The Infirmary

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 2 2 40 44
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Directions to The Infirmary

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
This wall is left of Cooper's Cove and right of Cloud 9. It's one of the more popular walls in Miller Fork along with Cooper's Cove due to the density of moderate yet overhanging and pumpy lines. This and Cooper's Cove could easily be 5.11 heaven in anyone's book. The wall faces south to southeast. From the main parking area cross the creek and walk down the road until reaching the second road on the left. Walk down this road, passing the obvious trailhead on the right leading to Serenity Point, until reaching a road on the right which crosses a creek. This road is marked by a muddy parking area just before the main road angles right and continues uphill to the Deep End. Cross the creek and continue down this muddy road for about five minutes until the road severely breaks down near a stream. At his point look for a trail on the right which winds uphill to The Infirmary. You will meet up with the wall near a gigantic boulder and the route named Trephination. Latitude 37.6419448853, Longitude -83.6833343506

Wall Sun: All day

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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Recovery Room Sport 5.10b
 
60
This is the rightmost line on the wall at this time. Walk right from where the approach trail meets the cliff. Cross a large ravine and continue to a flat area where several lines begin. Begin on a ten foot high ledge. Climb up to another ledge then pull out onto the well featured orange and black face which kicks back midway for mega-steep jug pulling. Steepness:

2

ReCooperAte Sport 5.8
 
35  
A short affair left of Recovery Room. Steepness:

3

Family History Sport 5.11a
 
60
Thin plates and pockets lead to a layback after which a scary but solid rest awaits. Pull over a small roof on good pockets to reach the chains. Steepness:

4

Bipolar Sport 5.11b
 
55
Just right of a crack. Big pockets and edges lead to a roof pull where the angle kicks back and the holds get smaller. Give full effort all the way to the chains. Steepness:

5

Zoonotic Sport 5.10d
 
50
On the left side of the wall before the ravine is a very blunt arete with a set of spook eyes just within reach marking the start of this climb. Begin with three bolts of excellent climbing and end with 5 bolts of un-excellent climbing. Steepness:

6

On Bended Knee Sport 5.11a
 
60
Starts in a dihedral. Power through the steepest part of the route. Get your bearings back in the middle section and enjoy one last technical move to the chains. Steepness:

7

Endless Numbered Days Sport 5.13b
 
45
Mantle onto the ledge to gain the overhanging face. A few moderate moves on good pockets leads to a long sequential boulder problem culminating properly with a mantle. Steepness:

8

Anaphylaxis Sport 5.12c
 
75
Head down the ravine from the previous group of lines to locate this steep, bolted dihedral. Thin tips liebacking and power stemming leads to moderate, fun jug pulling. Steepness:
Tags
stout-1 : dihedral-2

9

Treponema pallidum Sport 5.12b
 
80
Left of the bolted dihedral is another line which begins near a built-up sandbox in a swampy section of the trail. A stab to a decent edge gets you started. Another edge stab to get over the roof and then it's a long, steep haul on jugs the rest of the way. Steepness:

10

Quarantine Sport 5.12c
 
80
The crux of this line is getting off the ground then bouldering around often wet rock for the first two bolts. After which a steep jug haul awaits. If you can catch this one bone dry it may be worth the time. Otherwise move on. Steepness:

11

The Therapist (Open Project) Sport 5.13+
 
90  
Bolted by Mike Wheatley and Ben Hagan. Starts in the dihedral left of Quarantine with easy climbing to the 4th bolt and above the 9th bolt, and no-hands rests at bolts 9 and 14. Steepness:

12

Psych Ward Sport 5.12d
 
120  
Start 40 feet left of Quarantine with a campus off a diagonal flake. 30 feet of bouldery and sometimes delicate climbing brings you to 30 feet of easy slab. Now your work begins with 60 feet of steep, rugged climbing. Equipped by Mike Wheatley. Steepness:

13

Last Rites Sport 5.12b
 
100
Begin on Diminished but cut right to take on what may be one of the steepest and most consistent buckethauls in the Preserve. Spicy runouts near the top provide some additional flavor. Steepness:

14

Diminished Gluteal Syndrome Sport 5.12d
 
100
Begin as with Last Rights but head directly into the steep cave gunning for the sit-down rests. Pace yourself for the exposed boulder problem before the chains. Steepness:

