COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

The Laboratory

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 3 - 11 14

Directions to The Laboratory

This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
Routes are listed from left to right. If you follow the trail across from the small fruit wall parking spot, it goes to the Laboratory. You can then walk the trail left from the Lab, through the notch. It takes about 25-30min in total to get to the Graveyard from the main lot if you walk this way. The Lab is also a good spot to warm up so the walk is only 15-20 min.

Wall Sun:

Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture


Young Flakenstein Sport 5.11b
This thin, bolted flake is located on the far right side of the wall. A tips section for the first ten feet gets you into larger holds for the remainder of the flake. As the flake fades, escape onto the face using small crimps. Steepness:


Weird Science Sport 5.12a
Just left of Young Flakenstein, if you look hard, is a low, small pocket and a couple of micro-edges. If you can figure out how to solve that puzzle you'll be rewarded with some great, moderate climbing for the rest of the route. Steepness:


Nikola Tesla Sport 5.11c
Chimney up a wide flake to reach a thin tips crack. Exit the comfort of the chimney with a tough gaston move and continue up the face through a stack of tricky moves with sparse feet culminating in a thrutch to a thank-God ear. Tread carefully and choose wisely from the pool of fragile jugs from the last bolt to the chains. You will be severely pissed if you made it this far and a jug breaks. Steepness:


Dyno Project (Project) Sport 5.13b
Just right of the blunt arete where Micro Array is located is this challenging face climb. Equipped by Shadow Ayala. Steepness:


Micro Array Sport 5.11c
This blunt arete and slab climb may be on the shorter side but the amount of down climbing you do while trying to piece it together will add up to a nice, full pitch. Steepness:


Codie Marie Trad 5.8
The nice, wide dihedral just left of Micro Array. Steepness:


Pinky and the Brain (Closed Project) Sport 5.12d
Just left of Codie Marie. Boulder problem to fun easy climbing on orange rock to an overhanging headwall with a smack down boulder problem. Equipped by Shadow Ayala in 2015. Steepness:


Tittie Twister Sport 5.12b
On the face to the right of the rockhouse is this steeper line of pockets in white sandstone. Although the movement is fun, the rock is fairly soft and poor for the majority of the route. Exiting the overhanging section onto the slab at the top requires some creative hold grabbing and tiny crimp cranking. Steepness:


Knockout Mouse Trad 5.10b
Begin in the back of the rockhouse and climb out the roof, back cleaning gear along the way to avoid rope drag. Pull the roof and back-clean the last piece(s) from above. Protects very well. Finish on the anchors of Tittie Twister. Steepness:


Re-Animator Sport 5.11b
The bolted line left of the large rockhouse and wide crack. Begin right of an orange and black flake on a line of pockets which fade, along with the flake, after a small roof. Step back and forth as needed to stem the crack to the right as you discern a series of shallow dishes and the occasional jug. A medium sized cam may settle the nerves from the last bolt to the chains. Steepness:


Test Tube Trad 5.6
This unique trad line starts in the gap between the main wall and the big pinnacle. Shimmy up the right side of the easy chimney formed by a small pillar next to the pinnacle. Continue up the nicely featured slab above with small and medium pieces in horizontals and belay on top from a bolt anchor. Steepness:


Litmus Test Sport 5.12a
This gorgeous, challenging line takes on the middle, gold section of the large freestanding pinnacle. Stacked, progressively more difficult sequences on dime edges culminate in a potential battle for the last bolt. Steepness:


Western Blot Sport 5.11d
The striking left arete on the detached pillar. Continuous crimping on solid orange rock complete with a nice break in the middle providing for a great, scenic view as well as a nice jug to eye out the crux holds from. Steepness:


Reverse Transcription Sport 5.11c
The long, vertical face left of the arete. Steepness:


Anonymous said on January 26th, 2015
probably more like 10 min to Lab from the lot and 15 to Graveyard
climb2core said on February 3rd, 2015
Wall sun beta?
Anonymous said on February 3rd, 2015
Almost all day