COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Deep End

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 4 - 16 20
loading

Directions to Deep End

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
From the parking area cross the large creek. Follow the main road and take the second road on your left as you would for serenity point, cooper's cove etc. Continue on this road past the trail for Serenity point etc. Cross a small creek and continue on the road. Walk up a steep hill affectionately called peanut butter hill to reach an oil pump. 100 feet past the oil pump you will see an obvious trail on your left. This meets up with the cliff near The Abyss, Adult Swim, etc. Routes 1 through 4 will be to the left of this starting off a 5 foot wide ledge. Latitude 37.694021,Longitude -83.668794

Wall Sun: Shade



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

0a

 Let's Get Stupid Bouldering V0
 
 10  
Tall arete on far left near Behind the Green Curtain. Steepness:

0b

 Temple of Onan Bouldering V1
 
 10  
Face to arete just behind the start to Muckraker. Steepness:

0c

 PTO Trad 5.10b
 
 80
This green line is located directly to the left of Behind the Green Curtain. If you find yourself clipping the chains on this one, you might be one of the most psyched climbers in the Red River Gorge. Thin mossy hands leads to a rest before a burly but dry crux pulling a small roof on good hand jams, with one last surprise waiting for you at the anchors. Equipped by Max McLaughlin Steepness:

1

 Behind the Green Curtain Trad 5.10a
 
 65  
Walk left 2 minutes through the gully below the ledge hosting sport routes 1-4. Work up the initial dihedral left of two steep unlisted bolted lines, then change corners and hand jam the nice upper dihedral. Steepness:

1a

 Tsunami Sport 5.13a
 
 50
Walk left of the ledge routes about 100 feet until you reach a small amphitheater hosting several sport routes. This is the line of glue-ins just left of the obvious arete on the right side of the wall. A jump start to three bolts of 5.10 jugs leads to several hard boulder problems with a good rest between. A slam dunk dyno to a mailbox slot tops off this bouldery line. Steepness:

1b

 Muckraker Sport 5.12c
 
 50
Climbs the obvious arete right of Tsunami. Steepness:

1c

 Low Standards Trad 5.8
 
 20  
Short splitter hand crack 50' right and uphill of Muckraker. Steepness:

2

 Silicosis Sport 5.11d
 
 70
Start on far left side of the ledge from a ramp. Pull a tough height dependent dead point to start and climb to the top on mostly good holds. Steepness:

3

 The Cough Sport 5.10c
 
 65
Start from a pile of cheater stones and cruise through jugs to the anchors. Steepness:

4

 Lichenosis Sport 5.11a
 
 70  
Another pumper complete with a bulge at the 4th bolt which has the strong possibility of motivating a take. Hang on if you can to reach the giant hueco at the last bolt where reprieve can be found. Steepness:

5

 Natural Ice Sport 5.11b
 
 70  
Head left from the main wall to the large ledge where several lines begin. This is the first line on the right. Steepness:

6

 Green Room Sport 5.12b
 
 65
Pull a low boulder problem then continue up through vertical terrain to reach an overhanging headwall. Study the crux holds carefully, make your left-right hold decision, and go with it. Steepness:

7

 The Guillotine Sport 5.13b
 
 75
On the opposing wall left of The Abyss is a pair of lines on the vertical to overhanging wall. Precarious movement leads to a roof where creative footwork is crucial to holding the swing while slapping for the good hold. Equipped by John Flunker in 2013. Anchors have chains and Q-links to lower/rap from, and 2 permadraws now exist in the roof section. Steepness:

8

 The Abyss Sport 5.12d
 
 90
Just left of Adult Swim is this sustained masterpiece which leads through a large roof where a long reach will dictate your effort level. Unclipping the fifth and skipping the second fixed chain will reduce the rope drag. Perma-draw equipped. Steepness:

9

 Adult Swim Sport 5.13a
 
 90
This is the middle steep line on the main wall. Begin with high iron oxide edges then pull up into a nose-feature where the difficult climbing begins. Crank through a few bolts worth of pocket tweaking to reach a well needed rest before the steep headwall. An onsite killer awaits before the last bolt. Steepness:

10

 Heavy Seas Sport 5.13b
 
 75
A boulderer's dream, matey. Gain a no hands stance at the second bolt then take on very difficult moves through pockets and small crimps to the roof without broaching. Enjoy calm currents to the chains. Steepness:

11

 Knuckle Sauce Sport 5.12a
 
 75
Starts on the left facing arete leading to the vertical face above. Technical climbing on edges and pockets with good rests. Steepness:
 Tags
fun-1 : technical-2

12

 Half Mast Sport 5.11b
 
 55
The obvious fin arete. Negotiate a low bulge with awkward moves at the first bolt to make a somewhat sketchy second clip. Take on the face making use of the rounded arete when possible. The longer your reach the less chance of needing to leave the comfort of the arete for more difficult crimping on the face. Steepness:

12a

 The Salty Dawgs Sport 5.9
 
 55
Shares the first bolt with Half Mast then veers right on glue-ins up the brief slab section to a secondary ledge. Cruise up the jug-covered face and pull into a small alcove at the top. Steepness:

13

 Peeping Tom Trad 5.8
 
 65  
This is the juggy dihedral which leads to an open offwidth near the top. Begins just right of Half Mast. Steepness:

14

 Pool Boy Sport 5.10b
 
 75
This line starts the same as the line to the right but heads straight up past a low two-finger pocket crux. Near the middle pass a tempting ledge to the left and run it out on big holds to the next bolt where the moves get even bigger. Steepness:

15

 Fluffer Sport 5.10a
 
 70
When the approach trail meets the cliff walk right and around the corner from the main wall to locate a pair of lines right of a sharp arete. This is the rightmost line. Negotiate a slightly dirty start to gain the face which begins with technical thin climbing and leads to larger holds on steeper terrain. Steepness:

Comments

10 comments {add your own comments}
1
Cromper said on August 3rd, 2013
Killer summer crag, hardly gets any sun.
2
Anonymous said on August 5th, 2013
so it's manky damp all day then? great
3
Anonymous said on August 5th, 2013
You know it, worst crag in the red. There is actually a large machine that has been installed that humidifies the air in the cave. It's a god damn sauna.
4
Anonymous said on October 30th, 2013
More Miller Fork choss!
5
dustonian said on December 3rd, 2013
Man I miss the giant pile of beer cans at this crag.
6
pigsteak said on April 12th, 2014
loved pool boy and fluffer..thx dustion and flunkie
7
dustonian said on April 12th, 2014
Actually that was largely Jimmy Hoctah's werk... especially the ocd level of brushing required
8
whoneedsfeet said on April 13th, 2014
For the low low price of a 6 pack of tall boys, (beast ice is good) you too can have your dirty pile of choss scrubbed clean and purty with the Hoctor effect.
9
Cromper said on February 8th, 2016
Dirty arete right of holy diver is currently a closed project in the mid 12 range. If I don't gather the motivation this spring or summer to clean it up I'll open it up. -Scott
10
Anonymous said on April 7th, 2016
There is some fun bouldering over by Tsunami and Muckraker on left wall