The Crossroads

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.12 6 1 28 35
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Directions to The Crossroads

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
From the Junior Williamson Rest Area, drive south (toward Miguel's) on KY 11. You will pass Roadside and Torrent on the way. Turn right on Fixer Rd and make your first left. Take that road for 3.5 miles (making sure not to turn left where the road seems to want to take you) until you see a black oil tank on your left with a face painted on it. Make a right at the oil tank and then take the second right. Drive down a hill and park just to the right of a steep road that branches left. The main parking area is located here near the kiosk for the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve. From the parking area, walk a few feet past the kiosk to locate the trail marker. Follow the trail down and across a small bridge then along a dirt road for a a short distance. Take the first right on an old oil/logging road. Follow this for around 75 yards then continue left on the road at the fork. Take this to an old oil rig. Behind this the road forks again, take the left fork and follow it around until you can see the cliff. To reach the first routes, look for a trail branching off and uphill on the left. For A1A and the routes right of it remain on the road a bit longer, passing another old oil pump, then head uphill to the cliff.

Wall Sun: Morning to early afternoon



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

N4 Sport 5.10c
 
40
After taking the wooden steps up to the left towards Cannibus Love Generator, the trail splits just past a large tree. This and the next two routes can be found on an outcropping to the left. It's not often when lines this short can be so much fun but this one pulled it off. 40 feet of fun with a nice solid crux at the third. Steepness:

2

Love Potion #9 Sport 5.9
 
65
Just right of N4. Fun face climbing for the first half of the route and sloping slots with tricky feet for the second half. Longer than it looks. Steepness:

3

The Country Boy Sport 5.11b
 
65
Just right of Love Potion. Begin with a reachy move right off the ground then prepare for a strenuous reach-and-release crux between bolts 2 and 3. After wondering how you pulled the crux off enjoy a nice jug run to the chains. Don't worry, they're up there. Steepness:

4

Legalize it Sport 5.12a
 
55
First line right of the previous 3 lines on the vertical wall. It looks impossible but just the right holds are there to make it climbable. Steepness:

5

Wake and Bake Sport 5.11d
 
55
15 feet right of the previous line is another crimp fest but with more holds than its neighbor. Begin on a ledge and step and reach up the slightly less than vertical face. Shift slightly left just before the shuts. Steepness:

6

Hippie Speed Ball Sport 5.11d
 
60
Just right of the slab wall is an overhanging section of the cliff with two nice looking pocket lines. This is the first line on this wall. Clip a high first bolt to begin. Pull through long moves on deep pockets to a crimp crux just before the shuts. Watch out for the tree from the last bolt to the anchors. Steepness:

7

Cannabis Love Generator Sport 5.11c
 
50
Just right of the previous line is another overhanging pocketed line. Climb deep pockets to an obvious crux. Continue on jugs to the anchors or keep moving to the anchors on the previous line for more value. Steepness:

8

Praying Mantis Sport 5.12a
 
55  
Hugs the left leaning arete 15 feet right of Cannabis Love Generator. Steepness:

8a

Evil Eye Sport 5.11d
 
70
This sequential crimp line is located on the slabby wall right of Praying Mantis and just left of Happy Feet. Crimpy and sequency face climbing leads to a slab with a jug rest. Clip a bolt, gaze into the eerie evil eye hold as you float out to the brick shaped knob. Make a long scary move, clip another bolt, and breathe a sigh of relief as you soak up a squat rest. Finish on tiny crimps to the chains. Steepness:

9

Happy Feet Sport 5.11c
 
65
30 feet right of the previous lines is a less than vertical wall. This line begins left of the blunt arete. Climb an easy start then tiptoe up the face while improvising your way through multiple blank sections of rock. Steepness:

10

Signed in Blood Sport 5.12b
 
65  
Climb the blunt arete to the right of Happy Feet, using both sides. Crimps and slopers lead you to a distinctive crux where, depending on your beta, you will do one of the coolest sequences in the Red. Equipped by Kipp Trummel and Wes Allen. Steepness:

10a

Amish Whoopie Cushion Sport 5.11d
 
0
15 feet left of Stomp You Out. Jam or lieback up a short crack to gain a ledge before the mangy slab. Tech your way up to the shallow heuco before firing out a cool boulder problem on solid orange rock, and end with vicious crimps just before the chains. Have your tall partner hang the third draw. Steepness:
Tags
crimpy-3 : confusing-1 : sunny-1

11

Stomp U Out Sport 5.12c
 
65
Head back down to the main trail if approaching from the previous lines, then walk 120 feet right, passing a second oil pump, to locate a small wooden bridge branching left. You will meet the cliff at October Sky. Left of October Sky is a striking orange wall hosting 3 lines. This is the leftmost line. Steepness:

12

Hood Luck Sport 5.12a
 
70
This is the middle of the three lines on the golden wall. Climb through a dirty start to reach a ledge where the good stuff begins. Step off the ledge into some techy powerful pocket pulling with just the right amount of fun thrown in. Equipped by Jeff Neal. Steepness:

13

Fairweather Friend Sport 5.10d
 
80
15 feet left of October Sky (Hood Luck is 25ft left), is this long and varied climb. Pull the buldge, walk the ramp, and enjoy some good movement on solid stone to the top. Like the other routes on this section of wall, the sun can be brutal in summer until 2:00 or so. Steepness:

14

October Sky Sport 5.11c
 
70
This line is almost directly in front of the wooden walkway where the trail meets the cliff. Get your slab on for a brief session, then pinch and crimp through a crux to reach enjoyable face climbing. Reach into the bass mouth for the finale. Steepness:

15

Foot Jive Sport 5.11d
 
65
Move right to locate two more bolted lines, which begin with jugs but turn to attractive stone after the first bolt. This is the first on the left. Solve the very difficult entrance moves to earn the ticket to sustained crimping and high stepping up this beautiful streak of sandstone. Steepness:

16

Whippoorwill Sport 5.11b
 
65
Move 15 feet right for more slabby goodness. As with the previous line you will be rewarded with holds you can feel if you make it through the nerd gate. Steepness:

17

Turkey Crossing Trad 5.4
 
45
Head right along the cliff line to an incut area. This is the wide crack on the left side. Steepness:

18

Buckwheats Climb for Stef Trad 5.6
 
40
First crack right of Turkey Crossing. Could be better if it were longer. Steepness:

19

Stefanie Bauer Route Trad 5.7
 
40
Move right from Buckwheat's Climb to the next crack. Challenging gear in some spots. Steepness:

19a

The Right Bauer Trad 5.8+
 
30  
Climb the podded finger crack to the right of Stephanie Bauer Route to the same anchors. Steepness:

20

A1A Sport 5.10b
 
50
Walk right a bit until you see a section of the cliff containing several bolted lines that surpass a roof shaped like a wave. This is the first of these routes on the left and borders the left edge of the wave roof. Take on a difficult start that quickly eases to fun climbing on solid stone. Steepness:

21

Yell Fire! Sport 5.10d
 
80
The next route right of A1A. Climb a flake to a stance below the roof. Use thin seams to get high feet and gun for the lip. Continue on easier ground to reach the short overhanging pockety finale to the chains. Steepness:

22

Severn Bore Sport 5.11c
 
60
Just right of Yell Fire is another slab to roof problem. Tiptoe up to a decent stance just before the roof then use thin seams and edges to extend as far as possible to reach a good hold in the flake. Thug over the lip then enjoy less stressful climbing to an enjoyable airy finish. Use a long draw for the roof bolt to save your rope. Steepness:

23

Red Tag Rape Sport 5.11c
 
80
This is the route on the far right of the wave. Climb a flake system to reach the crest of the wave. Make use of a pocket and a crimp to pull the lip then fight for a stance. Move up on larger holds to another fun pockety finish. Equipped by Wes Allen. Steepness:

24

Wrong Turn Trad 5.7
 
50
Move right to locate this right angling crack. Enjoy decent protection and a few slabby moves then top it off with a nice set of anchors. Steepness:

25

Banjolero Sport 5.10c
 
65
Around the corner from Wrong Turn is this heavily featured face. Climb to a ledge to reach the high first bolt then continue up the face on pockets and pinches staying left of a crack. Move left onto the face before the chains. Steepness:
Tags
vertical-2 : slopey-1

25a

The Rusty Philosopher Trad 5.10a
 
65  
Climb the left dihedral crack "squeezed" in between Banjolero and Deeznuts, eschewing the bolts if you feel like it. Wild steep stemming and liebacking with a few nice jams thrown in. Easy to toprope from the Banjolero anchor. Steepness:

26

Deeznuts Sport 5.8
 
60
Climb to the same ledge as Banjolero to reach the first bolt; continue up the face staying right of a crack. Stand on a bulging feature to clip the chains. Steepness:

27

Jingus Khan Sport 5.12a
 
70
Just right of Deeznuts is this overhanging and technical crimpfest on solid stone. Begin with a few bolts of sticky friction jugs and horns to reach a rest at a hueco. Move out of the hueco into sustained big moves between decent edges. Steepness:
Tags
stout-1 : contrived-1 : beautiful-1 : technical-1

28

Boilerplate Sport 5.8
 
50
Excellent route for the grade. Head right 50 feet from Banjolero and walk up a steep section of the trail to find this enjoyable line on a northeast facing section of the wall. Begin on a small ledge then pull on solid plates to a steeper run for the chains. Steepness:

29

June Bug Sport 5.11d
 
55
For those who thought Crossroads was all slab. Right of Boilerplate is this steep and well featured face. Begin with some big move cruxes down low then continue up through steep jugs to the chains. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-1 : steep-2 : fun-2 : pockets-1 : juggy-1 : bouldery-1

