Secret Garden

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.9 11 3 32 46
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Directions to Secret Garden

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
Take the trail on the grassy road behind the big Eureka oil tanks. Trend left to come up around Linear Regression. Head left for routes 1-5 and right for the rest. To reach routes 32-41, at the informational sign, head down an old road bed instead of going uphill. You will shortly see a trail heading off to the right. Follow it to the first route (No Regrets). The rest of the routes will be to the climber's right down the cliff trail.

Wall Sun:

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Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Lightning Zap (Project) Sport 5.12c
 
70  
Currently the furthest route left at Secret Garden. Tough boulder problem. Grade is estimated. Steepness:

2

Stinky Johnny Sport 5.11a
 
65  
This technical, sustained face climb begins on a boulder left Hippie Lip Balm. Steepness:
Tags
technical-2

3

Hippie Lip Balm Sport 5.9
 
75
This long, mellow, and adventurous slab begins left of a ramp. Aside from a single mantel move it's mostly 5.7. Steepness:

4

Fuzzy Side Up Trad 5.7
 
75  
This is the crack just right of the bolted slab, Hippie Lip Balm. It's possible to traverse over to the anchors on that line to descend. Steepness:

4a

Going Away Party Sport 5.10a
 
60  
Starts on the ledge system 15' right of Fuzzy. Nice spot to watch the sun set. Steepness:

4b

The Net Sport 5.10a
 
55  
20 feet right of Going Away Party. A challenging start leads to edge climbing. Steepness:

5

Heavy Flow Mixed 5.10c
 
60
Begin with a 3 bolts of technical face climbing to reach a fun crack. Steepness:

6

Dirty Little Secret Trad 5.8+
 
50
Begin in the jumbly dihedral to reach the arching finger crack high on the face. Heed the name. Steepness:

6a

Unnamed Crack Trad 5.8+
 
60
Starts in the dihedral left of Barfwidth up on the recessed ledge. Traverse left around the corner to evade a rhodo cluster and finish up the face to the anchor on Dirty Little Secret. Steepness:

7

Barfwidth Trad 5.11b
 
65
The steep overhanging offwidth capped by a roof. Steepness:

8

Cock to the Rock Sport 5.10b
 
70
Begin on a dirt ledge and pull up onto a stepped rock ledge to gain the face. Pull a difficult low move then cruise up the slab passing a trio of shallow huecos. Stick clip the second bolt if you want to be super safe. Steepness:
Tags
crimpy-2 : vertical-3 : sunny-1

9

Red Devil Sport 5.11b
 
85
Another decent slab climb with glue in bolts beginning right of a tree left and around the corner from where the trail meets the wall. Steepness:

10

Linear Regression Sport 5.11a
 
85
This is the first line encountered when you reach the wall on the main trail from the parking area. It begins on a low rock shelf with about 15 feet of precarious climbing on questionable rock. A high first bolt protects this section after which the rock quality and the movement greatly improve for the remainder of the route. Steepness:

11

Feeding Frenzy Mixed 5.11b
 
85
As with Linear Regression, a high and tricky to spot bolt protects the initial 15 feet of questionable rock after which a tricky hand and finger crack awaits. Traverse left at the top before entering the hueco, then clip the last bolt of Linear Regression and continue to the shared chain anchor. Steepness:

12

Gettin' Woolly Sport 5.12a
 
80
Begin just right of a large tree. Mellow face climbing leads to a roof at the fourth bolt where the shit gets real. Take the rest before the last bolt because you will need to dig deep to reach the chains. Steepness:

12a

Nachos, Lemonheads, My Dad's Boat Sport 5.12b
 
75
A hard boulder problem involving several slopey underclings gains the easy plated face just above the first bolt. Gain a good jug rail just below the fourth then tackle the roof while traversing left and up to another good rest. Hard technical climbing on small crimps and underclings leads to the anchors. Steepness:

13

Sloppy Seconds Sport 5.11a
 
80
A tricky and thin lower section leads to a great arete run on big holds. A crux guards the chains where two closely spaced bolts will hopefully keep you off the slab if you blow it. Steepness:

