COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Graveyard

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.12 3 3 12 18
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Directions to Graveyard

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
TBD

Wall Sun:



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

0

 A Murder of Crows (Closed Project) Sport 5.13c
 
 85  
The first bolted line at Graveyard on the massive white wall. Starts out easy but the sense on impending doom is omnipresent. Equipped by Shadow Ayala in 2015. Steepness:

1

 Grim Reaper Sport 5.12a
 
 100
Located on the intimidating steep grey wall this line is one of the best of the grade. You will rarely find a route this long and this steep with holds so big your fingers disappear when you grab them. The fun comes with an entry fee though consisting of a tough boulder problem followed by a slightly technical face climb. If you make it past that channel your inner Tarzan and let the swinging begin. Steepness:

2

 Electric Funeral Sport 5.13a
 
 100
If Grim Reaper was your kind of line then here's a tougher version for ya. The crux in the middle is technical and height dependent. Don't expect a gimme though even if you have the reach because the pump will still be there. Steepness:

3

 Gallows March Sport 5.12b
 
 60
This one will put your ape index to the test! A long and tensiony move gets you onto the steep arete loaded with sinker pockets and wrapper jugs. Exit the arete into dynamic moves spanning the extent of the average climber's reach. When in doubt just launch and know it will be good. Steepness:

4

 Grave Digger Mixed 5.11a
 
 70
Just before a gully in the trail is this pocketed dihedral plagued with a chossy start. If you can stomach the beginning the corner will make you forget about it. A bolted vertical face takes this one beyond the crack. Bring small gear for the corner and a big cam for the chossy start. Steepness:

5

 Tombstone Mixed 5.11b
 
 70
Scramble up to a high, roomy ledge to gain the crack and the first couple pieces of pro. Climb a hollowish, but easy, flake to gain the relief of a delicate and technical bolted face. Steepness:

6

 Pall Bearer Trad 5.9
 
 60
This striking, left arching hand crack is guaranteed to have you pulling the cams out of the closet. A tricky corner switch guards the chains. Steepness:

7

 Dead Baby Trad 5.8
 
 30  
The short corner right of Cousin of Death. Gear to 3". Steepness:

8

 The Cousin of Death Sport 5.11d
 
 60
This line takes on the stunning rounded arete around the corner from Pall Bearer crack. A shin buster start leads to the arete which requires creative hand shuffling and on-the-go foothold ticking. This one is far from straightforward. Steepness:

9

 Evil Dead Sport 5.12a
 
 60
Around the corner from Cousin of Death is a clean, easy looking slab loaded with bolts. This is the first on the right and requires seasons in Tuolumne or some sort of wizardry to ascend. 4 stars if you like slab, -5 stars if you don't. Steepness:

10

 Smoking the Dark Crystal Sport 5.12a
 
 60
Another wickedly difficult slab climb also requiring wizardry but also the addition of some witchcraft. Steepness:

11

 Pet Cemetery Sport 5.11c
 
 60
The leftmost slab climb on this section of wall before the trail dips. This one doesn't require wizardry or witchcraft, as the two to the right do, but some sort of luck will definitely come in handy. Steepness:

12

 Unmarked Grave Sport 5.11b
 
 60
This slab is marked by a hueco at arms reach with assist from a pile of cheater stones. Heave up into the hueco to meet a tough mantel move which situates you on the face. A continous series of of tricky moves allows for a break in the middle in a body sized hueco. When the toes are ready for more come out da hole to tiptoe some mo. Steepness:

13

 Ghost Dog Sport 5.11d
 
 70
Climb out of a crusty blob and over a low roof for 50 feet of easy climbing corroded white jugs ending at a hard move on sandy holds. Are you enticed? Steepness:

14

 Rest in Pieces Mixed 5.11c
 
 80
Mixed line with a single bolt left of Ghost Dog. Gear beta (you may want this): Bring a .4 or yellow Alien and a 2" cam to protect the moves after the runout on the face. You can also place a .75 immediately below the anchors to reduce leg shake. Steepness:

14a

 Altered State Trad 5.11c
 
 80
The obvious steep left-leaning crack between RIP and DOA. Start up on the ledge by scrambling in from below DOA and belay from medium cams. A BD #5 is useful for the top crux but not required. Steepness:

15

 Dead on Arrival Sport 5.11d
 
 60
This is one of the most unique and fascinating lines in its class and offers what may be the steepest and wildest ride you will ever encounter for a route of its grade. Begin on a nice, flat belay ledge and tackle the left-angling line of hand sized pockets leading up to a photo finish anchor clip. Your belayer may get vertigo trying to keep up with exactly which way you are climbing. Another line is bolted left of this route but no details are known at this time. Steepness:

16

 Fly Swatter Sport 5.10c
 
 65  
Steepness:

Comments

7 comments {add your own comments}
1
Anonymous said on September 18th, 2013
the crag stays in the shade pretty much all day. catches a little sun in the afternoon.
2
Anonymous said on October 29th, 2013
seems like this crag faces kind of west/southwest, is it really shady all day?
3
Anonymous said on September 10th, 2014
No. Anonymous #1s comments were tongue in cheek...
4
Anonymous said on September 10th, 2014
Beautifully developed crag, great decision on the trad and mixed lines.
5
andy_c said on October 13th, 2014
I think the hike to this wall would take about 45m from the main parking lot, but the climbs look fantastic! Also, I've been covered in poison ivy for almost 3 weeks after finding my way there.
6
shadow.ayala said on October 14th, 2014
If you follow the trail across from the small fruit wall parking spot, it goes to the Laboratory. You can then walk the trail left from the Lab, through the notch. It takes about 25-30min in total to get to the Graveyard from the main lot if you walk this way. The Lab is also a good spot to warm up so the walk is only 15-20 min.
7
XplosionOflaver said on May 17th, 2015
Looking for top ten pumpfest? Look no further....DOA and Grim Reaper are two of the best around.