Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 2 - 18 20
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Directions to Bibliothek

Muir Valley
This wall is in property owned by Muir Valley. Be respectful.
Continue walking past Animal Crackers Wall for a few hundred feet until you reach a steep ravine near a large ampitheater. Walk down the sandy ravine and cross a small stream near the bottom. Hike a short distance up and around the corner you'll reach an overhanging wall with several bolted lines. The routes Tea at the Palaz of Hoon through 100 Years of Solitude are located on this main wall from left to right. To reach American Psycho through A Confederacy of Dunces continue walking past the main wall about 100 feet.

Wall Sun: Morning to early afternoon



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

A Prayer for Owen Meany Trad 5.6
 
30
Continue hiking past Animal Crackers Wall and down a steep ravine and locate this short right angling handcrack which is about 35 feet before rounding the corner to reach the main Bibliothek wall. Steepness:

2

100 Years of Solitude Sport 5.11a
 
55
Rightmost line on the wall. Climb the asthetic face just right of a large scoop in the cliff. A bouldery start leads to comfortable stances and fun moves to a thinner finish. Steepness:

3

Who Pooped in the Park? Sport 5.11c
 
55
Bolted line just left of 100 Years of Solitude. Begin by either climbing the crack if it's dry or climbing the face left of the crack. Leave the comfort of large holds and move right onto the face to make the second clip. Continue up to a rest then bust through single pad edges up the short but pumpy headwall. Sucker your partner into hanging the draws. Steepness:

4

The Giver Trad 5.6
 
0  
Climb the flake left of Who Pooped in the Park. Reach for the first hold and continue up the left angling flake using hand size gear. Shares anchors with The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber. Steepness:

5

The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber Sport 5.10b
 
45
Short but sweet. Just left of the crack climb "The Giver". Climb the first route left of the large scoop. A steep technical start leads to enjoyable climbing above. Steepness:
Tags
vertical-1 : steep-1 : fun-2

6

The Stranger Sport 5.11d
 
55
Next route left of The Short Happy Life. Boulder through a short section of slopey textured rock to reach a set of good sidepulls. Clip the second bolt then bust through pockets and pinches to reach the mossy but easier upper section. Steepness:

7

Everything That Rises Must Converge Sport 5.11d
 
60
This route has excellent movement and is a close contender for the best on the wall. Begin just left of The Stranger. Grab high pinches on textured orange rock to start. Pump up through a sequential series of protruding edges and finger pockets while keeping an eye out for the occasional hidden hold. Steepness:

8

Resuscitation of a Hanged Man Sport 5.11b
 
65
10 feet left of the previous line. Steepness:

9

All The Pretty Horses Sport 5.11c
 
70  
Take on the sustained and pumpy face just a few feet left of the previous line. Steepness:

10

No Country for Old Men Sport 5.11b
 
65  
Start just left of All the Pretty Horses with two large underclings. move through the pumpy lower section to a rest then power through the bouldery finish. Steepness:

11

The Unbearable Lightness of Being Sport 5.11c
 
70
Next bolted line left of No Country for Old Men. Move up the overhanging face taking advantage of the occasional gargantuan jug rest. Scoot left near the top and make a big move before the chains. Steepness:

12

A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man Sport 5.11b
 
70
20 feet left of The Unbearable Lightness. Pinch and crimp up the overhanging face and don't waste time searching for huge double handed ledge jugs. The route to the right stole them all. Steepness:
Tags
classic-1 : beautiful-1

13

The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock Sport 5.11c
 
65  
First bolted line on the left side of the main Bibliothek Wall just before the trail heads down into a large ampitheater. Begin 10 feet left of the previous line. Sustained and technical climbing. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-3

14

Tea at the Palaz of Hoon Sport 5.11b
 
60
Shares the start with The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock then angles left. Furthest left route on the main Bib wall. Pull the entrance moves on Alfred Prufrock then move left to a large undercling near the second bolt. Steepness:

15

A Confederacy of Dunces Sport 5.11c
 
70
From the main Bibliothek wall, head left down a ravine for 50 yards to reach another section of the wall with a few bolted lines. This is the rightmost line on this section of the wall. If you can make it through the first three bolts of dirty and fragile rock then you'll be rewarded with slightly better climbing for the rest of the line. Steepness:

16

The Fury Sport 5.11c
 
70
This line is just left of A Confederacy of Dunces and also much cleaner. Begin in a swampy mess to gain the face then watch your forearms swell as you take on this overhanging monster of a route. If you're desperate for a rest there are kneebars to be had. Steepness:

17

The Sound Sport 5.11c
 
65
Just left of The Fury. If you climbed A Confederacy of Dunces and enjoyed it then you've proved that your standards are low enough to have a good time on this route was well. Similar to its neighbors on the right. Steepness:

18

East of Eden Sport 5.11d
 
40
Walk left from the previous lines about 50 feet. There are three short lines up on a ledge and this is the far right one. Crank a hard pocket problem to start and gain a good jug ledge. Launch onto the sustained face and bicep curl your way to the chains. Steepness:
Tags
short-2 : pockets-1 : juggy-4

19

Lolita Sport 5.12a
 
40
Just left of East of Eden. This spicy route will keep your attention. Tell your belayer to bring their A game while you clip the third bolt. Steepness:

20

American Psycho Sport 5.11a
 
0
Move left of Lolita a few feet for this one. It's longer than Lolita and East of Eden but don't expect the same quality. Steepness:

Comments

1
pkananen said on September 6th, 2007
I seem to remember the far left climb labeled as the 11b, and the far right 12a. Am I wrong about that?
2
pkananen said on September 6th, 2007
I seem to remember the far left climb labeled as the 11b, and the far right 12a. Am I wrong about that? I think this wall is going to be classic.
3
redpointron said on September 6th, 2007
some miscommunication between rick weber and i resulted in the ratings being inverted. the online guide has the names and grades correct now. of those routes that are open, "the unbearable..." is just to the right of the large tree (the leftmost open route as of today). "100 years" is the rounded arete on the far right. josh and i will be trying to get the other climbs up and open a.s.a.p.
4
pawilkes said on April 24th, 2008
what are the sun/shade conditions like? none of the maps are up to date enough for me to make a good guess
5
pigsteak said on April 24th, 2008
right now, sun until about 1 pm....
6
JR said on May 20th, 2008
This area reminds me of the Torrent Falls 11 wall. Every single route feels 11b/c regardless of length or designated grade. Let the rhetoric begin. "This route should be 11d because of that move. No, this one should be 11b because it is ten feet shorter. No, this one should be 11c because the start is slippery."
7
pigsteak said on May 20th, 2008
no doubt JR..I couldn't agree more.....The Sound, The Fury, Confederacy of Dunces..I bolted them all, and every one of them felt identical in difficulty.....I was thinkning of the Bib challenge. Starting on the left or right, send every route in order down the wall in a day....once the final 5-6 lines get put in, then would be a good training day no doubt.
8
pigsteak said on May 26th, 2008
btw, Lolita is to the left of East of Eden. the far left route is Batemana's, and is a project.
9
Meadows said on August 18th, 2008
did you guys actually read all those books?
10
goodguy said on August 18th, 2008
At least one of us did!
11
redpointron said on August 19th, 2008
all of them EXCEPT "the sound & the fury" which kipp so elegantly divided in half. a couple are short stories and one is a poem. i majored in english and managed a bookstore. when i first saw the area i thought of the 11s at torrent (which are all one-word route names) and wanted to go the other direction (longer titles). the last two on the right side will likely be "tea at the palace of hoon" and "trout fishing in america".
12
pigsteak said on August 19th, 2008
I can't read higher than an 8th grade ;level, so that "One" person was not I.
13
redpointron said on August 19th, 2008
yeah...if piggie had insisted on his reading list it would have included "how to wear a kilt in kentucky (and not get killed)", "h & r block: the devil in the strip mall", and "ryan & trista's wedding album"
14
Meadows said on August 24th, 2008
And the Devil wears PraNa.
15
mpittdawg said on October 19th, 2008
going to be a great wall once people climb it more. Rock is still a little loose.
16
SCIN said on April 24th, 2009
Every 5.11 on this wall feels the same grade. Kind of like the 5.11 wall at Torrent.
17
said on May 25th, 2009
I've heard this wall stays dry in downpour? is that accurate?
18
Anonymous said on September 2nd, 2009
Is this 300 yds from Animal Crackers towards Nellie Falls?
19
jdstic2 said on October 25th, 2009
start on the first bolt of 100 years then clip the second of who pooped in the park to climb 100 years of pooping in the park. solid 11
20
Andrew said on October 25th, 2009
Start on the first bolt of the Stranger and then clip the second Everything Rises, and continue diagonally up and left to climb Strange Old Hung Horses Rise and Converge in the Lightness of Being. Still 11c.
21
dnietosi said on March 30th, 2010
Are the routes in order? I cant figure it out. which one is the labeled 12a? I am confused
22
pawilkes said on March 31st, 2010
yes they are in order from right to left. The first route listed is on the hike in and then things are pretty straight forward. I think The Unbearalbe LIghtness of Being is marked with a silver tag at the base as a 12a but it has long since been downgraded.
23
Anonymous said on October 28th, 2015
Really cool wall! Does it usually seep? the starts to several routes on the right were all wet and it hadn't rained for a week+, would like to visit again wondered about the wetness
24
Chiyram said on March 7th, 2016
Great sustained overhang 5.11 climbing. Reminds you that not all of Muir is soft.