14

Flashback Trad 5.10c
 
80
This gigantic, intimidating crack splits the middle of the wall. Climb the left side of the huge, layered pyramid feature with excellent gear placements throughout. Steepness:

15

Cephalopagus Trad 5.10b
 
80  
Begin on the thin crack and face right of Flashback. Climb the right crack and meet up with Flashback near the top. A large, fallen tree blocks the beginning of this route currently. Steepness:

16

So What? Sport 5.11b
 
65
Step up onto a waist high ledge to begin. Solve a tricky, spicy section between bolts 2 and 3 to reach a nice horizontal slot where another tough move awaits. More technical climbing on edges and knobs leads to the chains. Steepness:

17

Little Wing Sport 5.9
 
60
Just right of a tree is a large, chalked, flat jug marking the start of this fantastic blunt prow. Definitely one of the better lines in its class. Steepness:

18

Bees in the Trap Sport 5.11d
 
80
Begin left of a large crack on a short face that leads to a ledge. Enjoyable plate climbing abruptly ends near the top where the moves get serious. You can't blame this one on the pump. It's recommended to either unclip or put a long draw on the third bolt. Steepness:

19

Swole Up Trad 5.9+
 
80
Dive into the demanding hand to chimney crack right of Bees in the Trap. Leave the Big-Bros behind because a hidden medium cam placement can be found in the chimney section. Steepness:

20

Leech Line Trad 5.10
 
75
Start just right of Swole Up in a grungy crack with marginal pro, then traverse right to a hand crack. Climb the hand crack to reach a tree then shift left and continue up the offwidth to the top. Rappel from a tree to descend. Steepness:

21

Spork Mixed 5.11b
 
70
From the tree on Leech Line head up the slab protected by four bolts. Steepness:

22

Tinkerbell's Panties Trad 5.9
 
55
Begin atop a group of boulders and enjoy straight-in hand jams coupled with a few face moves. Steepness:
Tags
fun-1 : hands-1

23

Where the Dope At? Sport 5.11d
 
50
Great moves on the arete left of a dihedral. Your height, or lack thereof, could break you on this one. Steepness:
Tags
arete-1

23a

Guns 'n Beer Trad 5.8
 
50  
The low angle dihedral. Steepness:

24

You Can't Piss on Hospitality Sport 5.7
 
45
Climb the brown streak, if it's dry, beginning left of a thin seam. Short lived but fun. Steepness:

25

Nilbog Night Life Sport 5.9
 
45
Climb the slab just right of a deep water groove. Steepness:

26

Little T Sport 5.11b
 
50
This marginally featured arete may feel several grades harder for the finesse challenged climbers. Steepness:

27

American Juggalo Sport 5.11b
 
50
Don't be fooled by the name, there are no juggalos here. This line marks the start of several challenging slab climbs and the end of comprehensible route names. Steepness:

28

patriotsquestion911.com Sport 5.11a
 
50
Begins left of a large hueco. A more sustained angle than the bulge laden lines to the right. Steepness:
Tags
adventerous-1

29

ae911truth.org Sport 5.10b
 
60  
Grab a nice, fat, square flake to get to the first bolt then shift right. Play around in a pair of huecos in the middle of the wall after which the angle kicks back a bit. These route names are cuckoo. Steepness:

30

Rethink911.org Sport 5.10b
 
55
Maybe the bolt placements should have been rethought too. Another slab climb with a cuckoo conspiracy theorist name. Steepness:

31

Rememberbuilding7.org Sport 5.10b
 
50  
The furthest route right at this time and thankfully the last route on the wall with propaganda laden names. Begin on an attached rock platform left of a fat, dirty flake. Probably the least best of the lines on this wall. Steepness:

32

No Regrets Sport 5.12b
 
55  
Uber-techy dihedral leads to a burly crux above the roof. Move slightly right to some tiny invisible crimps and lock 'em down. Steepness:

33

Balls to the Wall Sport 5.11b
 
55  
Interesting face climbing just right of seam leads to a rest followed by a delicate crux at the top. Steepness:

34

Geezer Pleaser Sport 5.10a
 
45  
Despite the name, this is one of the best easier routes at Secret Garden. Leftmost route on black-streaked slab wall 100' right of Balls to the Wall. Steepness:

