Bibliothek
Muir Valley Nature Preserve and Climbing Arena
Muir Valley, LLC is a nature preserve and rock climbing area owned and maintained by Rick and Liz Weber. The Valley is approximately 400 acres in size and walled in by over seven miles of majestic cliffs of hard Corbin Sandstone that range in height from 20 feet to over 200 feet. Waterfalls cascading off the cliffs abound, as do caves and stone bottom creeks. Mountain laurel, rhododendron, and many other species of wildflowers and plants grace the valley floor and hillsides. Muir Valley is indeed one of the prettiest little places of natural beauty to be found anywhere.
Although privately owned, Muir Valley may be freely enjoyed by all.hikers, climbers, and folks just sauntering through taking in the spectacular beauty of the valley. No admission fees are charged. As such, the Valley falls under the provisions of Kentucky.s Recreational Use Laws.
Because there is no outside funding or revenue stream, we appreciate your time and efforts in helping us maintain the land and its trails. You may climb, hike, and enjoy the natural beauty as our guests, but at your own risk.
Rules for Visitors to Muir Valley
You must fill out a waiver on muirvalley.org before climbing in this region.
1. You must read and understand the documents .Warnings to Visitors to Muir Valley. and the Kentucky Recreational Use Statute. Your presence in Muir Valley signifies that you agree that you have been adequately warned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve, LLC (MVNP) of hazards that may exist in Muir Valley and that you consider MVNP in full compliance with the provisions of this statute.
2. You must notify MVNP as soon as reasonably possible of any unusual dangerous condition or hazard in the Valley,of which you may become aware.
3. To rock climb in Muir Valley, you must first submit and have accepted the Muir Valley Release Form. You must either fill out and submit this form on line at www.muirvalley.com or do so on a temporary paper form, good for three days, available at the kiosk at the main Muir Valley parking lot.
4. You must be eighteen years of age or older or be accompanied by your parent, your legal guardian, or responsible adult to enter this property. Those minors climbing with a responsible adult, such as a professional rock climbing guide, must have had the Muir Valley Release Form completed and submitted on-line on their behalf by their parent or legal guardian before entering Muir Valley. Climbers under age 18, who can demonstrate a proficiency in rock climbing, will be permitted to climb in Muir Valley on a case-by-case basis and only with special permission of the MVNP.
5. Persons under the age of eighteen years (minors) must be supervised by their parent, legal guardian, or responsible adult and remain in the presence of that parent or guardian 100% of the time that the minor spends in Muir Valley.
6. These activities are permitted in Muir Valley: rock climbing, hiking, trail running, and enjoying nature.
7. These activities are NOT permitted in Muir Valley: sport rappelling, bungee jumping, rope jumping, taking long intentional falls (sometimes referred to as .victory whippers.), mountain biking, shooting firearms, hunting, trapping, camping, campfires, or operating motorized vehicles.
8. Climbing of a type known as free soloing or highballing, which is done without proper and adequate protection in the form of rope belaying, spotting, or using bouldering pads, is unnecessarily dangerous and not permitted in Muir Valley. The only three forms of rock climbing permitted in Muir Valley are sport climbing, wherein the climber utilizes hanger brackets bolted to the rock faces, for protection, trad climbing, wherein the climber provides and temporarily affixes his/her own passive and active gear to the rock faces for protection, and bouldering, wherein the climber, sans rope, climbs routes that remain close to the ground and uses bouldering pads to provide a safer landing. Aid climbing is not permitted in Muir Valley.
9. Do not climb above the anchors or top out on any climb in Muir Valley.
10. Do not toprope through the anchor chains (or rings). This means do not run your rope from the belayer up and through the anchor hardware and back down to the climber. This produces unnecessary wear on the anchor hardware and may increase risk to you or climbers who use this hardware subsequent to your use of it. Instead, attach quickdraws or carabiners and slings to the anchor system and run your toprope through them.