15

Foaming at the Mouth Sport 5.13a
 
100
Romp up the dihedral to a low crux in the hueco-like feature followed by jugs that go on forever and then another crux at the top. Back-cleaning the first two draws reduces drag. Steepness:
Tags
classic-1 : exposed-1

16

Halitosis Sport 5.12d
 
75
Begins on Push Present but trends right after the first bolt up and into a hueco. A tough boulder problem out of the hueco leads to sustained movement on decent sized holds. Equipped by Andrew Wheatley. Steepness:
Tags
bouldery-2

17

Push Present Sport 5.11d
 
80
The steep arete on the right side of the main wall. If Kaleidoscope is above your head then here's a toned down version for ya. Long, steep, pumpy, and well varied climbing. Steepness:

17a

Psychosomatic Sport 5.12a
 
80  
Like an Oreo, this climb is tough cookies at the beginning and end, with a soft creamy center. Hard bouldery movement is rewarded by a no-hands rest. Moderate climbing leads to a distinct crux pulling the roof. Get one last shake before taking on the moves from the final bolt to the chains. Steepness:

18

Pandemic Sport 5.12b
 
85
Begin with a big pull over a low roof. Travel through a steep haul on big holds to meet up with a tough boulder problem just before a roof. This route is the only one on this wall that goes over the roof so unlike the others it doesn't stay dry in heavy rain. However, if you can hang onto wet jugs you should be fine. Steepness:

19

Sacbrood Virus Sport 5.12a
 
75
Begin with the same start as Pandemic but trend left to meet up with excellent pocket climbing that will sap you enough to make the final 20 feet worth fighting for. Steepness:

20

Magic Bed Sport 5.11b
 
70
Pop up to a large expanding ledge and reach over a small bulge to begin. Climb on big holds angling right towards a fat flake. Crawl into a nasty hueco if you dare or skirt the right edge on sandy rock after which you will meet up with a stellar finish making it worth the trip. Steepness:

21

Phantom Pain Sport 5.11c
 
65
Begin with a big move to a nice angled jug. Move up through several flat sections of rock using big pulls on big holds. Surpass a small roof at the top and dig deep at the chains. Steepness:

22

Typhoid Mary Sport 5.10a
 
55
This line begins just right of the large boulder on an arete. Climbing to the first set of anchors is 5.10a and to the second set is 5.11d. To the second set is often wet which is why the first set was put in place. Steepness:

23

Typhoid Fever Sport 5.11d
 
75  
Bouldery 2-bolt extension to Typhoid Mary. You can check conditions in the water streak from the ground. Steepness:

24

Ebola Sport 5.12b
 
70
Begin atop the large boulder. A garden variety of jugs and the occasional deep pocket give way to a serious high crux. A periscope may help with the onsite. Steepness:

25

Brachial Plexus Sport 5.11c
 
80
Begins behind the giant boulder. Phenomenol moves, mega-steep, fat jugs, lots of climbing, and a well defined crux. What more could you ask for in a mid-range 5.11? One of the best in its class. Steepness:

26

Beta Blocker Sport 5.12b
 
70
Bouldery climbing up the obvious rail feature. Steepness:
Tags
dynamic-1

27

Trephination Sport 5.11d
 
85
Excellent! Begin behind the large boulder in a sandy alcove. Pull out on decent slots which continue up the steep face until morphing into phenomenal sloping pinches delivering a wicked pump. Steepness:

28

Plague Doctor Sport 5.12a
 
85
Stand on a boulder to start this long steep journey on large holds which thin out near the top. Steepness:

29

Triage Sport 5.12b
 
85
Begin on a boulder. Seek big edges and pockets angling right and up to a small roof at mid route. After pulling the roof the angle steepens and the pump clock begins. Steepness:

30

Pre-Op Sport 5.10d
 
45  
Next route left of Triage. Begin on a high ledge. Not quite the quality of the other 5.10 to the left but still delivers a good pump for the grade. Climb finger pockets to chains just before a small roof. Steepness:

