your own risk. Steepness:

9

Trundling Trolls Sport 5.11a
 
40
Continuing left along the cliff you will soon reach a miniature rocky amphitheather with a short, but bouldery, overhanging sport route. Climb out the overhang and mantel onto the ledge then continue up and right into a hueco. Stand up in the hueco and clip the anchors above. Steepness:

10

Retirement Day Sport 5.10b
 
35
This slightly overhanging route starts 15ft left of Trundling Trolls. Steepness:

11

The Golden Box Sport 5.10d
 
35  
Another short overhanging route beginning 10 feet left of Retirement Day. Steepness:

Comments

1
heavyc said on October 31st, 2006
just to the left of Trundling Trolls is a nice boulder problem up a left slanting feature that you can lay back, nice ending point about 15 feet up, probably V1, how far over from Trundling Trolls is Git-R-done?
2
J-Rock said on November 1st, 2006
Yep, we climbed that one too. "Git-R-Done" is another 20-30' to the left (it tops out near the left side of that ledge/ending point). It has a good jug for the SDS and then up small incut pockets and edges. There is also a nice traverse.
3
Josephine said on August 25th, 2008
great place to escape the crowds at muir
4
Saxman said on July 4th, 2011
There are 2 routes between Trundling Trolls and Git R Done. The right one is red tagged but looks to be 10d/11a and is not missing any hardware. The left one is not tagged so we climbed it and we thought it was 10d/11a. Anyone know anything about these routes?
5
dustonian said on July 4th, 2011
I think they are Jeff Columbo's.
6
Saxman said on July 4th, 2011
Unless there is something we couldn't see, the red tagged route looks perfectly climbable and the route on the left, while short, is a fun addition to the wall that the FA needs to let Ray know about.
7
colombo said on October 24th, 2011
Both the route to the left have been FA'ed. The first one to the of Trundling Trolls is called Retirement Day going 10B. Then the route to the left of that one is called The Golden Box going 10D.
8
Anonymous said on May 5th, 2014
Updated directions to "Coyote Cliff": Hike the "Main Trail - North" from the main parking lot down to the Valley floor. Turn left and follow the gravel road about 1080 yards to a sign on the right reading "Coyote Cliff & Slab City." Fifty feet up this trail, turn left at the sign pointing to "Coyote Cliff." This 2011 trail is far shorter, safer, and much more aesthetic than the old bushwhacker's path. © Rick Weber
9
ray said on May 6th, 2014
Rick you are such a fucking tool! Did you really just put a copyright symbol in your comment? Man money must make a man crazy.
10
Anonymous said on May 6th, 2014
I am bat shit crazy © Rick Weber
11
tactless said on May 7th, 2014
So just to understand correctly. Rick has copyrighted his comments as a ploy to get Ray to pay Rick royalties for using copyrighted information if he includes these directions to coyote cliff in the next guidebook. And people still think Rick is benign.
12
Anonymous said on May 7th, 2014
Rick could care less about Ray's $. This is about just trying to be a pain in Ray's ass. So, I did a little research on copyright law. Simply writing the words is enough to imply copyright. Adding the little c after does nothing more to protect your original (directions), unless you have filed your verbiage with the US Copyright office. I doubt that Rick has done that yet, though I am sure that he will for a more comprehensive guide that he will write and produce for Muir Valley.
13
rupp said on May 9th, 2014
Thanks for the updated directions, I've been looking for this sweet crag all year!
14
lil_reggie said on September 27th, 2016
Crag has been renamed- Reggie's Rock. Make sure the guide book gets that correct. Or else.
15
Anonymous said on September 28th, 2016
Is it that unreasonable for Rick to expect someone to not take his work and then sell it in a book and make money? Can someone explain to me how that is unreasonable?