The Fire Wall

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 1 - 3 4
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Directions to The Fire Wall

Muir Valley
This wall is in property owned by Muir Valley. Be respectful.
West side of Coal Bank Hollow near the mouth of the hollow across from Coyote Cliff. The fire of November 2005 tore through this area and the scars can still be seen. There are a variety of ways to reach the Fire Wall, but to avoid trespassing the small tract of land owned by the Smokey Fork Bed and Breakfast, it is best to approach it from Coyote Cliff. After the short ledge traverse (or gully descent) on the trail to Coyote Cliff find a faint trail underneath which will take you down to the creek. Cross the creek and follow a fixed rope up a steep, but short, path to reach the main buttress.

Wall Sun: Morning



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Driller Instinct Sport 5.11d
 
35
This short and powerful route is located left of the approach trail on a small pinnacle of rock behind the bed and breakfast. Sequential mono and two finger pocket pulling leads up a sharp arete to an easier finish. Quality climbing the whole way, but unfortunately much too short. Steepness:

2

Fire and Rain (CLOSED) Sport 5.10a
 
70  
Just right of where the approach trail meets the cliff is a juggy vertical face. Follow the line of bolts past a few long moves to the top and turn around to enjoy the view of the valley behind you. Steepness:

3

Firestarter Sport 5.11a
 
65
20 feet right of "Fire and Rain" is this sporty route. A bouldery start will lead to a small cave (beware of the woodrats). Carefully climb the crack and flake to gain the pocketed face above. Those shakey at the grade may want a medium cam or two to protect the runouts. Otherwise it will be a big, but relavitively harmless, fall if you pop off. Steepness:
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4

Oddballs Trad 5.8+
 
50  
Right of "Firestarter" is this physical overhanging offwidth. Commence on the dihedral then battle the bulge above. Grunt, grovel, jam, armbar, or chickenwing your way through and stand on the ledge to clip the anchors. Steepness:

Comments

1
Josephine said on August 25th, 2008
there is a fixed rope up the "steep, but short" path to reach the main buttress. i thought this cliff was kinda fun - but since no one ever goes here the rock is still fragile. bring a helmet for belaying. gets nice afternoon shade in the summer time so it works well with Coyote Cliff which gets nice morning shade.