COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.
Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 1 - 16 17

Directions to Highlands

This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
Highlands offers exceptional and unique climbing for the Red in that the routes tend to be more cruxy in nature than pumpy. That's not to say that you won't suffer a tremendous forearm flame out here though. Bring a brush since the routes may still have a fine layer of powdery lichen. The stone is grey and solid and the holds tend to be subtle sloping pinches and underclings. From the main parking area cross the creek and walk the road passing two roads on the left. Continue without turning down either of these roads until reaching a short road on the right. There is a large boulder adjacent to the end of this short road. Turn down the road and follow it for about 100 feet then take a trail on the right which crosses a stream. Continue along the trail for about 10 minutes, crossing the stream six more times for a total of seven crossings. Just before the eighth crossing look for a faint trail on the right which winds uphill meeting up with the cliff just right of Highlands. Just around the corner to the left is the first route on the right side of the main wall. The wall faces west to northwest receiving afternoon sun but has enough tree coverage to keep it cool in the warmer months. Latitude 37.679722, Longitude -83.676667

Wall Sun: Afternoon

Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture


Pig's Nose Sport 5.11b
2.50  (14) 60ft


Sipping Scotch from a Shallow Grave Sport 5.12a
3.80  (5) 60ft


Knap of Orkney Sport 5.12b
4.00  (2) 60ft


Aye Fair to Middlin' (Project) Sport 5.12b


Dingwall Sport 5.12b
4.63  (8) 70ft


Skinny Malinky Longlegs Sport 5.12a
3.00  (3) 65ft


Arthur's Seat Trad 5.10a
1.00  (1) 65ft  


Wide Boys Sport 5.12b
3.50  (2) 70ft


Blood on the Thistle Sport 5.12d
4.00  (1) 80ft


Nessie Sport 5.12c
4.00  (4) 80ft


Haggis Nugget Sport 5.12b
3.00  (2) 80ft


Bodach Sport 5.12d
4.00  (1) 80ft


Tatty Boggler Sport 5.11b
3.71  (7) 60ft


Plaid Boys Sport 5.12a
4.13  (8) 50ft


William Wall Ace Sport 5.12a
4.00  (6) 50ft


Puggle Me Self Sport 5.12b
3.00  (1) 50ft


Goose Bumples Sport 5.10c
2.00  (17) 50ft


Anonymous said on August 3rd, 2013
Every line on the main wall here has at least one well defined crux but they still have a bit of pump to offer.
Anonymous said on August 3rd, 2013
This will be a great afternoon crag in mid to late fall. Thanks for the work Kipp & crew.
Anonymous said on October 30th, 2013
More shitty rock in the Miller Fork Choss Preserve! Junk.
pigsteak said on December 10th, 2013
hey anon, which routes did you get on to qualify this astute opinion? my guess by next fall you will be in the minority on this assesment.
climb2core said on December 10th, 2013
Troll bites on another troll, cute
dustonian said on December 11th, 2013
I'm confused, where are the routes to the far right on the nice-looking vert orange wall?
ray said on December 11th, 2013
I haven't put them in yet Dustin.
Chuckdott said on May 5th, 2014
Great little crag, nice work! The sun didn't hit today until after 4pm, shade all morning. This crag reminds me a little of Shady Grove.
pigsteak said on July 9th, 2014
awkward and inconsistent climbing on this wall. stay away.
dustonian said on July 9th, 2014
nah, this one just has the "shit kind" of rock
climb2core said on July 10th, 2014
For some reason all the climbs I get on feel awkward and inconsistent.
Rob Smith said on May 18th, 2015
This is a great crag with lines that have very cool boulder problems and sequences. Skinny Malinky Longlegs has one of the coolest moves I have done on a route at the Red. Right now the wall suffers from a lot of lichen, but hopefully that will improve with traffic. I've noticed a few lines have more bolts than needed, such as Plaid Boys (I skipped two) and Dingwall (skipped one) but those bolts will be nice for people working the routes.