31

Porphyria Sport 5.11a
 
60
Second last route on the left and beginning on the high ledge. Pours on the pump enough to make the crux a bit tough but then gives you huge jugs on interesting features to keep the grade down. Steepness:

32

Aquagenic Urticaria Sport 5.10b
 
45  
Furthest bolted line on the left at this time. Begins on the high ledge amd follows a meandering, closed down crack past a bulge and ends with a fight. A great warm up for the wall and guaranteed to stay dry. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-4 : fun-1

33

Malpractice Trad 5.9
 
60  
Starts at the left end of the ledge in the obvious right-facing crack. Climb up under the small roof where the crack turns into a seam and traverse right and up- horizontals provide protection until the crack opens up again. Follow the remaining flakes to chains. Steepness:

34

Free Clinic Sport 5.7
 
50  
Steepness:

35

Wheelchair Access Sport 5.8
 
65  
Walk left from the main wall on the path towards Cloud Nine about 70 feet. This is the bolted slab on the right that ends at the bulge. Steepness:
Tags
vertical-1 : steep-1

36

Hyperbaric Chamber Trad 5.7
 
85  
Start at the triangular cove formed by two slabs and follow the crack above up and left towards a notch at the ledge about 65 feet up. Pull through the notch to a slabby finish with bolted anchors. There are horizontals for gear where the crack disappears in the middle. Steepness:

37

98.6 Sport 5.10c
 
65  
Start on the detached slab left of Hyperbaric Chamber and follow two bolts up to a ledge. Traverse left to reach 3rd bolt and angle up and left to the finish. Steepness:
Tags
pockets-1

38

Scoliosis Mixed 5.9+
 
100  
Long, dirty and adventurous, this one is worth the effort if you like adventurous trad and scenic topouts. A run-out slab can be eased with tricky gear in horizontals in pockets and long slings. Steepness:

39

L.A. Branch Office Sport 5.11a
 
65  
Walk uphill along the wall to an archlike feature. Figure out the crux through the bulge and thinner holds to the second and third bolts, then enjoy the slabbier section to the anchors. Steepness:

40

Platelet Rich Injection Sport 5.8+
 
55
Up and left 20' from L.A. Branch where a large boulder forms a chimney and dihedral with the wall. You can stem up the dihedral to a jugleft of the first bolt or try a V2/3 boulder problem straight up. Either way leads to an enjoyable slab with big plates near the finish. Steepness:

41

Plasma Spill Mixed 5.6
 
60  
Start the same as Platelet Rich, but head left through the hueco after the first bolt and follow the meandering crack to a tree ledge above with two slung trees for anchors. Bring some longer slings and use a horn along the way. Steepness:

41a

Vitamin C Sport 5.10a
 
60
Named for the stunning orange lichen that can only be seen while on route. Like falling ill, this route is mild in the beginning, uncomfortable in the thick of it, and recovery comes at last near the chains. Steepness:

42

Temperature Rising Sport 5.8
 
75  
Left of Plasma Spill and just before you get to Cloud 9 is another slab you just can't miss. Figure out the bulge at the 2nd bolt and you'll be hiking the rest. Steepness:

Comments

1
Andrew said on August 5th, 2013
Soon to be 5.11 paradise. Probably the best crag in history.
2
pigsteak said on August 5th, 2013
this isnt your wall is it Andrew? cuz I saw those lines, and they are complete piles.
3
Andrew said on August 5th, 2013
You are thinking of the highlands.
4
Anonymous said on August 6th, 2013
Andrew wouldn't know 5.11 if it fell from the sky and hit him in the face.
5
Brentucky said on August 6th, 2013
hahaha, while i agree with anon, i am personally looking forward to more of andrew's 5.11's. if he starts putting up 5.12's we are gonna be in trouble.
6
whoneedsfeet said on August 6th, 2013
Andrew will prob never climb 5.12 again. I have a better chance of sending 5.12 before then.
7
Andrew said on August 6th, 2013
Sadly I might not be able to climb 5.12 again. My finger is really jacked up.
8
Wolf said on August 6th, 2013
If all else fails, just go Caldwell on it.
9
Willy said on August 10th, 2013
Chop it off!!!! You can probably borrow the clippers Whoneedsfeet used to make himself a girl
10
whoneedsfeet said on August 10th, 2013
The only reason I chopped it of was due to not wanting to spread the disgusting diseases your moms asshole and mouth carry. Doing mankind a bit of a courtesy.
11
climb2core said on October 16th, 2013
Had a peek at this wall. Looks like there are some fantastic lines on it already with more to come. Thanks for the work Wheatley's and company.
12
Anonymous said on October 17th, 2013
Are the developers ever going to get up off their lazy asses and get this crag up and running?
13
Anonymous said on October 17th, 2013
most of the routes are open, asswipe
14
Andrew said on October 17th, 2013
Almost all the routes are open, 8 so far. There is a topo with names and grades if you are in the club. The developers are super lazy so give it some time, but they will be there on saturday for the mega opening day unveiling of the Infirmary.
15
Anonymous said on October 17th, 2013
Andrew, "Just trying to rustle your jimmies" That saying was too good to not use again. ;) Thanks for the work! Ian.
16
dustonian said on October 17th, 2013
Thanks for the invite Andrew, I see how it is. Just stay off my bad ass pork-barrel earmarked stopgap spending retaining wall in the back of the holler!!
17
dustonian said on October 17th, 2013
PS. Did your routes on the right side last week... good ol' achy-breaky fun!
18
Andrew said on October 17th, 2013
"ol' achy-breaky fun!" not getting the reference, but yes still breaky.
19
dustonian said on October 17th, 2013
I enjoyed them. I think it's an old Billy Ray Cyrus song.
20
Andrew said on December 9th, 2013
This is the next crag left of Cooper's Cove. The left side main wall gets full sun most of the day and the right side is in the shade until about 3:00. You can quickly walk there from Cooper's or use the directions listed above.
21
512OW said on May 12th, 2014
We arrived at 1:45 on a very sunny day (in May), and not a spot of sunshine touched the wall the rest of the day.
22
Anonymous said on October 23rd, 2015
Really nice crag! thanks for all the work. I remember back in the day wanting pumpier 11s to get in "Red Shape"  Lines like magic bed and phantom pain were difficult to come by it seemed. Really can't say enough good about this cliff!
23
ermabern said on May 24th, 2016
two dogs have gotten bit by snakes at this crag so far this spring (may 2016) so be aware and consider putting your dog on a leash
24
Anonymous said on May 24th, 2016
nahhh, why would you want to follow the rules? they don't apply to you or your dog.
25
Anonymous said on May 30th, 2016
Trail out here is turning into one big foot deep mid pit.
26
Anonymous said on May 30th, 2016
Walk over from Coopers
27
Scorl said on July 4th, 2017
There is currently a very large colony of what I think are Bumble Bees nesting at the Infirmary. The nest is quite extensive and covers ALL of the ground under Typhoid Mary, Phantom Pain, and Magic Bed. And prevents you from walking along the wall between the amphitheater and the Left End of the wall. 400+ bees probably, and audible from even a ways down the trail. The routes behind the large boulder (Brachial Plexus, and left) are still accessible but should be approached from the main trail along the creek.
28
Cocoapuffs1000 said on July 4th, 2017
The ground bees have been nesting there since at least the previous spring. They are very close to Magic Bed, however they have never been aggressive. We've done that route a number of times over several visits this and last year and were never bothered. I would only stay away if you are allergic, but obviously be on your guard especially with dogs and children.
29
Andrew said on July 5th, 2017
Are the bees under "sacbrood virus" , what a coincidence.
30
Anonymous said on April 12th, 2018
Hornets nest to left of push present on ledge in bushes. May be active when weather warms up. Send gumby for help!
31
Anonymous said on October 18th, 2018
Main trail in much better shape now, even after rain. Lot of work laying down all that stone, no doubt. Thanks
32
Anonymous said on May 30th, 2019
Any beta on new route to left of push present?
33
Anonymous said on May 31st, 2019
JFC
34
Anonymous said on May 31st, 2019
no clue what the hell JFC means
35
Anonymous said on May 31st, 2019
All the snakes and bees at this crag are sketching me out. I'll stick with muir valley from now on
36
Anonymous said on June 3rd, 2019
Yeah, better to stick with the muir-zoo. Infirmary is more of a locals crag anyways