Midnight Surf

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.13 - - 11 11
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Directions to Midnight Surf

Muir Valley
This wall is in property owned by Muir Valley. Be respectful.
Follow the approach to The Boneyard and head right at the top of the stairs. Continue past the few bolted routes which are part of The Boneyard and follow the trail downhill. The trail will head back uphill and wrap around an ampitheater with a waterfall. Within a couple hundred feet and just right of the waterfall you'll reach a section of black lichen covered boulders. Midnight Surf is the obvious vertical to overhanging wall right of the waterfall.

Wall Sun: Shade



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

0

Babyface Sport 5.12b
 
100
Midway between the Boneyard and Midnight Surf is this long jug haul with a high sloping crux. A 60 meter rope will barely get you back to the ledge from which you start the route so be sure to tie a knot in the end of your rope. Steepness:

1

Starfish and Coffee Sport 5.13a
 
80  
This is the first route encountered to the right of the large ampitheater and waterfall. Begin on a large ramp/ledge feature and trend up and left toward an odd shaped hueco on the severely overhanging pocketed face. Rock quality may improve with more ascents but expect breakage in its early days. Steepness:

2

A Farewell to Arms Sport 5.13a
 
80
First bolted line from the left at the Surf. Tread lightly over fragile rock to a good hold a few feet beneath a body length roof. Crank up to the roof, get a shake, then bust through it for a good ledge over the lip. Recover then take on the extremely overhanging headwall on pockets and slopers. Steepness:
Tags
pockets-1

3

The Crucible Sport 5.12c
 
80
Move about 20 feet right to the next line which begins on a stack of boulders. Climb 30 feet to reach a 3 foot roof. Pull over the roof to a ledge then take on the heavily featured overhanging face to the chains. Steepness:

4

Vortex Sport 5.12c
 
80
Begin 10 feet right of The Crucible and 15 feet left of a tree. Climb easy ground to a small roof. Pull over the roof then climb pockets to a high pocket crux just before the chains. Steepness:

4a

Tree Hugger Sport 5.11d
 
80
Wild jug-hauling with just a couple of tricky moves. Get an attentive belay and watch out for the tree down low. A 2 bolt extension up the black streak above adds some length and vert crimping with no change in difficulty. Steepness:

5

Shiva Sport 5.13b
 
80
Move right from Vortex about 40 feet to the next bolted line. Begin 15 feet right of a tree. Boulder through the initial blank face to reach a series of long moves to large ledges. Power through a long undercling move to reach a decent ledge. Take the easy road out to the left or contrive straight up for a fun boulder problem. Equipped by Kipp Trummel. Steepness:

6

Tapeworm Sport 5.12d
 
80
15 feet right of Shiva is another bolted line. Climb a flake to reach the first bolt. Climb between bulges to flat ledges then cruise up the overhanging headwall making use of the occasional pocket and undercling. Save some oxygen for the high crux. Steepness:

7

Cell Block Six Sport 5.12c
 
80
Move 20 feet right to the next line. Begin by climbing a flake then crank large moves through a series of incut holds to reach a high crux just before the chains. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-3 : steep-1 : classic-2 : juggy-1 : dynamic-2

8

Iniquity Sport 5.12b
 
90
10 feet right of Cell Block Six is another excellent line. Pull a tough boulder problem to start then continue up the face on good incuts to reach a squat down rest on the large ramp. Move from the ramp to take on a series of large moves to good jugs. Steepness:
Tags
bouldery-2

9

Mellow Yellow Sport 5.11b
 
80
Begin just left of the blunt arete 20 feet right of Iniquity. Tread the edge of the arete and bypass a large roof by moving right. Continue up a vertical face on huge holds to the anchors. Steepness:

Comments

1
SCIN said on June 4th, 2007
Wall stays bone dry in a downpour but can seep after many days of rain. One of the best walls in the Red.
2
SCIN said on June 4th, 2007
Oh yea, Kipp "Pigsteak" Trummel put in about 80 hours this winter fully equipping every line on this wall with glue-in bolts provided by Rick Weber. These bolts are here to stay. Thanks Piggy and Rick!
3
JR said on June 25th, 2007
Best Mid 12's anywhere.
4
camhead said on June 24th, 2008
5
allen said on May 6th, 2009
came around the bend into the ampitheater and literally started drooling... mucho gracias to pigsteak and mr rick weber! first wall ive looked at that gets me stoked to train