Minas Tirith

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.9 4 - - 4
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Directions to Minas Tirith

USFS
This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
From the intersection of Forest Service Road 9A with 9B, drive 1.5 miles and park in a large parking area on the right near a concrete dam. This is also the parking area for Muscle Beach. Park in this area and locate the campsite that is on the inside of the left bend in the road. Cross the road to reach this camping area and locate a trail on the left edge of the campsite. Follow the trail uphill until you see a lower band of rock to your right. Keep going until you are within a few hundred feet of the main wall then cut up right through a break in the lower rock band. Continue for 300 feet and look for a large pinnacle on a ridge to your right which is adjacent to the wall.

Wall Sun: Unknown



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Minas Tirith Trad 5.9-
 
80
This line ascends the large pinnacle with many different variations. The most popular line climbs the face along the crack on the east side of the pinnacle to a ledge. From the ledge, traverse right to a belay tree. Walk around to the west side of the pinnacle and climb up an overhanging face or traverse left to an arete to reach the summit. Variation 1 5.10d TR: Climb the face left of the first pitch. Variation 2 5.10a: Climb the face directly above the first pitch. Variation 3 5.4: Locate a crack a few feet right of a chimney on the south face. Climb this crack as the first pitch of the route. FA: Joe Hayden with aid, 1968. FFA: Bob Compton, mid 1970s. Variation 1: Bill Strachan, Robert Stauder, 1995. Variation 2: Tony Bubb, John Ciocci, 1994. Variation 3: Martin Hackworth, 1981. Steepness:

1a

Eight,Seven Central Trad 5.7
 
50  
Walk right from the pinnacle,between a boulder and the wall, around a corner and up a gully to this A shaped chimney with a perfect off width above. Stop at a spacious ledge Steepness:

2

Amazing Journey Trad 5.9+
 
40  
Walk to the main wall which is located 150 feet left of Minas Tirith to locate this and the next route. Locate a large chockstone above a slab. Climb the slab beneath the chockstone for 15 feet to a small roof. Crank right into a thin dihedral, place some protection, then squeeze up through a hole and belay from the top of the large chockstone. Steepness:

3

Going South Trad 5.9-
 
40  
Climb the start of the previous line then undercling and layback up and left to the ledge. Head over to the top of Amazing Journey to lower. Steepness:

Comments

1
The Pirate said on April 13th, 2004
great route!, 1st pitch easy 5.8 2nd pitch is 5.9 Great summit rap off anchors back down to the start of pitch one
2
J-Rock said on November 17th, 2004
Could these climbs also be included in the online guide?
3
Ascentionist said on February 1st, 2006
37.8744N, 83.6601W
4
Anonymous said on October 7th, 2008
5
Sco Bro said on October 8th, 2012
What a great little place. Fun routes, nice views, no tourists.