30

Swallow the Hollow Sport 5.12a
 
70
Walk downhill from June Bug to locate this striking line which climbs easier than it appears. Begin off the boulder on the left and climb up to a stance beneath the meat of the line. Take on the steep face making use of Scream-face holds to reach the obvious duck-bill feature. Shake out then make more big moves culminating in a desperate finale for the chains. No gigantic cheater slings on the anchors! Steepness:

31

Crossroads Crack Mixed Grade Unknown
 
100
A hard boulder problem leads to a spectacular overhanging dihedral in the back of the amphitheater. Equipped by Dustin Stephens. Steepness:

Comments

1
Wes said on November 28th, 2008
This crag has seen some devolpement over the years, but nothing published. There are five bolted lines there, probably from the late 90's, and then some new stuff going up. If you have any info on the older routes, I would love to give them proper names / FA's.
2
Lander said on December 15th, 2008
we looked at this area last spring. i'm about 95% sure the old climbs were put up by " flyin' " brian mcray back in the late nineties. he was active in the southern region back then. the open cold shuts are a strong clue. does anybody know how to reach brian to find out?
3
Lander said on December 15th, 2008
we looked at this area last spring. i'm about 95% sure the old climbs were put up by " flyin' " brian mcray back in the late nineties. he was active in the southern region back then. the open cold shuts are a strong clue. does anybody know how to reach brian to find out?
4
mcrib said on December 15th, 2008
http://www.climbingresoles.com/index.html
5
Wes said on December 16th, 2008
Yep, I have heard that Brian is probably the one who put up the routes as well, but no one seemed to know for sure. The rest of the area has seen some work, a couple trimmed rhodos, an old bolt sleeve near the top, etc. But, nothing permanent or published. It is shaping up to be a pretty cool little crag, just needs some more trail work and a few more routes!
6
Wes said on December 16th, 2008
Just sent Brian an email...
7
Toy said on December 17th, 2008
Brian was bolting in that whole drainage at the same time/slightly after the Hominy Hole was being developed. He used those open cold-shuts a lot (see crime time, routes to the right of rocket dog, etc.) so most likely they are his.
8
SCIN said on April 14th, 2009
Awesome crag. Old school feeling. Nice backdrop of rhodos.
9
Wes said on April 14th, 2009
Since it was pointed out that the other names were kinda boring, I renamed the old routes. If Brian/etc knows the original names, will be glad to change them back.
10
Jeff said on June 16th, 2009
There is now a trail that follows the cliff line from Legalize It to Wrong Turn. It just naturally happened as more lines are being put in. You still have to drop down to the small "creek" to get to the last 2 routes.
11
SCIN said on October 6th, 2012
This has turned out to be one hell of a crag with a great variety of climbing. One of each of the best 5.8, 5.11d, 5.10c, and 5.12a lines in the area.
12
pigsteak said on October 6th, 2012
and today there were over 20 people up there...dogs, tents, hammocks, infants, playpens and noobs learning to clean anchors for the very first time 65 feet up...I kid you not.
13
Jeff said on October 6th, 2012
For routes 1-10 take the First set of steps on your left. For 11-16 pass the steps and take the left at the small "bridge". For 17-24 continue further on main trail and branch left where you see the wave wall, and for routes 25 to end of crag, go right and down at the fork. Yesterday, almost everyone heading towards Boilerplate took the first set of steps and did a lot of unnecessary walking. Much easier with the directions above.
14
Anonymous said on May 15th, 2013
Has anyone ever led the finger seam that shares anchors with "Stefanie Bauer Route?" It is not listed here, nor in the most recent guidebook. My partner and I both led it on 3 pieces of gear the other day, and we are wondering if it could be a FA. We have photos/video to help identify the route and confirm our ascents. -Jack
15
Wolf said on May 15th, 2013
I've led that before. Kind of fun, felt somewhere between 8+ and 9+ to me. I like it better than Stefanie Bauer route, although that's not saying a whole lot.
16
Anonymous said on May 15th, 2013
Dang, no FA for us then. Thanks though. It's good to know that another climber would rate it about the same. I hate small gear, but I would agree it is way better than Stefanie Bauer Route.
17
dustonian said on May 16th, 2013
I think Crompy soloed that one once on an awkward threesome day, and was then too sketched to downclimb it. It was pretty fun looking at him up there all stranded, throwin rocks at him and shit.
18
Cromper said on May 16th, 2013
Hahaha
19
Wolf said on May 16th, 2013
It is rare when it's not awkward and a threesome goes as smoothly as it does in the fantasy.
20
shanks.69 said on May 3rd, 2019
Does anyone know what the routes are directly to the right of Boilerplate? The climb directly right felt slightly easier and more varied than Boiler.
21
shanks.69 said on May 3rd, 2019
Nvm I'm dumb