11. Unintentional falling is part of responsible rock climbing. Rock climbers are expected to be experienced and skilled in the technique of taking falls, and belayers are expected to be experienced and skilled in safely arresting the falls of the climbers they are belaying.
12. No rock climbing routes of any kind may be put up in MVNP without the written permission of MVNP. If you wish to put up a climbing route, FIRST contact the owners with your ideas PRIOR to starting the project and they can help you get started. We are keeping a database of route setting projects in the valley. All new routes must have a database ID and be approved buy the owners (or their representatives). This is necessary to prevent overbolting and inappropriate setting of routes. No hardware of any kind may be permanently affixed to any rock in Muir Valley without the written permission of the MVNP.
13. Please pack out all trash, especially non-biodegradable trash and toilet paper. Please do not throw cigarette butts on the ground. And, thank you for carrying out trash left by others!
14. Dogs are not allowed in Muir Valley. This includes the parking lot. Leaving your dog tied to your car or, worse yet, shut in your car puts you dog at unreasonable risk of injury or death by overheating.
15. Harvesting of plants or plant specimens is to be done only with the expressed specific permission of MVNP owners.
16. Please do not damage trees and vegetation. Stay on existing trails. The Valley has been recently lightly logged. In time, the land cut by the more severe logging trails will be restored to its natural state. New footpaths may be established only with prior approval of the Muir Valley Owners.
17. Absolutely no digging for and/or removal of relics will be permitted in caves, rock shelters, or anywhere else in Muir Valley.
18. Please respect our neighbors' property and privacy. Drive slowly on the approach road. Children are often present. Park only on Muir Valley land in areas designated for parking.
19. Illegal drugs and alcoholic beverages are NOT permitted anywhere in Muir Valley. Period.
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Directions to Bibliothek
Continue walking past Animal Crackers Wall for a few hundred feet until you reach a steep ravine near a large ampitheater. Walk down the sandy ravine and cross a small stream near the bottom. Hike a short distance up and around the corner you'll reach an overhanging wall with several bolted lines. The routes Tea at the Palaz of Hoon through 100 Years of Solitude are located on this main wall from left to right. To reach American Psycho through A Confederacy of Dunces continue walking past the main wall about 100 feet.
Wall Sun: Morning to early afternoon
| Route | Spray | Name | Type | Grade | Quality | Length | Picture |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
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1 |
-1 | A Prayer for Owen Meany | Trad | 5.6 |
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30 | 1 |
| Continue hiking past Animal Crackers Wall and down a steep ravine and locate this short right angling handcrack which is about 35 feet before rounding the corner to reach the main Bibliothek wall. |
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2 |
-1 | 100 Years of Solitude | Sport | 5.11a |
|
55 | 1 |
| Rightmost line on the wall. Climb the asthetic face just right of a large scoop in the cliff. A bouldery start leads to comfortable stances and fun moves to a thinner finish. |
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3 |
-1 | Who Pooped in the Park? | Sport | 5.11c |
|
55 | 1 |
| Bolted line just left of 100 Years of Solitude. Begin by either climbing the crack if it's dry or climbing the face left of the crack. Leave the comfort of large holds and move right onto the face to make the second clip. Continue up to a rest then bust through single pad edges up the short but pumpy headwall. Sucker your partner into hanging the draws. |
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4 |
-1 | The Giver | Trad | 5.6 |
|
0 | 0 |
| Climb the flake left of Who Pooped in the Park. Reach for the first hold and continue up the left angling flake using hand size gear. Shares anchors with The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber. |
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5 |
-1 | The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber | Sport | 5.10b |
|
45 | 1 |
| Short but sweet. Just left of the crack climb "The Giver". Climb the first route left of the large scoop. A steep technical start leads to enjoyable climbing above. |
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6 |
-1 | The Stranger | Sport | 5.11d |
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55 | 1 |
