Clearcut Wall

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.8 7 - - 7
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Directions to Clearcut Wall

USFS
This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
Drive 1.4 miles down County Road 1067 from the steel bridge on KY 77 (1.2 miles from the Long Wall parking area). The gravel road changes to asphalt at the Menifee and Powell county line. About a mile farther is a farmhouse and barn on the left and a gravel road on the right (Forest Service Road 9). Turn down that road and proceed 1.1 miles and cross a bridge. This brings you to the intersection of 9A and 9B. Turn right after the bridge onto 9B. Drive 0.5 miles down 9B and park on your right. Ford the creek nearby and hike up the ridge located directly across from the parking spot. Pass through a limestone cliff band and proceed to the nearest buttress. Hike around a corner to the right and locate a huge roof with a thin crack out its middle.

Wall Sun: All day



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Bushwhack Crack Trad 5.8+
 
45
This route ascends the dihedral left of Blue Thunder. Steepness:

2

Blue Thunder Trad 5.8-
 
45  
Under the obvious huge roof on the far left side of the wall are two dihedrals. This route ascends the right one. Steepness:

2a

Lost Thunder Trad 5.9
 
35  
Above and right of Blue Thunder is this short dihedral that leads to the top with a wonderful view. Bouldery start, 35 feet Steepness:

3

Vascular Massacre Trad 5.12a
 
35  
Directly above Bushwhack Crack is this short but powerful overhanging handcrack in a dihedral. Climb the crack and finish in a short offwidth. Steepness:

4

Trailer Trash Trad 5.6
 
35  
Walk about 150 feet left and around the corner from Bushwhack Crack to a short wall with many cracks in the face. This route ascends the wide crack to the right of Linus. Steepness:

5

Linus Trad 5.10b
 
35  
This route climbs the thin finger crack that starts directly in front of a tree. Steepness:

6

Baptist Preacher Trad 5.6
 
70
Hike the cliffline left from Linus for about 300 feet turning a couple of corners in the process. You will walk through a tree split by lightning. Look for an obvious wide crack splitting the face with a small roof about 8 feet up and another 50 feet up. Climb the wide crack to a ledge beneath a roof. Belay or continue through the roof paying close attention to rope drag. This route is also visible to your left as you reach the cliff from the approach trail. Steepness:

Comments

1
ahab said on April 27th, 2009
There are 3 cracks to the right of Linus on this face. I'm guessing the first one right of Linus is Trailer Trash. To the right of Trailer Trash is a wide flake (5.7-5.8?) that is directly beneth a large tree with some webbing and a quicklink. To the right of this line is a finger crack that fades out about 30ft. up and then climbs the dirty, runout face to a different tree with webbing and an old locking biner. It felt around 9+ and was decent, so I'm sure someone has climbed it before. Why aren't these documented?
2
ynot said on June 11th, 2009
It's a bit confusing. I thought the short finger crack was Linus. The wide Flake has been done. I did two cracks that could be trailer trash. The other is left, around the corner and off width. The only thing I am sure of up there is Bushwack crack kicks ass! clean, verticle, long and tough.
3
SCIN said on June 11th, 2009
Linus is a short finger crack and Trailer Trash is just right of it. I remember being kind of sketched leading Linus but I don't recall a 30 foot runout.