35

Los Two Brothers Sport 5.10b
 
40  
Start from a boulder 15' right and uphill of Geezer, 10' left of a steep dihedral. Steepness:

36

Cornered Trad 5.11a
 
40  
Easily toproped after climbing Los Two Brothers. Needs a bolt at the start to be a reasonable lead. Steepness:

37

Inside Job Sport 5.10a
 
65  
Stick clip a ridiculously high first bolt to access this enjoyable long face just above a cave with some interesting bouldering potential. Steepness:

38

Project Sport Unknown
 
0  
Easy slab starting from a ledge system right of Inside Job. Equipped by Mike Cook. Steepness:

39

Controlled Demolition Sport 5.10b
 
45  
Nice bouldery number on good rock left of the Gardener arete. Steepness:

40

Constant Gardener Sport 5.11c
 
45
Walk 5 minutes right of the 911 Wall on a wide, meandering trail. This will eventually lead to a small gold wall. This route starts left of the obvious large ramp feature. Climb the overhanging pockets to a hueco. Pull around the corner and finish left of the arete. The contravity is high, but so is the fun. Steepness:

41

Meat Hook Sport 5.11b
 
40
The short steep face right of Constant Gardener. Steepness:

Comments

1
Ascentionist said on July 8th, 2014
Censorship!!! Fascists!!!
2
Anonymous said on July 9th, 2014
What happened to all the "Mike Cook is a lunatic" posts? The government must have deleted them! Its a conspiracy!!!!!!
3
Chiyram said on July 24th, 2014
Thank God all that shit is gone. On another note ( the point of comments on here), this is a great crag that's really close to the main parking area. A good amount of quality climbs and couple stiff easier routes.
4
rjackson said on August 17th, 2014
Several lines that haven't made it into the listing yet. Friction line to the right of You Can't Piss... and the arete to the left of Tinkerbelle's... ???
5
dustonian said on August 17th, 2014
The arete "left of Tinkerbell's" must be Where the Dope At, but the crack you were thinking was TP is probably another crack that Matt Smith cleaned up and climbed a few months ago... a 5.8 dihedral left of YCPOH
6
rjackson said on August 18th, 2014
Cool . . . Thanks.
7
Chiyram said on September 29th, 2014
Route descriptions for the truther slabs?
8
Wolf said on October 6th, 2014
Anybody know anything about the bolted friction line to the right of You Can't Piss On Hospitality? It seemed to be 5.9ish and decent.
9
dustonian said on October 6th, 2014
Lightning Strikes Again 5.6+
10
Anonymous said on January 4th, 2015
Does this wall get good sun?
11
dustonian said on January 4th, 2015
yep... various aspects throughout the day
12
Anonymous said on January 5th, 2015
Right side gets morning sun. Left side gets afternoon sun.
13
thermalfissions said on May 26th, 2015
I think the route ordering on the left side of the wall. The route to the left of the 5.7 trad crack is not a sport route, but seems to be a 5.9 mixed route, the route to the right of the crack is a 10c sport route, and to the right of that is either the 11 or 12c project, I didn't get on it to figure out but didn't seem like it had a lot of traffic. Just a heads up.
14
Cromper said on September 23rd, 2015
Route between Gettin' Wolly and Sloppy Seconds is a closed project. Probably 12b or so, should send it next time I get out here. -Scott
15
Chiyram said on May 8th, 2016
What is going on with all the routes between the slabs and Controlled Demolition?
16
dustonian said on May 8th, 2016
L-->R it goes: 12b, 11b, 9, 10c, 11a trad, 10a, closed project, then Controlled Demolition
17
Chiyram said on May 9th, 2016
Thanks!
18
Anonymous said on October 3rd, 2016
what happened to the right side of this wall? Did someone delete all the routes uploaded?
19
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2016
Yeah, where did routes on the far right side of this crag go? Were they found to be on private land or something?
20
Anonymous said on November 15th, 2016
Trail work pending