| Next route left of The Short Happy Life. Boulder through a short section of slopey textured rock to reach a set of good sidepulls. Clip the second bolt then bust through pockets and pinches to reach the mossy but easier upper section. |
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7 |
-1 | Everything That Rises Must Converge | Sport | 5.11d |
|
60 | 1 |
| This route has excellent movement and is a close contender for the best on the wall. Begin just left of The Stranger. Grab high pinches on textured orange rock to start. Pump up through a sequential series of protruding edges and finger pockets while keeping an eye out for the occasional hidden hold. |
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8 |
-1 | Resuscitation of a Hanged Man | Sport | 5.11b |
|
65 | 1 |
| 10 feet left of the previous line. |
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9 |
-1 | All The Pretty Horses | Sport | 5.11c |
|
70 | 0 |
| Take on the sustained and pumpy face just a few feet left of the previous line. |
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10 |
-1 | No Country for Old Men | Sport | 5.11b |
|
65 | 0 |
| Start just left of All the Pretty Horses with two large underclings. move through the pumpy lower section to a rest then power through the bouldery finish. |
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11 |
-1 | The Unbearable Lightness of Being | Sport | 5.11c |
|
70 | 1 |
| Next bolted line left of No Country for Old Men. Move up the overhanging face taking advantage of the occasional gargantuan jug rest. Scoot left near the top and make a big move before the chains. |
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12 |
-1 | A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man | Sport | 5.11b |
|
70 | 1 |
| 20 feet left of The Unbearable Lightness. Pinch and crimp up the overhanging face and don't waste time searching for huge double handed ledge jugs. The route to the right stole them all. |
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13 |
-1 | The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock | Sport | 5.11c |
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65 | 0 |
| First bolted line on the left side of the main Bibliothek Wall just before the trail heads down into a large ampitheater. Begin 10 feet left of the previous line. Sustained and technical climbing. |
Steepness: |
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14 |
-1 | Tea at the Palaz of Hoon | Sport | 5.11b |
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60 | 1 |
| Shares the start with The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock then angles left. Furthest left route on the main Bib wall. Pull the entrance moves on Alfred Prufrock then move left to a large undercling near the second bolt. |
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15 |
-1 | A Confederacy of Dunces | Sport | 5.11c |
|
70 | 1 |
| From the main Bibliothek wall, head left down a ravine for 50 yards to reach another section of the wall with a few bolted lines. This is the rightmost line on this section of the wall. If you can make it through the first three bolts of dirty and fragile rock then you'll be rewarded with slightly better climbing for the rest of the line. |
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16 |
-1 | The Fury | Sport | 5.11c |
|
70 | 1 |
| This line is just left of A Confederacy of Dunces and also much cleaner. Begin in a swampy mess to gain the face then watch your forearms swell as you take on this overhanging monster of a route. If you're desperate for a rest there are kneebars to be had. |
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17 |
-1 | The Sound | Sport | 5.11c |
|
65 | 1 |
| Just left of The Fury. If you climbed A Confederacy of Dunces and enjoyed it then you've proved that your standards are low enough to have a good time on this route was well. Similar to its neighbors on the right. |
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18 |
-1 | East of Eden | Sport | 5.11d |
|
40 | 1 |
| Walk left from the previous lines about 50 feet. There are three short lines up on a ledge and this is the far right one. Crank a hard pocket problem to start and gain a good jug ledge. Launch onto the sustained face and bicep curl your way to the chains. |
Steepness: |
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19 |
-1 | Lolita | Sport | 5.12a |
|
40 | 1 |
| Just left of East of Eden. This spicy route will keep your attention. Tell your belayer to bring their A game while you clip the third bolt. |
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20 |
-1 | American Psycho | Sport | 5.11a |
|
0 | 1 |
| Move left of Lolita a few feet for this one. It's longer than Lolita and East of Eden but don't expect the same quality. |
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Please select a grade
| Climber | Lead | Attempts | Date | PM Climber |
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